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Talks 
On 

Successful 
Gowning 



===: BY = 

ELIZABETH LEE 



Copyright 1910, by ELIZABETH LEE 



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CONTENTS 



PAGE 

INTRODUCTION 5 

CHAPTER I— Blondes 11 

CHAPTER II— Brunettes 20 

CHAPTER III— The Between-Color Type 28 

CHAPTER IV— Advice to Stout Women 34 

CHAPTER V— Hints for Dressing the Thin Woman. . 46 

CHAPTER VI— Woman at the Passee Stage 54 

CHAPTER VII~The Gray Haired Woman 59 

CHAPTER VIII— The Middle-Aged Woman 64 

CHAPTER IX— A Chapter on Combining Colors 71 

CHAPTER X— How to Choose a Becoming Hat 80 

CHAPTER XI— A Talk on Corsets 94 

CHAPTER XII— Correct Gowning. . 105 

CHAPTER XIII— A Chapter on Furs 116 

CHAPTER XIV— Veils That Will Prove Becoming. . . 130 

CHAPTER XV— The Jewels I Should Wear 137 

CHAPTER XVI— Hints on Being Photographed 148 

CHAPTER XVII— What Style of CoifFureShalll Adopt 158 

CHAPTER XVIII— Wedding Etiquette 167 

CHAPTER XIX — Dress for The School Girl 183 

CHAPTER XX— Rules for Correct Mourning. 193 



INTRODUCTION. 



£yOOjy dressing, nowadays, as every Avoman 
1^ knows, who is at all interested in clothes 
\M — and all nice women are — is not, by any 
means, a question of mone}^ Some women man- 
age to look well dressed on a distinctly small 
allowance, while others will appear positively 
dowdy even though the expenditure may have 
been three times the amount spent by those 
attractively gowned. 

Clearly then, it must be a proper selection of 
color and design that makes for success in 
feminine dressing, choosing only those that will 
tend to bring out the best points of the wearer, 
or disguise any defects which are known to exist. 

This is easily said, I know, but not all women 
are gifted with an instinct for selecting exactly 
what is suited to them. This does not imply that 
they lack good taste. Not at all. Such persons 
will often most wisely criticize the toilets worn 
by their friends, but Avhen it comes to choosing 
for themselves their confidence is apt to forsake 
them. They know intuitively when anything is 
altogether wrong, but lack the power of being 
able to suggest a remedy. This class of women — 
and it includes the majority let me say — are those 
who suffer most from sartorial errors. Far better 
for their peace of mind were they absolutely 



Introduction. 

ignorant of the laws governing successful dress- 
ing. Fortunately for the world, however, the num- 
ber of the latter type is comparatively small, and 
I am inclined to believe it may be still lessened, 
for every woman certainly wishes to look her best 
and Avhen she does not, it must be because she 
lacks the knoAvledge of hoiv to appear so. 

This cannot be her excuse if she will carefully 
peruse the pages of this book giving special at- 
tention to the chapter or chapters that treat of 
her individual needs as she realizes them. 

What shall I wear that I may appear becom- 
ingly and tastefully gowned is a question that 
confronts every normal woman from girlhood 
to old age. 

Neither is the problem confined to any partic- 
ular class — unless, perhaps, to those very wealthy 
women Avho can afford to place themselves in the 
hands of sartorial artistes, but with them these 
pages have nothing to do. 

Such a woman is in a position to pay people 
to think for her as well as to clothe her. 

There are thousands of women, however, who 
are not placed so fortunately as these daughters 
of wealth, but who desire nevertheless to make 
the most of their physical endowments b}^ being 
attractively gowned. 

This fact is evidenced by the large number of 
letters received by the writer who has for many 
years conducted a Consulting Dressmakers^ 
Bureau through the columns of the newspapers 
throughout the breadth of the land, and the 
following pages have for their actual basis the 

6 



Introduction. 

queries that are daily received by her for intel- 
ligent answering. 

It should be understood at the outset that this 
is not a treatise on fashions but rather a book of 
reference that may be appealed to whenever there 
arises a question on dress which cannot be satis- 
factorily answered. 

Is it a very tempting new shade that a brown- 
haired woman longs to wear but is in doubt as 
to whether it will become her? Then let her con- 
sult the chapter devoted to colors that will suit 
the brunette type. 

Again, should the short stout woman look 
longingly upon a frock she sees displayed upon 
a tall slender figure? I say, before deciding the 
question let her find out by consulting the 
directions for models suited to her own partic- 
ular style whether such a model may be worn by 
her with equal success. 

Perhaps the little countr}^ dressmaker — for it 
should be remembered that this class comprises 
a large number of the inquiring correspondents 
— is puzzled in regard to the design that Mrs. A. 
has chosen for herself, doubtful whether it will 
be a success sartorial ly. 

It will be the easiest way in the world to settle 
the matter if she has such a hand book as this 
within easy reach. She turns at once to the 
page devoted to the styles adapted expressly for 
women of that type to which Mrs. A. belongs and 
if, in her opinion the lady is in error, she will by 
certain devices lead Mrs. A. to change her 
opinion with results gratifying to both. Mrs. A. 



Introduction. 

will be becomingly gowned and the dressmaker's 
artistic knowledge will be exemplified. 

Another question that is often puzzling to +he 
majority of women, especially those who do not 
go out into society a good deal, is "the toilet that 
will suit the occasion." 

An appropriately dressed woman is a well 
dressed woman, and a well dressed woman is a 
happy woman; while on the contrary, there is 
no mortification which can equal that felt when 
she finds herself either over or under dressed. 

Such painful experiences may be entirely 
avoided by referring to the chapter describing 
appropriate costumes suitable for wearing upon 
any designated occasion. 

For the busy woman who employs a dress- 
maker going out by the day this little work will 
be invaluable, saving time certainly and probably 
nerves and temper also. No matter whether 
only one is to be sewn for or a dozen, or whether 
one type or many is to be catered to, all necessary 
information may be obtained and every word 
authoritative. 

Blondes and brunettes may find their be- 
coming colors in the chapters treating the 
question in detail, and those of the between color 
type have been equally well considered. 

Every gray haired woman is by no means an 
old one also, but every gray haired woman will 
do well to consult the chapter devoted to their 
needs, if they would look their best. 

Although the trials of the thin woman are less 
than those of her stout sister still she has minor 

8 



Introduction. 

woes, and hoAV to cure tliem, may be learnt 
from reading the chapter devoted to "Dressing 
the Thin Woman." 

The stout woman will need no urging to read 
I know, for I am one of them myself and so have 
made a special study of the needs of this class. 
In my experience every stout woman who aims 
to be up-to-date is ever on the watch and alert 
for any advice that will be a means to such end. 

Theory has taught me a good deal but the 
knowledge cannot compare with the amount I 
have gained through experimenting to suit in- 
dividual needs. 

Women who are just losing their first youth 
may with profit read the chapter devoted to 
"Passee Women.'' 

Mothers of school girls and indeed the girls 
themselves will be interested in the chapter spe- 
cially written for their benefit. 

The prospective bride will find much that will 
be helpful to her if she will turn to the pages 
which set forth clearly each detail of the wedding 
from beginning to end. 

Perhaps a set of furs is to be bought, or being 
already in possession of them, the owner lacks 
knowledge of their preservation. In either case 
the information gained by reading the "Chapter 
on Furs'' will be worth alone a great deal more 
than the price of the book. 

The same may be said of the pages devoted to 
millinery that shall be becoming to the different 
types. Selecting a hat is always a difficult 

9 



Introduction. 

question, yet help may be found by a glance at 
"Millinery Hints." 

Veils are an expensive item in a woman's 
wardrobe, and much information in regard to 
choice and suitability is given in the chapter 
written on these filmy accessories. 

Perhaps one of the most interesting articles in 
the book to women generally will be the advice 
given to those who contemplate a visit to the 
photographers. 

Others again may like to read about becoming 
coiffures. All these subjects are treated exten- 
sively within these pages. 

There may be much that will be news to women 
in the chapter on Corsets. Anyway, one will be 
quite repaid for reading it. 

Persons who love jewels should certainly see 
what I have to say on the subject. 

Sadly enough, in the time of bereavement 
women are not exempt from considering the 
question of clothes so I conclude my book with a 
lengthy talk on conventional mourning with the 
hope that the task of selecting mourning attire 
may be made a little lighter for those placed in 
this sad position. 

That this volume may be helpful throughout 
to the army of women who are daily wrestling 
with the problem of becoming gowning is the 
sincere wish of 

Yours very sincerely, 

Elizabeth Lee. 



10 



CHAPTER I . 
KLONDES. 

PROBABLY since the world began it has 
been the desire of every normal woman to 
be beautiful or, at least, to appear attract- 
ive in the sight of others, and when nature has not 
been too generous with her gifts, she will, as a 
rule, use every means to augment or enhance such 
charms as she may already possess. 

Instinctively her thoughts turn toward dress, 
feeling that the proper clothing of the body is the 
most important aid in producing the results she 
longs to attain. Without a doubt she is entirely 
right. There is no factor more potent. The 
greatest professional beauty, not always a synon- 
ymous term with natural, certainly studies the 
choice of her toilets with much more care and 
thought than those women supposedly less fa- 
vored by nature. Often her reputation for beauty 
has been gained solely because she has discovered 
exactly the right colors and designs that will 
bring out in the best manner her good points and 
conceal imperfections, for even a reigning beauty 
is not faultless in form and feature. 

She has only by such knowledge managed to 
conceal defects, and thus offered to the world 
perfect beauty — apparently. 

Now this knowledge or intuition as it may be 

11 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

termed, is not possessed by every woman, I know, 
but there is no reason why it may not be attained, 
at least, to the extent of mastering the rules of 
form and color in relation to dress. 

Anyway, a student cannot but be benefited who 
will only make an attempt of the study, and in 
the following pages, I hope to give such detailed 
advice and simple reasoning as to be within the 
power of every woman to understand who will 
take the trouble to read them. Indeed I trust 
the perusal may be rather a pleasure than a task. 

Taking the subject of coloring first. If all the 
women in the world were included in just two 
types, the genuine blonde and the true brunette, 
the question of becoming colors would be a very 
simple one, because the one type would follow 
the laws set forth for their guidance and the 
other the rules relating to their particular 
coloring. 

These types, however, are divided into a 
number of different clashes, each, of course, re- 
quiring a different treatment. This is what 
makes it difficult for a woman whose natural 
coloring differs from the true types to choose 
exactly what will be most becoming to her. She 
probably knows wiiat colors a real brunette or 
a perfect blonde should wear but she also is 
aware that she represents neither type and 
consequently the question of becoming colors 
becomes somewhat of a problem to her. 

Genuine Blonde. 

First, we have the genuine blonde. Her skin 

12 



Blondes. 

is fair, her hair light golden and her cheeks 
tinted with a delicate pink. 

Then there is a blonde of deeper coloring, 
the skin creamy rather than white and the 
faint flush heightened to red, the type often 
spoken of as the ^'strawberry and cream blonde.'' 

Next is the colorless blonde, an entirely op- 
posite type, with pale waxy skin, the eyes 
usually blue, blue-gray or perhaps violet. 

Then there is the blonde of the Titian locks, 
a type that requires a good deal of judgment in 
choosing successful colors for it; the ash blonde 
and the sallow blonde. 

Now it is perfectly obvious that the same 
colors will not suit alike every class of blonde. 
Those that would serve to emphasize the charms 
of the voluptuous blonde would be entirely too 
overpowering if adopted by, say the colorless or 
the ash blonde. Their delicate tints would be 
simply killed by the bright vivid tones the golden 
blonde finds so becoming. General laws and rules 
therefore must be insufficient, so for this reason 
I propose to go largely into detail, treating each 
class separately, and in this way hope to make 
these pages practically valuable. 

The genuine blonde is perhaps the easiest class 
to gown successfully. She is known by her fair 
skin, sometimes waxy but quite healthy looking, 
often transparent, a faint pink tint upon the 
cheeks, ripe lips inclining to scarlet, and hair 
that may vary in shade from pale gold to golden 
brown. Her eyes may be blue, blue-gray, green- 
ish-gray and sometimes violet. This type seldom 

13 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

possess pure gray eyes, though brown is by no 
means unusual. 

The colors that will suit a genuine blonde are 
all shades of blue, including blue-grays, turquoise 
and peacock, a pearl gray, dove and warm grays, 
pale and dark green, very pale pink, cherry color, 
very dark red, mauve, heliotrope, old rose, pale 
yellow (especially good when the hair is sunny), 
lemon, purple, wistaria, very dark brown (but 
not golden brown), also black and white. 

Now and again, a woman of the genuine blonde 
type will possess a slight tinge of green in the 
eyes, and when this is so, true baby or sky blue 
should never be worn, for it will surely destroy 
all the brightness of the eyes and impart a non- 
descript hue that is neither green nor blue. 

She can wear turquoise, because there is a 
touch of green in it. Pale pink too is often ex- 
ceedingly becoming, so that this shade may be to 
this type exactly what pale blue is to the blue- 
eyed blonde. 

The blonde of more vivid coloring must be 
careful in her choice of colors, otherwise she 
is apt to appear over-dressed or common and 
not infrequently loud. 

The hair will be aggressively golden perhaps, 
the lips scarlet and the flush on the cheeks so 
bright as to appear almost unnatural. As a rule, 
this type looks best in an all black toilette, but 
the material selected must be in a dull, soft jet 
(not blue) black. White, too, will be good, but 
in choosing colors those too strong in tone must 
be strictly avoided if the best results are to be 

U 



Blondes. 

attained. The pastel rather than the genuine 
tones should be selected. Faded blues, greens 
and heliotropes are admirable, and so are black, 
very dark brown and dark green. Palest pink 
she can wear — a tint so faint as to suggest a 
reflection only — while a light shade of buff will 
be better than a pure ^^ellow, especially if the 
hair is inclined to be a bright shade of gold. 
Straw color hair and sunny yellow make a 
charming combination, but the colder tones of 
yellow harmonize better when the hair is golden. 
Coming to the red-haired blonde, this type is 
divided into two classes. There is the blue-eyed, 
pink and white type, the hair apparently a fiery 
red; and the blonde of the clear, colorless skin, 
not pale exactly, but a healthy ivory tint, usually 
accompanied by dark eyes, scarlet lips and hair 
more auburn than red, though often the hair will 
be of the same tint as that possessed by the blue- 
eyed blonde. It only seems to be darker because 
it does not suffer by the contrast with the blue 
eyes. The latter type is the easier of the two 
to dress successfully, although both can be most 
attractive looking if only the right colors are 
chosen. As green and the heliotrope shades have 
a tendency to increase the pallor of the skin, it is 
obvious these colors should be avoided by the 
pale, colorless, auburn-haired blonde. At the same 
time these colors in every tone will be extremely 
becoming to the pink and white blonde of this 
type. She will, too, be lovely in pearl and 
dove gray, maize, sunset yellow and apricot 
color. Cream or ivory will be more becoming 

15 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

than pure white, and black with a shiny surface 
will be better than a dull, black material. It 
is, I know, generally believed that the auburn- 
haired blonde can successfully wear golden 
brown and pale blue, yet never was there a 
gTeater mistake. Certain browns, notably 
golden, will surely kill every trace of gold in 
the hair and absolutely lighten the eyes, eye- 
brows and eyelashes. If the eyes are blue, then 
a faded washed-out hue steals into them, while 
the lashes shading them and the brows above 
actually appear straw color. 

In my opinion, yellowish browns and fawn 
shades are really the very worst colors that could 
be chosen by this type, although the genuine 
baby blues are really very little better. They 
act, however, in an opposite direction, and, 
instead of reducing the red tints in the hair, 
dulling the owner into insignificance as do the 
yellow browns, they simply intensify the red, 
bringing out all tJie fiery redness rather than 
the gold in the hair. 

Rich, deep dark browns, as seen in sealskin 
or velvet, she can wear and look extremely 
well in them. By contrast the golden tints in 
the hair will be brought out, the complexion will 
become clear and delicate, while eyebrows and 
eyelashes will actually appear dark. So is not 
the question of becoming colors a most important 
one to this type or, indeed, any type of woman? 
One has only to imagine a red-haired woman 
wearing a pale, yellowish tan-colored coat and 
another one of the same class dressed in a rich, 

16 



Blondes. 

glossy sealskin to be convinced how simply im- 
possible are the yellow browns. 

Colors becoming generally to the blue-eyed, 
auburn-tressed woman are black, milk white, 
gray, pale and dark green, navy blue, peacock 
blue, blue gray, cadet blue, mauve, purple, 
cream, and if the shade is chosen by an artiste, 
then crimson will suit this type. 

Speaking generally, however, all shades of 
either pink or red should be strictly avoided. 

The Sallow Blonde. 

The sallow blonde is most unfortunately 
placed, for very few colors are becoming to her. 
Cream and deep ivory should be chosen in 
preference to pure white, and bright, dark reds, 
as rich cardinal, will have a tendency to whiten 
the skin. \A arm grays relieved with a little 
burnt orange and creamy or ecru lace will have 
the same effect. Yellow and pale orange may 
be selected as colors for evening gowns, relieved 
by creamy lace near the face. Rich red and 
flamingo tones, too, will be very kind; but light- 
tinted laces should not be used in combination. 
The gown should be entirely of one color, light- 
ened by a little well-chosen jewelry, or a bertha 
of fine black thread lace is considered becoming 
to the wearer's age and build. A plump neck 
will be pretty encircled by a slight chain sup- 
porting a pendant, a thin or scrawny throat will 
find the lace drapery more charitable. 

The colorless blonde and the ash blonde are 
often included in the same class. It is true the 

17 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

types resemble each other closely, although it 
will be observed that while the complexion of 
the former is absolutely devoid of color, the ash 
blonde possesses just the faintest flush of pink 
in the cheeks and usually red lips. Her hair, 
too, is less blonde in hue. Some people call it 
drab in fact. 

The ash blonde will look her best in pearly 
white, soft black and dove grays. All strong 
colors must be strictly avoided and only the 
most delicate tones of certain shades be chosen. 
The pastel Avill be more becoming than genuine 
colors. Parma mauve, wistaria, peach, apricot, 
lily leaf green, blue-mauve, pale blue, the palest 
shell pink and reseda are all good, while for 
street wear the ash blonde may select from the 
list of blue-grays, Avarm gray, deep brown, rich 
navy blue, purple, dark heliotrope and dark 
green. 

Strong colors, as red, cardinal, cherry color, 
terra cotta, wine shades and orange should be 
strictly avoided. 

The colorless blonde cannot, however, success- 
fully wear the purple, black or greens, because 
these tones have a tendency to increase the pallor 
of the skin. Gray is a good color for bringing 
out any pink tints that may be lurking there, 
therefore may stand first on the list of colors 
for the colorless blonde. Other shades that may 
follow are white, cream, blue, blue-gray, peach 
color, navy blue, very pale pink, old rose, palest 
mauve tinged with pink, lemon color, golden 
brown, cadet and Alice blues. 

18 



Blondes. 
Sandy Hair. 

Then there is the sandy-haired woman to be 
catered to. Her hair is neither golden nor red; 
her eyebrows and lashes usually light and eyes 
a pale blue or grayish green. 

This type will do well to confine toilets to 
black and white if the best there is in hair and 
complexion are to be brought out. In certain 
colors she will be a nonentity, in others common 
looking. Black and white is her safeguard. Green 
will not be bad if she has a slight flush of pink 
on her cheeks, or red, healthy lips, and the same 
may be said of rich purples and violet. Mauve 
should be approached with caution or the result 
will be decidedly what may be termed wishy- 
Avashy, All black and all creamy white are good, 
but the combination of the two is better. 

When the skin is pale, then the black about 
the face should be either transparent or relieved 
Avith creamy lace. Cream cashmere with touches 
of black or deep rich brown (not golden) will 
be effective, and so will white crepe de chine 
if given a toning of fine black lace. 

When the eyes are grayish green, then green 
is a safe choice, either alone or combined with 
gray. Gray with amethyst trimmings will suit 
this type, as gray crepe relieved with a little 
pansy velvet and amethyst ornaments. An even- 
ing gown of black net with velvet pansies in 
their natural colorings as a decoration will 
transform an insignificant little sandy-haired 
woman into a very *^fair one to look upon.'' 
Regarded upon the whole as a plain type, it can 
by judicious dressing be made a very pretty one. 

19 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTER II. 
BRUNETTES. 

^▼OMING to the brunettes, we liud quite as 
m/ many different classes included in this 
^^ type as there are among the blondes. 

There is the genuine brunette; the creamy 
brunette ; the fair brunette ; the sallow brunette ; 
the brunette whose coloring suggests the deep, 
rich tints of Autumn and the olive-skinned 
brunette. 

The genuine brunette is, of course, the easiest 
type to dress successfully. Her dark eyes, dark 
hair and dark skin form a whole so entirely 
harmonious that there should be no difficulty 
whatever in giving it a proper setting. 

As a rule, a pink flush and red lips accompany 
(he rich, dark skin, and when this is so, it will 
be found that there is quite a long list of colors 
to choose from. 

Women of this type can Avear cream, ivory, 
every shade of yellow, also orange, red, cardinal, 
crimson, Indian red, the flamingo pinkish reds, 
fawn, tan, silver-gray, pale rose and pale coral 
l>ink, pale and dark blue, old rose, the odd, 
reddish shades of terra cotta, ecru, golden brown 
and dark green. 

The last named, however, should not be at- 
tempted if there is an absence of color in cheeks 

20 



Brunettes. 

and lips, or if there is a trace of sallowness in 
the skin, because this color has a tendency to 
increase pallor and also deepen the yellow tint. 

Violet, mauves and greeny-blues are not be- 
coming colors for the brunette generally, and 
should be most strictly avoided by the colorless, 
sallow class of this type. 

Black may be worn by the brunette possessing 
a good complexion, but should always be re- 
lieved with creamy lace near the face. 

For evening wear the genuine brunette, if 
youthful, will look her best in a pale cream or 
ivory-white — never should the dead chalk-white 
be chosen b}^ any chance. Older w^omen of this 
type may select from every existing tone of yel- 
low, pale orange and the reds. The deep reddish 
pink of the watermelon and the wing of the 
flamingo is, too, very often quite becoming. 

For outdoor wear, navy blues, golden browns, 
golden tan, dark red and rich deep emerald 
green are especially good colors. 

The Creamy Brunette. 

Next on the list is the creamy brunette. Her 
skin is usually pale but w^arm looking, differing 
from the colorless blonde in this respect, the hair 
brown or black, and eyes blue, violet or brown. 
As a rule, the lips are red and the skin, though 
always pale, is perfectly clear and smooth. 

When the eyes are dark the creamy brunette 
may choose her colors among the yellows, amber, 
warm gray, relieved with a little pale pink — 
deep red, golden brown, rich golden tan, old 

21 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

rose, pale pinks that possess a trace of yellow, 
as salmon, pale and dark blue, lemon color, 
cream and ivory-white. 

Greens, mauves, violets, pale tans and purples 
should not be worn for the reasons given before. 

The creamy brunette possessing blue, blue- 
gray or violet eyes will appear to advantage in a 
gown of crimson for day wear and poppy-red for 
evening. 

Other colors belonging to this type are gray- 
blue, silver-gray, deep rich blue, golden brown, 
golden tan (but not pale tan, known as natural), 
every shade of old rose and also flame color. 
Pearl gray, too, will be found very kind to this 
type of bininette, deepening any pinky tint that 
may steal into the cheeks and heightening the 
scarlet of the lips most agreeably. 

The Fair Brunette. 

The fair brunette is not by any means a diffi- 
cult type to dress successfully. Her hair is dark, 
of course, though often not as dark really as it 
appears to be. It is simply the result of contrast. 
The hair of the genuine brunette and that of the 
fair brunette may be of exactly the same shade, 
but by reason of the whiteness of the skin of the 
latter the hair will appear to be darker than 
that of the genuine brunette whose coloring is 
less delicate. The eyes of the fair brunette may 
be blue, varying in tone from pale China blue to 
deep sapphire, gray, gray -blue or violet. The 
skin will show a faint, pink flush and lips only 
a shade or two darker in tint. 

22 



Brunettes. 

Warm blues will be the very best color for 
this type. The shades may be light or dark, but 
the rich, deep tones of royal or Chinese blue will 
perhaps be the best possible choice. All shades 
of gray may be worn and will be found especially 
becoming if relieved with a little pale coral pink 
or a delicate yellow, also golden brown, golden 
tans, sulphur, banana, mustard, amber, silver 
and blue-gray. Maize, cream and ivory will suit 
this type, also dark green if the complexion is per- 
fectly free from the slightest trace of sallowness. 
Pale tans may only be worn when the hair is 
very dark and the eyes quite decided in color. 

The fair brunette may add dark red, shell 
pink, blue, white and black to her list of colors 
for evening wear. 

The one point that this type should bear in 
mind is that she cannot successfully wear the 
strong colors that are so becoming to the genuine 
brunette, but only an echo of them, as it were. 
She must remember that overstrong, pronounced 
colors will surely kill the delicate tints of her 
coloring. For instance, while the genuine bru- 
nette may with success wear vivid yellows, the 
fair brunette must select this color in a lesser 
tone, say as found in maize or amber. 

Silver-blue and pearl-gray are a good choice 
when the pink coloring in the face is very faint, 
but should not be worn when color is entirely 
absent, because these tones will be too cold to 
suit this class of fair brunette. 

Black-Haired Brunette. 

Passing on to the black-haired type of bru- 

23 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

nette we find usually a dark-brown skin, with or 
without color in the cheeks. She has, as a rule, 
extremely good teeth and more than oiten 
beautiful eyes. Such eyes as are described as 
large, soft and lustrous. This is a type that 
requires most careful dressing, for by reason of 
her very pronounced coloring, it is difficult to 
plan a toilet that will prove harmonious. Unless 
due attention is given the result is apt to be 
vulgar or, to say the least, very loud looking. 
It is, I know, generally believed that yellow is 
^^the" color for the black-haired brunette. Used 
judiciously there is no objection to the color, but 
black and yellow is seldom a happy combination 
for this type, and one has only to think of the 
stage "villainess" to be convinced of the fact. 
This lady, as a rule, is gowned in black, "re- 
lieved" with vivid yellow. Behind the footlights 
the toilet is quite correct, because it represents 
the character, and is an aid toward emphasizing 
the flashing eyes, the scarlet lips and crimson 
cheeks, but it is entirely too startling for wear 
in private life. In my opinion, this type should 
never wear black unless unavoidable. An entire 
gown of pale amber will be admirable as a means 
of setting off the dark beauty of the wearer. 
There should, however, be no contrasting color 
if the best results are to be attained. Trimmings 
and accessories may be of a darker shade, but 
they must be along the same line of color as the 
gown. 

I once saw a woman of this type most success- 
fully gowned in pale yellow running into orange, 

24 



Brunettes. 

her jewels the topaz set into dull, dead gold, 
and another I call to mind who looked equally 
well in flame color and ornaments of heavy gold 
(no stones). The description sounds a little 
loud perhaps, but in the flesh the toilets har- 
monized perfectly with the almost oriental color- 
ing of the wearers. 

Very pale colors are not at all a happy 
choice, except by way of accessories, linings 
or perhaps trimmings. Warm reddish browns 
and deep golden brown are good, and so are 
rich tans. Deep amber, creamy white and 
yellows are excellent, and to some women of 
Ihis type there is a very pale pink that is very 
becoming. It has a dash of yellow in it. Deep 
old rose is another charming color and may be 
relieved with creamy lace or a little velvet a 
tone or so darker. The claret and cardinal 
shades are also a comparatively safe choice for 
this type, generally speaking. 

The Sallow Brunette. 

The sallow brunette is perhaps the most diffi- 
cult class of the entire type to dress successfully. 
As a rule, the eyes are very fine, and the skin 
smooth, even though it may be quite dark in 
tone. Apart from these features there is actually 
nothing to build upon in the majority of cases. 
Even the lips will appear to be purple rather 
than red. Therefore it will be seen that extra 
care is necessary in selecting a toilet that is to 
be a success. It must be chosen with a view to 
bringing out and emphasizing the few charms 

25 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

that are at command. A very dark old rose will, 
as a rule, prove a good choice, and so will 
the darker tones of terra cotta. Then there 
are dull reds, warm gra^^s touched with a little 
flaminao, yellows that will be sufficiently deep 
in shade to form a contrast with the yellow skin, 
orange, flame color, cream and deep ivory- 
whites, all of which will be more or less becom- 
ing. 

Very deep navy blue trimmed with red and 
relieved with plenty of creamy lace about the 
throat will help to give life to what might be 
termed a practically colorless type; while the 
rich, reddish shades of brown — as chestnut — will 
be equally charitable. 

In recommending black, I do so hesitatingly. 
If worn at all, I think it should be only in a very 
handsome fabric developed into a gown designed 
for evening wear exclusively. Even then the 
build and carriage of the wearer must be duly 
considered. If of a good height and well set 
up, then a gown of rich black velvet or heavy 
satin falling in sweeping folds and topped by a 
deep lace collar in a pure ivory tint will be a 
charming toilet. Few women, however, in my 
opinion, should attempt the black costume. If 
becoming, the woman will look magnificent; if 
not, a positive dowdy, for there is no middle 
course. The result is bound to be a great suc- 
cess or else an utter failure. 

A gown of deep old rose relieved with creamy 
lace about the face is a pretty safe choice to 
make, because the shades supply the warmth 

26 



Brunettes. 

that seems to be always lacking in the sallow 
type. 

Olive Skin. 

The olive-skinned brunette is often classed 
with the sallow brunette. She is, however, an 
entirely distinct type, although the range of 
colors she can choose from is similarly limited. 

She can wear successfully crimson, golden and 
chestnut browns, deep apricot, old rose, deep 
rose-red (not pink), milk-white, ivory, cream, 
yellow, touches of orange, deep -maize, navy blue 
and amber. Colors that should be strictly 
avoided by this type are mauve, purple, green 
and light blues. 

Lastly, there is a type of brunette, though 
seldom seen in this country — the possessor of 
hair in a nut-brown shade, a complexion to 
match, though in much lighter tone, of course, 
and through which glows a rich red, ripe color, 
the lips scarlet. Her eyes may be brown, brown- 
black and sometimes actually black. Her whole 
natural coloring suggests strongly the gypsy 
type. Consequently her toilets should be chosen 
with a view to harmony. Deep rose pink will 
suit her, and so will rose-red, also the colors of 
the nasturtium, crimson, i3ale and deep yellows, 
orange, maize, ivory-white, ecru, dark shades of 
terra cotta, strong reddish browns and deep 
golden tans. 

Deep blues and warm grays may be chosen, 
provided there is neither blue in the gray nor 
purple in the composition of the blue selected. 

27 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTER III. 
THE BETWEEN-COLOR TYPE. 

TN addition to the blonde and the brunette 
there are varieties of both types; that is, 
persons who cannot be described as being 
either dark or fair. These are classed as "be- 
tween colors." 

The hair is usually a pale brown, akin per- 
haps to the hair of the ash blonde, but lacking 
the clear tint found in the tresses of that type. 
When the hair is on this tone and the eyes are 
brown, the colors that suit the fair brunette will 
be apt to be becoming. 

When, however, the hair is inclined toward 
the chestnut-brown, then the choice should be 
made among the colors becoming to the blonde. 
When the eyes are blue, gray or gray-green, 
turquoise will be especially becoming. Peacock, 
too, will be good. Green, both emerald and olive, 
may be worn, also clear lilac and pale lemon. 
Rich chestnut-brown deepening the shade of the 
liair will help to bring out certain lights, but if 
there is a suspicion of sallowness in the com- 
plexion, greens and browns must be approached 
carefully. The green should be relieved with 
the palest shade of shell-pink, while a touch of 
yellow will be a pretty combination with brown. 

Very dark red, also wine color is becoming to 

28 



The Between-Color Type. 

this type, relieved with creamy white, but prefer- 
ably in solid rather than transparent fabrics, 
as, for instance, a dark red serge trimmed with 
cream white cloth (in small quantities of course), 
say collar and deep cuffs, or a cream cashmere 
with dark red velvet trimmings. 

Pale blue will become the blue-eyed, chestnut- 
haired woman (provided the reddish tinge is 
only the least bit evident) for evening wear. 

Gray in dove and pearl shades will be an 
equally happy choice, while for street wear there 
is nothing better than navy blue. 

The woman possessing pale brown hair, if the 
complexion is good, may wear black, white, 
cream, pale pink, pale and dark blue, old rose, 
pale and dark green, mauve, wistaria, golden 
brown, warm grays, wine color, cardinal, and 
purple. 

If, however, there is any tint of green in the 
eyes, then pale pink should be substituted for 
the pale blue. 

Red, too, will be very becoming to this class, 
especially if the complexion is inclined to sallow- 
ness, as reds have the effect of whitening the 
skin. Let the woman who doubts this assertion 
place her hand upon a piece of deep red material 
and witness for herself the change in the tone 
of the skin. So it is when brought into close 
proximity with the face. Of course, a little 
creamy lace will be added about the throat of 
a red dress. Few complexions will be able to 
stand red unrelieved. 

A most important point to be borne in mind 

29 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

by the woman of between colors is that all such 
neutral tones as pale tans, mode, fawn and 
putty color must be religiously avoided if she 
would look her best, and surely every woman 
does. In fact, judging from the tone of my im- 
mense correspondence, I am convinced that 
sartorial errors are those of ignorance rather 
than intention, for all express a desire to look 
well. It is not given to ever}^ woman, of course, 
to know instinctively what becomes her, and 
when she is conscious of this, to her credit be it 
said that she will be willino^ to use everv means 
at her command for finding out. It is indeed 
the positive duty of every woman to look as well 
as she possibly can. 

Styles. 

Next in importance to choosing correct colors 
is the selection of becoming st^-les. The dainty 
little woman of the between color type must not 
overpower her charms with elaborate modes any 
more than she may efface her delicate beauty 
with strong vivid colorings. 

Prettiness rather than style should be her aim, 
such as Avhite muslins and pale colored ribbons, 
dainty frocks and rose wreathed hats, plainly 
made cotton morning frocks, and all the little 
fripperies that go to make up a girl's toilet, such 
as stage aprons with butterfly bows, dainty foot- 
wear, pretty neck furnishings and ribbon belts. 
These she may wear taking care never to overdo 
it either in color or style. Her dress must serve 



The Between-Color Type. 

to emphasize her charms, but not be so strong as 
to overpower them. 

Her coiffure should be simple and girlish look- 
ing, adorned with ribbon or natural flowers only. 
No elaborate ornament or hair arrangement 
should be attempted. All such decorations 
should be left to those two types — the decided 
blonde and the true brunette — who alone can 
carry them well. 

Apart from the pretty woman of ''between 
colors'' there is the decided plain woman of the 
same class. Now it is obvious that she must 
adopt entirely different means in order to bring 
out her best points. The pretty, fluffy muslins, 
dainty ribbons and chiffons are not for her, for, 
if she is wise, she will see that clothes on the 
''pretty, pretty" order will only challenge com- 
parison with her spare charms, and she will 
surely suffer in consequence. 

Neatness should be her keynote, and indeed 
this may be taken as the watchword of every 
woman of the plain class regardless to the type 
to which she belongs. 

In giving advice to the plain woman, I think 
I should mention the coiffure as being of first 
importance. It is not enough to say that it must 
be stylish ; it is actually imperative that it shall 
be neat as w^ell. Stray fluffy locks that look so 
attractive flying around the forehead of a pretty 
Avoman are apt to be regarded as slovenly when 
the possessor is a downright plain one; while a 
tie or ribbon losely knotted at the throat of a 
little beauty suggests only an air of negligee but 

31 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

will be positively untidy looking so worn by a 
plain woman. 

The same with hats. A jaunty looking shape 
set above a piquant face will probably serve to 
enhance its beauty, while the same style worn 
by a plain Avoman would be apt to provoke 
ridicule. 

And now as to the best way of bringing out 
the good points of the plain woman classed in 
the between color type. First, as I said before, 
is the importance of a smart, neat coiffure, and 
next careful attention to grooming. In fact, this 
type of woman cannot pay too much attention 
to every detail of her toilet for she needs all that 
the art of dress and personal attention can do 
for her if she would present an attractive 
appearance. 

It is quite possible for her to do this if she will 
only make a study of color, material and styles. 

Correct colors for this class have already been 
mentioned, but it will be wiser to choose the 
pastel shades rather than the fresh tones. There 
will be a harmonizing and blending of the colors 
with that of the wearer's own coloring that will 
be much more effective than could be produced 
by wearing bright, fresh, vivid colors. 

Materials may be of a rich, substantial nature 
and st^ies may be more elaborate than those 
suggested for the pretty woman of the same type. 

Provided they are becoming, the very latest 
may be worn, and supposing prevailing modes 
are not considered practicable, then they must be 
adopted to suit her. 

"-) 



The Between-Color Type. 

She must, before all, be fashionably dressed^ 
otherwise she stands a great chance of being 
classed as a dowdy. 

The plain woman must aim at style and fashion 
and make up her mind to sacrifice any desires 
for the essentially pretty accessories of the toilet. 
Her neck must be neatly dressed with linen or 
lace collars, prim stiff little bows or an un- 
common looking brooch being used as a finish. 

Handsome belt buckles will become her and 
odd looking bits of jewelry — not exactly showy, 
but conspicuous by their oddity — will help to 
impress beholders with her appearance. 

If she is by reason of her figure likely to look 
well in picturesque styles then there is no reason 
why she may not adopt them, choosing quiet 
subdued colorings but developed into styles 
becoming to that particular type of woman. As 
a rule, such a woman is tall, possibly scrawny, 
but also graceful in manner and carriage. She 
looks well in clinging velvets, rich furs, odd puffy 
sleeves and floppy hats, wrinkled gloves and flow- 
ing veils ; slippers with queer looking buckles, 
and handkerchiefs on a distinct order. 

Her aim should be a successful silhouette, and 
when this is obtained she will by no means suffer 
by comparison with her prettier sister, but as a 
last word she must make quite sure that pictur- 
esque modes are for her, otherwise it will be 
better to follow conventional styles adding scru- 
pulous attention to every detail of the toilet. 



33 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTER IV. 
ADVICE TO STOUT WOMEN. 

CHE very stout woman, who aims to be 
stylishly and fashionably gowned is, I 
know, inclined to think there are no woes 
in all the world equal to her woes, and when she 
is short as well as stout she is inclined to believe 
that her sartorial difficulties are certainly 
doubled. She is not altogether Avrong. The 
woman of adipose tissue has perhaps more cause 
for complaint than any other type when it comes 
to deciding questions relating to the wardrobe. 

In the first place, it is a very rare thing to 
find a stout woman who actually prefers styles 
and colorings that will undoubtedly be best 
suited to her. She is, therefore, often called upon 
to eschew a pretty toilet that she would ^'just 
love" to wear, but which her own good sense tells 
her will not be becoming. This is, in itself, a 
painful experience, and she will sometimes 
wonder after all, whether ignorance is not better 
than knowledge and be inclined to envy the 
perfectly tranquil — or triumphant — air, as the 
case may be, when she meets a woman who has 
evidently chosen her costume to suit her own 
taste rather than with good judgment. There 
is so much satisfaction in wearing clothes we 
like, and we do not always like what is becoming, 

34 



Advice to Stout Women. 

I know, therefore, with such feelings, we cannot 
possibly appear to the best advantage. 

Nothing makes a woman appear so perfectly 
at ease as the feeling of being properly gowned, 
and a stout woman is always more or less in 
doubt as to whether this is so in her case. The 
slender or the tall woman, she reflects, knows 
nothing of these minor woes, all she has to do is 
to please her own fancies and she is successful. 
How different, she thinks, is the stout woman 
situated! Granted, this type has the majority of 
the sartorial troubles, still a very great deal may 
be overcome by judicious dressing. Fat may be 
made to disappear by choosing proper colors, 
breadth may be lessened by selecting correct 
styles, and height may be apparently increased 
by a wise decision in fabrics. 

All women who take an interest in their 
appearance will be always ready to do this, but 
not all know how. I hope, however, in this 
chapter to give such advice as may be helpful to 
those lacking confidence in their own taste, and 
to aid those who feel entirely ignorant of the 
laws governing the relation of dress to the stout 
woman. 

The three main points to be considered by the 
stout woman, be she young or old, middle-aged or 
elderly, are, first color, then design and lastly 
material. 

It is generally believed, I know that all dark 
colors are "retiring," that is, that they have a 
tendency to apparently reduce the size of the 
wearer, and that all light tones are "large'' and 

35 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

act in an opposite direction to dark colors. 
This is true, but only to a certain extent. For 
instance — a golden brown will make the wearer 
look larger than she really is, while an entire 
white toilet will not. It is only fair to say, 
however, that some authorities differ from me in 
regard to the latter assertion. The toilet how- 
ever must be entirely white, from hat to shoes 
if it is to be a success. I know so many stout 
women who would wear white from preference 
but are deterred from doing so by this popular 
(fallacious) opinion. I have one case in mind 
where a woman was only convinced that white 
became her after seeing a photograph of herself 
taken in a white gown. She was most agreeably 
surprised, for she had expected to look like an 
"elephant," she said, and instead appeared act- 
ually a "reasonable" figure. 

White is only unbecoming to stout women 
when it is cut up by contrasting trimmings or ac- 
cessories. For instance, a colored belt should not 
be worn, or even a neck ribbon of color, — no 
matter how dainty. A moderate quantity of 
jewelry is, however, admissible. 

And now, as to the colors stout women can 
wear, I should include cream, white, black, dark 
green, dark red and navy blue as shades for 
entire dresses, the lighter, daintier tones being 
reserved for trimmings or small accessories. 

Such colors, however, as pale pink, pale green, 
mauve or baby blue, as a whole costume will be 
fatal, even if worn by a debutante, be she fat. As 
I have said before white is the only light tone 

36 



Advice to Stout Women. 

that should be attempted when a whole gown is 
in question. 

Having disposed of the becoming colors we 
will take those that are classed as "trying.-^ 
Now gray is one of the ^'largest'' colors known 
(yet how many middle-aged stout matrons adopt 
it?) and others almost as bad are the fawn and 
the champagne shades. These colors should 
therefore be absolutely avoided. Dark plum and 
dull peacock shades will be becoming to the 
average stout figure, always, of course, when such 
colors suit the wearer's color and complexion. 

In clioosing fabrics solid colors are far and away 
the stout woman's choice. Stripes, lengthwise, 
judiciously cut and matched are undoubtedly 
good, and apparently add to the height. In the 
hands of other than a professional dressmaker, 
however, I should be inclined to favor the plain 
cloth, and employ lengthwise trimmings. These 
will suggest height and incidently, give the relief 
necessary to good effect. 

For instance, a gored skirt of a striped 
material is often much improved by the addition 
of self strapping at the seams, but unless this is 
skilfull}^ done, all defects will be doubly glaring 
when the gown is worn by a stout figure. 

Better then, I say, attempt a skirt of a solid 
color. There will be far more chance of success. 

Self stripes are kind to stout women, and 
when a contrasting stripe is chosen at all it 
should be quite narrow and always run up and 
down, never horizontally. 

Straight up and down lines must be rigidly 

37 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

adhered to by the woman of generous proportions 
if she would look her best. Any line or trimming 
going around the figure will tend to cut off the 
height and this is the very thing that must be 
preserved above all others. 

A stout person needs every fraction of her 
height. Another point to be remembered is that 
any line that cuts breadth apparently adds to the 
height. For this reason panels in skirts and 
vests in coats or wraps are found becoming. An 
absence too, of fluttering ends and ribbons, will 
be an aid in reducing the figure, attractive as 
they are, when so worn by a slender person. 

The average stout figure will find the many 
gored skirt fitting the hips smoothly and flaring 
about the feet an excellent model. Lengthwise 
tucks may be indulged in when they are in fash- 
ion, or a little fold about the feet is admissible. 
Another skirt trimming that is often found 
becoming is a little foot frill made quite full. 
This appears to increase the circumference at 
the bottom — thus diminishing the size at the hips 
— without detracting the least bit from the 
length of the skirt, and these are the effects that 
the stout woman should seek. 

When the skirt is to be worn by a woman 
possessing a prominent abdomen it will be a 
great advantage to her if the front gore is cut an 
inch or so longer than the other widths easing 
into the side seams over the abdomen this slight 
additional length. Another "wrinkle" is to raise 
the skirt in centre back, an inch or so when ready 
for the belt. In cutting the back width it should 

38 



Advice to Stout Women. 

be two inches or so longer than the others, and 
joined so that the extra length comes at the 
bottom. The top of the gore is slanted off from 
the centre to the seams while on the lower edge 
the slant begins at the seams and comes away to 
nothing in centre back. 

Box pleats down back and front tend to give 
height so should be adopted when they are in 
vogue. 

Coats in tailore(? style never go out of fashion, 
and there is really no better model for the stout 
woman, if she clioos<^s material and model wisely. 

A semi-fitting coat just defining the figure is 
far and away the best choice. She must, however, 
use discretion in choosing the length. The short, 
stout figure may wear an Eton coat, one ending 
at half length and a full length wrap. Many 
stout women prefer the length ending just at the 
line of the hips. But ^his is a mistake. The edge 
of the coat forms a b*\nd as it were around the 
hips emphasizing and proclaiming their size in 
a most undesirable way. A three quarter length 
is no better because this length cuts off the figure 
a foot or more and the wearer has certainly no 
inches to lose. Coat sleeves are always in good 
style and in regard to trimmings, flat effects 
should be preferred above all others. 

Braid is extremely good, and when the material 
to be trimmed is of a sombre surface, satin is 
effective. 

Dull cloths should be preferred to those show- 
ing a gloss. 

Buttons are to be approached cautiously and 

39 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

not to be used in large quantities especially when 
they contrast in color. It is so easy to bring 
about a patchy effect with buttons. I saw a 
woman recently that looked actually grotesque 
a little distance away because of a number of 
buttons (large ones too) disposed apparently in- 
discriminately over her gown. 

Small buttons in groups of straight lines look 
well, and, of course, a double row set down the 
front of a wrap is always in good taste. 

Perhaps it may be well to say — for, I suppose, 
there are many women who are not aware of the 
fact — that trimming should never be seen unless 
there is a reason for it. It must have a purpose. 

The legitimate use of buttons may be said to 
be for closing, for holding down strapping, as a 
finish for cuffs and for securing a pocket flap. 
Of course, other points may suggest themselves, 
but the above will serve as an example. All 
decoration must have a use as well. It may not 
be real (as false buttonholes), but it must appear 
to be necessary. One cannot place a bow here or 
a rosette there, just as fancy dictates, there must 
be a reason. If home dressmakers would bear this 
in mind, the result of their labors would be apt 
to be more satisfactory than is generally ap- 
parent. 

It is often the injudicious arrangement of 
trimming that stamps a garment as "home made." 
A bit of lace or a bow of ribbon will be added 
perhaps as a means of concealing some defect of 
fit or finish, without stopping to consider whether 
either may or may not destroy the original lines, 

40 



Advice to Stout Women. 

Indeed, I cannot caution the stout woman 
too strongly in regard to the question of trim- 
mings, for next to an unwise choice of material 
there is nothing that can spoil her "tout ensem- 
ble'' so much as a mistake in selecting a trimming 
design. 

Coming to a model for a dress that will suit 
the stout woman, it may be well to say at the 
outset that the entire gown must be of one color. 
This is desirable in the case of all stout figures, 
but is actually imperative where the short stout 
woman is concerned. 

By wearing skirt and waist in different color- 
ings, the height is greatly reduced, because the 
figure is apparently divided into two parts, 
represented by the respective colors. For the 
same reason full figures should wear belts match- 
ing the color of the gown worn. Such an acces- 
sory in a contrasting color not only cuts the 
figure, but it also calls attention to the undue 
size of the waist line. There must be absolutely 
no break whatever of a straight line reaching 
from shoulder to hem if the short, stout woman 
wishes to look every inch of her height. This line 
may be made more pronounced ( if thought neces- 
sary) by running fiat trimming down the entire 
length of the dress. 

Yokes, vests and plastrons are an aid to a 
successful appearance. Shape, however, must be 
considered. When the face is quite round and 
full it is unnecessary to proclaim the fact by 
topping the gown with a round yoke. It will be 
found far more becoming if shaped in a V or 

41 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

small square. Supposing the yoke will be worn 
under a round cushion of a chin, then a square 
may be chosen, but a square jaw may be some- 
what modified if the opening beneath it is in a 
V shape. And so it goes, all the smallest of 
details, yet each and all important. The neck 
should always be cut out both in back and front, 
the latter deeper (slightly) than the former. 
Only a flat trimming should be used as an outline 
or finish. 

In the case of a short waisted figure it will be 
better to give a plastron rather than a yoke effect, 
because a plastron, tapering as it does, and reach- 
ing almost to the waist line gives an impression 
of length. A round yoke cuts the figure; there- 
fore this design should be avoided by all persons 
who are short waisted. 

Another popular belief is that a long waist 
will make a short person look taller, yet never 
was there a greater mistake. A short, stout figure 
has been known to have actually tortured herself 
by wearing a long waisted corset, believing that 
by so doing she was apparently increasing her 
height, while really, her efforts resulted in the 
opposite direction. Given two persons of exactly 
the same height, the one naturally long waisted, 
the other short, and the latter will appear to be 
the taller of the two. Anything that tends to 
shorten the line from the waist to the feet will 
reduce the height. For this reason any trimming 
must be arranged vertically, never horizontally. 

Seams may be covered with a flat trimming, 
but when the hips are exceptionally large, then 

43 



Advice to Stout Women. 

the lines should cease just before the edge of the 
hip is reached and not run up to the waist line. 
The average stout figure can, however, carry the 
lines well fi'oni belt to hem. 

Hats. 

The millinery question is an important one for 
the short, stout woman. 

She must never indulge in large shapes, neither 
must they be at all flat in effect, because both 
have a tendenc}^ to shorten the figure. At the 
same time it is unnecessary to go to the other 
extreme and wear pill boxes or inverted pea nut 
shells on the head. A medium size will be her 
very best choice, medium in everything, medium 
crown, medium brim and trimming in modera- 
tion. 

A smart turban is a good choice for a woman 
of this type. 

The trimming should be upstanding, never flat. 
An all black hat should not be worn except from 
necessity — as when one is in mourning. The 
reason why is, because the hat being black, the 
eye is carried no farther than the face, so that 
the impression received is that the person is only 
as tall as her face. This may be strictly true, 
but dress is to be used as a means of disguising 
any shortcomings of nature, and so by wearing 
a white or a colored hat the eye is carried beyond 
tlie face and the wearer appears to be taller than 
she really is. As height is increased, breadth de- 
creases, therefore anything that aids the former 
should be adopted by stout figures. 

43 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

A black liat trimmed with a color will give 
much the same effect as a colored hat, so that 
the choice in millinery is by no means limited. 
There are many women Avho prefer a black hat 
with a touch of color in it to millinery entirely 
of one tone. 

The tall, stout woman may indulge in a larger 
hat than her short sister, the brim being prefer- 
ably tilted, or bent into curves as considered 
becoming to the wearer. The trimmings, too, 
may be broad as well as high. 

A top knot arrangement on the head of a tall 
stout woman is not a pleasing sight. 

The arrangement of the hair is quite an im- 
portant point to be considered by the stout 
woman, because height can be apparently added 
to or detracted from according as the coiffure has 
been chosen. 

Whenever possible, the hair should be dressed 
on the top of the head, and when this is found 
unbecoming (see chapter on hairdressing), then, 
not dressing it too low, the height may be pre- 
served by adding an upstanding bow or a similar 
hair ornament. 

In summing up advice to the stout w^omau, I 
should say, choose whole gowns from one mate- 
rial, preferring dark colors that show masses of 
shadow, and few lights, as velvet and rich cloth, 
rather than those that reflect light, as satin, very 
bright silks and other glossy surfaced fabrics. 
In the case of models select those that are neither 
too tight nor too loose. A very tight garment 

44 



Advice to Stout Women. 

will only emphasize the measurements of the 
wearer. 

A very large arm smoothly fitted is apt to sug- 
gest a miniature lobster, while were its outlines 
concealed by a sleeve simply defining the arm, 
whether it Avere normal or unduly large would 
not be made apparent. 

This rule will apply to all outer garments. 
Skirts should not cling too tightly, still there is 
no reason why they may not be cut in the pre- 
vailing mode supposing tight skirts happen to 
be in style, provided the lines of the figure are 
followed but not clearly defined. 

While close, tight effects must be strictly 
avoided by the stout woman, it does not mean 
that she may go in the opposite direction and 
adopt loose, flopping effects. To the contrary 
entirely, for they will be no better (probably 
worse) than the styles condemned above. 

A stout, shapeless woman is most unsightly. 
Her aim should be to appear neat, trim and 
smart, leaving fluffy fashions for those who can 
wear them becomingly. 



45 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 



CHAPTER V. 

HINTS FOB DRESSING THE THIN 
WOMAN. 

IT is, of coiirse,a far easier matter to dress a very 
thin woman, even though she be a veritable 
bean pole, than it is to attractively gown 
the stout Avoman, for while it is impossible to 
take away an overplus of flesh, by judicious 
dressing one can apparently add it where it is 
lacking, thus the thin woman's decided ad- 
vantage over her stout sister. 

Still, the thin woman has her trials in matters 
sartorial, too, and this is especially so when she 
is also very short. 

Perhaps the most difficult type to dress suc- 
cessfully is the short, stout woman, but undoubt- 
edly the very thin, short woman ranks next, for 
she requires no end of careful dressing if she 
would be referred to other than as ^'that insig- 
nificant little thing." 

Neither is it all plain sailing for the very tall, 
thin girl, especially she of the flat chested, stoop- 
ing shoulder type, which, alas ! is seen very much 
oftener than tall, thin figures of a good carriage 
and bearing. She too, has her own difficulties in 
the matter of successful gowning, only second to 
those of the very stout woman. 

46 



Hints for Dressing the Thin Woman. 

Just as the stout woman has been advised to 
avoid large designs, bright checks, tartan plaids 
and broad stripes as being a means of apparently 
increasing breadth, so the very thin must avoid 
anything, which, by giving long lines, will ap- 
parently decrease flesh and thus suggest greater 
height. 

Tartans, large designs, flowered organdies and 
all such effects are just the thing for her. She 
may also choose stripes, broad, medium or in 
groups, but they must always run around the 
figure. Materials having a rough surface should 
be preferred to smooth textures, while as to frills, 
flounces and furbelows, the tall, thin girl cannot 
have too many, provided, of course, that they are 
arranged horizontally. 

Skirts may be as full as she pleases or prevail- 
ing modes permit, and may be trimmed at hip, 
knee or around the bottom. Double skirt and 
tunic effects are good and this type of woman 
can seemingly carry any amount of trimming. 

Braiding is a great aid toward the desired end. 
A coat elaborately braided will suggest a plump- 
ness hardly believable until it has been tested 
by wearing the same shape of coat unbraided. 
The smart little jackets and boleros offer a 
splendid field for this decoration, making this 
rather trying model more becoming to the tall 
and thin, for it must be admitted that the very 
short coats have a tendency to make a tall slight 
figure appear to be "all legs,'' and this means 
height, something to be avoided by those of too 
many inches. 

47 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

Materials having rough surfaces will have the 
same effect as braiding, and so should be selected 
in preference to thinner fabrics whenever prac- 
ticable. 

Waists and sleeves should be as loose and fluffy 
as fashion permits. Indeed, this type of woman 
may, if she pleases, depart from fashion's edicts, 
and adopt a style of the picturesque, with the 
greatest success. She it is who will look well in 
large droopy hats, laden with plumes, or tied 
under the chin shepherdess fashion. Odd sleeves 
in picture or historical models will suit her style 
and not appear "odd" at all when she wears 
them, even though they may not be in the fashion. 

Broad collars will become her, also filmy 
fichus, berthas and general flufifiness about the 
shoulders, especially when the wearer is of the 
flat chested, round shouldered type. Clever 
fingers can arrange a drapery of this kind about 
the bust that will entirely disguise any such 
defect and add a charm at the same time. Lace 
ruffles will be a charity to long waists and it goes 
without saying that this type must not wear tight 
fitting sleeves. When close fitting sleeves are in 
fashion then the thinness of the arm can be con- 
cealed by shirrings or tuckings. Puffed sleeves 
are the thin girl's very own, and should be in- 
dulged in whenever fashion permits. Loose, 
picturesque styles in waists will be extremely 
becoming, but all tight effects — as tailor mades 
— must be religiously avoided. 

Coats and wraps built on loose, baggy modes 
should be preferred to those severely tailored, 

48 



Hints for Dressing the Thin Woman. 

while half and three-quarter lengths will be bet- 
ter than either the very short or the full length. 

Big cuffs and patch pockets will be good, also 
wide neck trimmings. A broad, short waistcoat 
will be unobjectionable, but a vest, as it is under- 
stood, will not be an improvement to the thin 
girPs coat. Remember, everything that affects 
vertical lines, as the insertion of a long narrow 
vest, reduces breadth, and consequently em- 
phasizes the height. A contrary and therefore 
becoming arrangement for the front of the coat 
would be the corded loop ornaments. These 
being arranged crosswise, will, as said before, 
cut the height ; the narrow straight vest will only 
increase it. 

In the same way, the waists of gowns should 
be treated in their trimming. 

Round yokes will be becoming, but V's and 
all such pointed effects should be left to the stout 
sister, because these have a tendency to suggest 
length and incident ly to decrease the size of bust 
and shoulders, something the tall thin girl can 
not afford to do. 

Wide girdles and sashes will suit her. Broad 
ribbons and chiffons, loops and fluttering ends 
and all such flipperies, too, are hers. Skirts and 
waists in different colors or materials may be 
indulged in if the wearer pleases. 

Short Thin Girl. 

Taking the short, thin girl next, it is not only 
necessary to give her breadth, but height must be 
suggested as well. As a means her frocks must be 

^9 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

as long as comfort will allow (an inch taken off 
the bottom of the skirt will detract two inches 
apparently from the height of the wearer), and 
the trimming, if any, must be vertical. 

Waist and skirt must be of the same material 
and it will be a decided advantage to the wearer 
if made all in one piece. In the case of a belt 
it should be quite narrow and of the same shade 
as the dress always, if not of the same material. 
The yoke should not be too deep, but it may be 
as broad as the shoulders. This differs from the 
yoke becoming to the short, stout girl. Hers will 
not run as far as the shoulders because she needs 
height only, and this is preserved by the un- 
broken line of material from shoulder to hem. 
The short, thin girl, however, requires breadth 
as well as height, and so, while the broader yoke 
provides this breadth the height is not sacrificed. 
Proportions are evened up as it were. 

The short thin girl is fortunate if she happens to 
be short-waisted, because such a figure can wear 
dainty babyfied modes with most harmonious 
results. She will appear all the taller, too, for this 
feature, and also more feminine. It is not gener- 
ally known that a long waist is a masculine trait, 
yet such is really the case, and no pretty little 
woman wants to suggest mannishness at all but 
desires to appear her own womanly self. In the 
case of the taller or larger woman the effect of 
the long waist is of course less noticeable, but 
no small woman should strive for the lines that 
nature has denied her, believing that by so doing 
she is improving her form, because, — believe me, 

50 



Hints for Dressing the Thin Woman. 

— the short waist will be infinitely more becom- 
ing to her. 

Sleeves may be fussy and sufiiciently full to 
suggest breadth, or the same effect may be 
brought about by a drapery about the bust. 
Girlish looking sailor dresses will suit this type, 
the blouse arranged trimly rather than loosely, 
and the broad sailor collar suggesting a long 
narrow Y in the front. Such lines, it will be 
seen, give breadth and preserve height at the 
same time. A broad collar with rounded ends 
Avould give width certainly but the length from 
chin to feet would have been cut, as it were, and, 
consequently, the figure would be shortened. The 
sharp narrow V suggests no such abrupt break 
but ceases gradually, hence the reason for adopt- 
ing it. 

When it comes to a question of coats, the little 
woman should, by all means, choose either the 
full length or the very short styles. Half length 
may be worn when this number of inches is in 
style, but never by any chance must the three- 
quarter length be attempted. Eton styles and 
hip lengths are good, and the long coat entirely 
enveloping the figure will be an equally happy 
choice. Any trimming must be arranged ver- 
tically, should it appear below the bust. There 
can be no objection to a yoke being simulated 
with braid, or even made from a contrasting 
material, but all trimming coming below this 
yoke must be in up and down lines. 

Hats should be only of medium size. The sailor 
shape trimmed fairly high is a good example of 

51 



/ 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

what will be becoming to this type of woman. 
The width of the brim should be just sufficiently 
wide to suggest breadth and the trimming just 
as high as considered necessary to preserve the 
wearer's height. 

Medium Height. 

The thin girl of medium height is compara- 
tively easy to dress successfully, and few styles 
will be found unbecoming to her. Skirts should 
be plain, rather than elaborately trimmed, but 
Avaists and sleeves may be on a fairly fussy order. 
l\ound yokes both shallow and deep will suit 
her, and belts, girdles, etc., of a medium width 
should be chosen in preference to the wider ones 
becoming to the tall, thin girl, and the narrow 
bands adopted by her shorter sister. Picturesque 
styles in hats may be worn, but the happy 
medium between the large floppy models and the 
unpretentious small hat should be the aim. In 
fact, the thin girl of medium height should select 
her wardrobe from the styles suggested for the 
tall thin and the short thin type, modifying each 
and every article to suit her needs. 

The next question is one in regard to proper 
materials. 

Materials. 

The entire type of thin women should select 
those fabrics having a bright glossy surface, 
as glace silk rather than crepe de chine, satins 
rather than silk foulards, eolienne in preference 

52 



Hints for Dressing the Thin Woman. 

to voile, and bright, shiny-faced mercerized goods 
to those having a dull surface. 

Colors, too, call for discretion in choice. Black 
or dark shades should never be worn unless ab- 
solutely necessary because dark colors will only 
serve to make the wearer appear thinner still. 
White, cream, ivory white, yellow, blue, pink and 
mauve in pale shades may be worn, also red, old 
rose, pale olive, putty color, fawns, bright golden 
brown, gray, flamingo, Japanese blue, turquoise, 
and apple green, choosing, of course, the colors 
becoming to the individual. 

Lastly, the secret of dressing a thin girl of 
medium height is to give breadth, yet without 
detracting one bit from the height. The very 
tall girl should be dressed to give as much an 
appearance of breadth as possible, while the tiny 
woman must aim for both height and breadth. 



53 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 



CHAPTER VI. 
WOMAN AT THE PASSEE STAGE. 

CHERE conies a time — somewhere between 
youth and middle age — when a woman 
discovers that she has reached the passee 
stage. 

It is impossible to state definitely at just what 
age this transition occurs, because all women do 
not "wear" alike. One may retain her good looks 
at the age of forty Avhile another will have faded, 
that is, her charms have become passee — before 
her thirtieth birthday arrives. Whether one 
keeps her youth or becomes prematurely old is 
largely a matter of temperament. Women of a 
bright, cheeiy disposition never seem — to their 
friends at least — ever to grow any older, while 
there are others who have never appeared actu- 
ally young at any time. However, the passee 
period comes to us all alike at some time whether 
Ave are going through life cheerfully or the re- 
verse, and it is only natural that every mother's 
daughter of us should fight it off as long as she 
possibly can. It is not a pleasing thought that 
strikes any of us when the mirror tells us for the 
first time that our youth is fleeing and we see the 
inevitable approach of middle age, especially 
when in heart and feeling Ave are as young as 
ever; and often we become rebellious and look 

54 



Woman at the Passee Stage. 

around for weapons with which to ward off this 
disagreeable enemy. 

Some women make the mistake of adopting a 
more youthful toilet, believing that by this 
method they can deceive themselves and others 
also in believing time has not yet touched them. 
But girlish styles and fresh colors really only 
challenge comparison with faded hair, eyes that 
have lost their lustre and skin no longer fair — 
and — the comparison is decidedly the reverse of 
agreeable. Age cannot be warded off by wearing 
the kind of hats and gowns — so youthful in style 
— that even the wearer herself might have 
shunned when ten years younger. But now, as 
a woman sees the hand of time reaching out and 
actually lightly touching her, she often flies as 
a refuge to juvenile modes and the colorings 
suitable only for those perhaps in their first 
youth. 

Now, be it understood at the outset that be- 
cause fresh colors and youthful fashions are for- 
bidden, only sombre hues may be adopted and up- 
to-date modes passed by. Not at all, for the 
woman who has reached the passee period will 
look her very worst, say in black, or dull, sober 
looking tones. She needs color, but it must be 
in the right shades. Baby blue is, of course, out 
of the question; but there is a pretty soft shade 
of blue known as pastel that will take its place 
and be infinitely more becoming. Pale old rose 
is one of the best colors for the prematurely 
passee woman to adopt, because it is just an 
echo of pale pink, the color of youth. 

55 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

The faded tones of mauve and heliotrope will 
suit the woman who has been very fair in her 
3'outh. Tones of old gold will be better than fresh 
vivid yellow for the dark-haired passee woman, 
and faded or burnt orange should be preferred to 
the genuine shade. Dark red, too, may be at- 
tempted, also deep brown, the latter touched with 
old pink. 

Reseda is the only tone of pale green that 
should be adopted by this type but dark green 
will be becoming if there is pink color in the 
face. 

Popp3'' red will be effective for evening wear, 
also flame color, deep, rich, burnt ivory, soft old 
rose and silver gray. 

Black is one of the most uncharitable tones 
this class can choose, unless perhaps in the case 
of a very stout figure. Even then it must be 
relieved above the bust with cream or ivory. 

Fabrics. 

The choice of fabrics is quite as important as 
the selection of colors. Thin transparent mate- 
rials belonging to youth must be put aside and 
the more substantial cashmeres and supple cloths 
chosen instead. This does not mean that fluffy 
effects should be entirely discarded. On the con- 
trary, frills and furbelows are often very kind 
to the passee woman, but they should be confined 
to the waist of the gown and about the feet. 
Fluttering ribbons will not be in good taste, 
but a handsome sash or a ribbon belt will be 
quite correct. Anything flimsy in character will 

56 



Woman at the Passeb Stage. 

be apt to draw unkind comparisons and so should 
be avoided. 

This, however, does not apply to a chiffon scarf 
or veil. Very often this addition will soften a 
toilet to quite a large extent, but the costume 
otherwise should be trim, neat and substantial, 
a toilet that might be described as a compromise 
between that of the quite youthful matron and 
the woman of middle age. 

Millinery. 

Take millinery as an instance. Instead of 
trimming the hat with pink roses in all the 
dainty fresh coloring of the natural flower choose 
an old rose tint even though such a shade never 
yet grew in a garden. It will harmonize, while 
the true color will only provoke a contrast far 
from charitable. 

Then in regard to the shape of the hat. The 
broad brimmed or the picturesque poke must be 
abandoned now, no matter how becoming it has 
been in the past. 

At the same time there is no necessity for going 
to the other extreme and selecting styles suitable 
to the middle-aged woman. The choice should 
lie between but should always be a modification 
of the latest style, supposing the true shape is 
impossible. 

The same advice will apply to each detail of 
the wardrobe. If a veil with dashing velvet dots 
has been very becoming in the past, then some- 
thing along the same line may be chosen but less 
striking in effect, say a finer mesh or a smaller 

57 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

dot, that will soften the features and not boldly 
proclaim them, and so only aid old Father Time. 

Another most important point that should 
never be lost sight of is the question of a becom- 
ing coiffure. 

Nothing adds to or detracts from a woman's 
age as much as the way she arranges her hair. 
Speaking generally, I should say she should 
adopt the very latest mode, adapting the style to 
suit her own particular mould of features. 

This will be a greater aid toward the preserva- 
tion of youth than girlish effects and probably 
prove kinder than her present coiffure. My ad- 
vice, anyway, is to try it. 



58 



CHAPTER VII. 
THE GRAY HAIRED WOMAN. 

fORTUNATELY the women of to-day have 
begun to realize the beauty of gray hair, 
and very seldom indeed is anything so 
inartistic as dyeing resorted to. Only the posses- 
sor who knows no better will sacrifice her lovely 
gray hair to the hairdresser's art. 

Nature makes no mistakes, and when the deli- 
cate pink or ivory tone of the skin begins to 
change to a deeper tint, then she steps in and 
touches the hair that meets it with silver, soften- 
ing the line between and acting very much in the 
same way as soft white lace does when added to 
the throat or about the wrists. White lightens 
and clears the skin by reflection, and though 
every woman may not be aware why the white is 
worn about the throat, all certainly know that the 
addition is a great improvement to the appear- 
ance, and without thinking why, invariably make 
use of white there. There are very few skins so 
perfect that can afford to dispense with a relief 
of this kind. 

Dark eyes, too, will be apt to appear perfectly 
lifeless and dull when the hair is dyed, while if 
the hair is allowed to remain in its natural pur- 
ity, the eyes will, by contrast, be deepened in 

59 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

tone, and not unseldom actually bright and 
sparkling. 

There are variations of the gray haired type, 
though fewer, of course, than those found among 
tlie blondes and the brunettes. 

There is the iron gray; the gray hair tinged 
with yellow, and the gray hair that has the very 
slightest tint of green in it. 

Lastly there is the most striking type of all — 
the prematurely gray haired woman. 

Iron Gray. 

Complexions vary, of course, quite as much as 
the tones of the hair. The woman possessing iron 
gray locks is usually of the robust type, dark- 
eyed, and the bright color of the cheeks changed 
to a dull red. 

This class requires very careful dressing or 
the result will be a certain coarseness far from 
pleasing. On the other hand, when correct colors 
and styles are chosen, the type of iron gray 
Avomen is, as a rule, a very attractive one in 
middle age. 

Black Avill be a good standby relieved by white, 
and the combination of black and white will be 
next in order on the list of favorable tones. 

Gray is good when the wearer is not unduly 
stout, but lavenders and pale mauves should be 
avoided. Very dark purple may be worn and 
dark green, though a blonde's color, is often 
becoming to the iron gray brunette, provided she 
possesses a good color. 

Navy blue will be kind, but the golden browns, 

60 



The Gray Haired Woman. 

usually beloved by this type, are anything but 
charitable, and the same may be said of some reds. 
Old rose will be one of the best colors in light 
shades that can be chosen, but genuine pale pinks 
and fresh pretty blues should be passed by. 

Green-Gray. 

Taking the gray haired woman whose hair is 
of a greenish tint. 

This is often accompanied by a brownish skin 
and eyes brown or so dark gray as to sometimes 
be mistaken for black. 

I like this type gowned in rich yellows, dark 
reds, amber, deep browns, purple and cream 
white. No cold colors should be included in the 
wardrobe of women in this class. 

She may take the yellowish pinks, as salmon, 
but should avoid the genuine rose pink. Black 
seldom suits her, and when blue is chosen it 
should be in rich, warm tones. Blue-white may 
not be worn, neither should cold yellows, pale 
greens, cold pale blues or grays. 

The warm tones of the purple and yellow found 
in the pansy will be especially becoming, and so 
will creamy white worn with gold ornaments 
set with jade stones as an evening or best after- 
noon toilet. 

Then there is the combination of gray hair, 
clear complexion, with just a slight flush upon 
the cheeks. 

Browns as a rule are not harmonious but gvsij, 
black, green, dark blue, i>urple, sunny yellows, 
faint blush pinks and ivory white will be very 

61 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

becoming to this type. When the complexion is 
clear, but pale, and the eyes blue, gray or blue- 
gray, and the hair silvery white, then creamy 
white and transparent black will be the best pos- 
sible choice. When a solid black is desired, the 
rich sheens of velvet or the shiny surface of hand- 
some silk will be better than the dull effects found 
in serge and similar fabrics. 

When the hair is slightly tinged with yellow 
instead of silver, pale blue in pastel shades may 
be freely indulged in. The genuine baby blues 
are really only becoming to fresh youthful faces, 
and should be avoided by every type of woman 
who is past her first youth. 

Premature Gray Hair. 

Picturesque is the word that best describes 
the prematurely gray-haired woman. Her com- 
plexion will be fresh, pinky and healthy looking. 

While she may choose almost any toilet and 
not suffer, still by giving due attention to the 
question of gowning she may become a most strik- 
ing figure. 

She should wear black and white in combina- 
tion, with just a touch of some delicate color in 
the right shade and the correct proportions. 
This is a safe rule to follow whether the eyes are 
dark or light. Black relieved with pale rose ac- 
cessories will be lovely for tlie brown-eyed gray- 
haired woman. Pale blue and pastel mauve will 
have the same effect when the eyes are blue, gray 
or violet. Soft reseda is often becoming and she 
will be a picture in a white frock trimmed with 

G2 



The Geay Haired Woman. 

blue ribbons and a dainty hat wreathed with 
blush roses and knots of black velvet. 

This costume, however, is only for the pre- 
maturely gray-haired woman, not for her whose 
youth has fled. 

Quite old ladies whose locks are silvered may 
wear any shade of gray, unless unduly stout, 
when black will be a better choice. White is 
always becoming when in ivory and creamy tints, 
and other colors suiting this type are the helio- 
trope tones and violet. 

A little black thread lace worn on the head or 
about the throat is ever a delightful contrast 
with silver hair. 



63 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTER VIII. 
THE MIDDLE-AGED WOMAN. 

CHE passee period, long or short as the case 
may be, steadily but surely brings a 
woman into middle age, whether she will 
or no, and when this time arrives, the very best 
thing to do is to frankly acknowledge its arrival 
and prepare to meet it cheerfully. 

Fortunately, the days have vanished long ago 
when the fact that because a woman had reached 
middle age it also implied that she must eschew 
all the attractions of pretty toilets and be quite 
content to delegate all those dainty fripperies so 
dear to her heart in the past to the adornment of 
her growing daughters. 

Indeed, nowadays, many a woman of fifty 
will present a more attractive appearance than 
her daughter half her years, especially when she 
is sufficiently wise to choose what becomes her 
rather than prevailing modes, when she feels 
these may be detrimental to her. 

Of course, new styles may, as likely as not, be 
found becoming, but when she finds they should 
be passed by she must do so resolutely, without 
any demur wliatever because she needs all the 
charm of correct lines and becoming colors to 
preserve to some extent her passing youth. 

Of course, it goes without saying that she must 

04 



The Middle-Ageb Woman* 

be well-groomed, and perhaps the most important 
point lies in dressing her hair. No woman of 
middle age can be a genuine success sartorially, 
no matter how handsome her costume, unless she 
has chosen a smart coiffure. Style, not pretti- 
ness, should be her aim from the tip of the 
jaunty quill in her hat to the lacings of her 
dainty shoes, paying most scrupulous attention 
to each detail of the toilet throughout. 

Extremely youthful models will be really more 
fatal to her than dowdy ones, so should be relig- 
iously avoided, and while types of elderly women 
vary exactly as do those of youth, thus requiring 
different modes, this rule will apply to all women, 
no matter how classed. In fact, the thin, 
scrawny woman aping juvenile styles is perhaps 
a more grotesque sight than her sister of more 
generous charms. 

The Plump Type. 

Take the plump, fair and florid type, nothing 
will become her so well as a gown of dull, soft 
black, relieved about the face as far as the bust 
with a yoke of ivory lace, transparent or lined 
with a dainty color. Bright glossy surfaces it 
will be well to avoid. Satin is positively fatal 
to the stout woman, except, of course, by way of 
trimming perhaps, but a plump figure moulded 
into a satin waist will look very much larger 
than she actually is, and certainly this is not to 
be desired. 

There are some women, notably those of sallow 
or colorless skin, to whom a certain amount of 

65 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

lustre is quite necessary. When this is so, she 
should choose fabrics having a deep as well as 
glossy surface, as broadcloth, or velvet, the 
satiny weaves of soft silk and crepe cloths. These 
absorb light while satins and stiff silks act in an 
opposite Avay reflecting the lights, and conse- 
quently, apparently increase the size of the 
wearer. 

Colors, too, must be carefully studied. The 
baby blues so becoming to her in her youth must 
now give place to the faded pastel shades if 
harmony is to be the result. Mauve she may 
wear if fair, or if dark hair has become white, 
then dull old rose will be substituted for the 
dainty pink ribbons of yore. Indeed, youthful 
colors or materials must at all times be chosen 
with caution in the toilet of the elderly woman. 
A piping or lining of some bright, pretty shade is, 
of course, entirely unobjectionable and will often 
be an improvement, but it must be remembered 
that a little goes a very long way. 

Black unrelieved should not be worn from 
choice, yet many elderly women and some of 
those who have only reached middle age seem 
to regard the wearing of black as actually neces- 
sary. 

This is entirely a mistake, for black is only 
becoming to fresh, youthful faces, rosy cheeks 
and golden hair. Colors are far more kind to 
elderly women, but, as has been said before, 
bright, vivid shades should not be chosen, for 
the contrast these afford would be even more 
cruel than black, but, given the tones that will 

66 



The Middle- Aged Woman. 

harmonize with skin no longer dainty pink and 
eyes that have lost much of their brightness the 
transformation will be astonishing. 

There is the highly colored, dark middle-aged 
woman who has not lost completely the opulent 
tints of her youth, but the pink of the cheeks has 
given place to a duller, deeper red; the large, 
dark eyes, though still retaining their brightness 
perhaps, — but now giving an impression of bead- 
iness, — the beautiful black, wavy hair, once so 
glossy, is now seen in a dull, black hue that is 
much more trying than a sprinkling of gray. 

Indeed, gray hair is often the salvation of the 
woman with vivid coloring, for it provides just 
the soft, refining influence that this type usually 
needs. 

Her very best choice will lie in a black and 
white toilet. Well chosen, there is nothing more 
stylish than an entire costume in black and white. 

It is one of the combinations that can be strik- 
ing without being either conspicuous or startling. 
Navy blue comes next on the list of good colors. 
Very dark red will be more becoming than may 
perhaps be imagined, while gray and golden 
brown may be worn, provided the wearer is only 
of average stoutness. Gray and brown are both 
known as "large colors," that is, they apparently 
increase the size of the wearer. Women of this 
class, however, are, as a rule, of full figure or 
inclined to embonpoint, therefore the toilet 
should be chosen with a view to toning down or 
diminishing the coloring, and so bring the figure 
into less prominence. 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

Thus it will be seen that gray and brown 
should be approached with caution. 

Very dark green is often becoming to this type, 
even though it may not have been included in the 
list of colors worn in youth. 

A costume entirely white will suit every type 
of middle-aged woman, whether she be stout or 
thin, tall or short, fair or dark. 

Those of slight build may add a touch of color 
by way of accessory, but the average or stout 
figure will do well to avoid even this relief. 
Black is, of course, the very best choice for the 
unduly stout figure and if white is introduced 
will be found quite becoming. 

Planning a street toilet for the stout middle- 
aged woman, I should suggest a black and white 
pin-striped tailored suit, the skirt walking length 
in a model following as nearly as possible the 
prevailing style, the coat semifitting not longer 
than half length, displaying a smart little waist- 
coat of white broadcloth, the collar and cuffs 
faced with black silk. 

A stylish turban of white cloth trimmed with 
black wings and a becoming veil Avill complete 
the costume. Her gloves may be white, black or 
gray, as she prefers. 

The blonde type of this class may choose all 
black for her toilet, relieved by a waistcoat of 
pastel mauve. Her hat will be larger, too, than 
that worn by tlie stout brunette, and may be 
trimmed with feathers or wings matching the 
shade of the vest. A bunch of violets resting on 
the hair will often bring pretty tints into it by 

68 



The Middle-Aged Woman. 

contrast with the modest color. A faded blonde 
will sometimes imagine she has produced this 
desirable effect when she places a "touch'' of 
fresh baby blue in her hair. She is altogether 
mistaken. The hair actually suffers by such a 
contrast. 

Taking the average figure or those quite slight, 
gray, old rose, reseda, gobelin blue, heliotrope, 
wine red, golden brown, and soft tans, according 
as the genuine shades of these colors have been 
found becoming in youth may be worn by women 
past middle age. 

Between Color. 

The between color woman is perhaps the most 
fortunate of all types at the middle age stage. 
She has had less to lose than either the brunette 
or the blonde and so she does not show her years. 
She "wears" well as the saying is. Possibly she 
has missed being pretty in her youth, but she 
certainly has the advantage over her handsomer 
sisters when it comes to a question of middle age. 

Materials. 

The choice of materials is only secondary in 
importance to that of selecting becoming colors. 
Flimsy muslins and dainty ribbons are not for 
the woman past her first youth. At the same 
time while a sensible, middle-aged woman will of 
course, refuse an organdy frock trimmed with 
baby blue ribbons, her same good judgment 
prompts the selection of a lingerie gown of 
batiste or linen and handsome embroidery, pos- 
sibly touched up with threadings of narrow 

69 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

velvet in turquoise or lily leaf green, because she 
knows such a gown will harmonize with her age 
and bearing. A frock of printed rosebud chiffon 
she will pass by, and will select instead a plain 
chiffon showing a handsome flowered border. 
Not the less pretty than the rosebud but in- 
finitely more appropriate is the more important 
design to her needs, therefore, so gowned she 
cannot fail to be attractive. 

Velvet is always becoming to middle-aged and 
elderly women, and cashmeres, broadcloths, silks, 
soft satins and voile may be included in the same 
list. 

Net, handsomely trimmed, is suitable for eve- 
ning wear, but lace is better. 

Fluttering, fluffy ribbons will be rejected but 
girdles of jet or satin will be in good taste as 
accessories. 

Gloves will fit smoothly but easily ; a fat hand 
cramped into a glove too small is not a pretty 
sight, and the elderly woman Avill be most partic- 
ular as to her choice of neck wear. 



70 



CHAPTER IX. 
A CHAPTER ON COMBINING COLORS. 

CHE combination of color in dress is the most 
characteristic mark of good or bad taste a 
woman can display. 

Of course it is not given to every woman to know 
how to combine colors artistically, for a true eye 
for colors is inborn and cannot be acquired, but 
there are many women who know instinctively, 
as it were, that there is something not quite right 
when the wrong colors meet, yet lack the power 
to say exactly where the fault lies, while there 
are others, — judging from the exhibitions to be 
met with every day — whose idea of harmony in 
colors is almost wholly absent. 

It is possible to gain sufficient knowledge of 
the general principles of color combination to 
prevent any woman possessed of any taste at all 
from making any very grievous errors in this 
respect which principles I hope to be able to 
simplif}^ in such a manner that may be under- 
stood by all who care to read. 

It is not necessary to go into all the laws of 
colors, describing in detail the why and the 
wherefore, though a few words on the subject are 
considered necessary. 

That there are only three colors — blue, red 
and yellow, is very generally known, of course, 

n 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

These are termed primary or first colors, all 
others are secondaries, that is, colors that are 
made up by combining the primaries, modifying 
the depth of color by the addition of white or in- 
tensifying it by using black. For instance, green 
is a mixture of blue and yellow. Red and yellow 
produce orange, while violet is red mixed with 
blue. The six colors, blue, green, yellow, orange, 
red and violet are included in the expression 
^^all colors of the rainbow." If all these colors in 
their pure state were mixed together the result 
would be white. 

Color is determined by the absorption or re- 
flection of rays of light by the different objects. 
The reason given for a flower being white, as a 
lily or a pure white rose is that it reflects all the 
rays but absorbs none. A red rose reflects the red 
rays and absorbs the blue and yellow rays. 
Black absorbs all the light, reflecting none. 

The law of contrast is very simple after all. 
The color with which any other color contrasts 
is called its complementary. Blue is the com- 
plementary of orange, red bears the same relation 
to green, and yellow is the complementary of 
violet, a mixture of blue and red, thus bringing 
the three primary colors into combination. 

In addition to contrast of color there is con- 
trast of tone, a fact not so generally known. In 
placing two tones of one color, say gray, together, 
the one light and the other dark, the dark shade 
will appear darker and the light shade lighter, 
than when the tones are viewed separately. For 
this reason a sample should always be taken 

72 



A Chapter on Combining Colors. 

when goods of a lighter or darker shade are re- 
quired for trimming, as it is impossible to tell 
the exact effect unless both tones are seen 
together. I have seen an entire suit spoiled, 
artistically speaking, because the braid forming 
the trimming was entirely too light. At a short 
distance the effect was of so much tape being 
used practically for tying up a huge bundle, 
seeing that the wearer of the suit so trimmed was 
standing perfectly still at the time. The strap- 
ping was not only too light but it was too narrow 
as well. At the same time had the shades been 
more proportionate the width would have been 
quite immaterial. It was the selected shade that 
gave the narrow effect, the contrast between 
cloth and trimming being too strong. 

These details may seem to be most trifling, but 
believe me, they are of the utmost importance if 
a woman would wish to give the impression of 
possessing artistic or correct taste. 

Another point to be remembered is that colors 
are modified by gloss. For instance, take the 
case of a dull suede slipper and the surface of a 
bright satin both in exactly the same shade. 
When placed together it will be seen that the 
satin will appear to be lighter than the suede by 
reason of the reflection of light. Suede, being 
dull, absorbs the light. 

Therefore is it not important that when mate- 
rials of contrasting tones are to be combined that 
samples should first be compared before purchas- 
ing? By doing so, much disappointment may be 
saved. 

73 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

When the entire costume is fashioned from one 
shade there is much less chance of offending the 
artistic eye and the problem of dressing taste- 
fully is comparatively an easy one. 

Not so, however, when color runs riot, and 
these oftentimes in the most difficult shades and 
tones. 

Some years ago the process of contrasting 
colors was not nearly as difficult as it is to-day, 
because then blue was really blue, running from 
light to dark, gray was gray and the same may be 
said of all the other colors, but nowadays there 
are the oddest looking greens, bluish violets, gray 
that includes elephant's hide, London smoke and 
taupe, browns that may mean any tone from 
natural to deep seal until it becomes more than 
a puzzle to, name them correctly. 

Violet and blue are the most difficult to com- 
bine successfully, because yellow, the complemen- 
tary of violet (composed of red and blue) is 
absent, still it can be done if only the right tones 
are chosen. Pale pastel blue combined with a 
bluish violet instantly takes on a tinge of green, 
not bad in effect if used in very small quantities. 

Pure violet and pale blue simpl^^ kill each 
other. A deep shade of prune and pale blue go 
well together and so will a light blue and a 
reddish purple. 

Blue and yellow harmonize. By this I do not 
mean that the shades may be chosen haphazard 
or that it is unnecessary to consider the propor- 
tions of each color, because both are important 
m color combination. 

u 



A Chapter on Combining Colors. 

For instance — navy blue cloth touched up with 
gold braid is delightful or a pale banana shade 
used for facings on the collar and cuffs of a salt 
in nav}^ blue. At the same time one can imagine 
the grotesque effect of the two colors being used 
in equal proportion or a pale yellow suit with 
navy blue trimmings disposed over it. 

There are times however when the yellow may 
predominate. For instance a yellow or golden 
straw hat trimmed with blue ribbons will be pret- 
tier than a dark blue hat decorated with yellow 
ribbons. Flowers, on account of being less dense 
than ribbons are not so difficult to deal with. A 
navy straw hat may be trimmed with buttercups 
and a yellow straw with corn flowers with equally 
good effect, so that while it will be seen that 
while two colors Avill combine well, it is necessary 
to use discretion as to proportions and also pay 
due regard to the lights and shades of the mate- 
rial in question. A like rule will apply to that 
girlish combination pale pink and pale blue. The 
blue must predominate in this case. Pink ribbons 
may flutter over a blue dress, but blue ribbons 
garnishing a pink frock will be horrible. If this 
is doubted just imagine holding a blue rose to a 
pink sky, or a pale pink hat wreathed with forget- 
me-nots. The combination is impossible, but a 
pink rose contrasted with a blue sky and a pale 
blue hat wreathed with pink roses or buds will 
be charming. This demonstrates the laAV of pro- 
portion. Not every woman understands this 
perfectly, and after seeing two colors which she 
very much admires, blended correctly, copies it 

75 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

in her own way — without perhaps taking any 
particular notice of the proportions — with disas- 
trous results. She has used the same colors, she 
argues to herself, but the effect is entirely 
different to the combination she has so much 
admired and this she cannot understand. 

Navy blue and dark red always go wxll 
together, but only the slightest sense of color 
combination will convey the impression that the 
blue must dominate. 

The blue dress must be trimmed with the red, 
and not a red dress be decorated with blue. Here 
again is an example of the proper proportion of 
color. 

Tones. 

Tones too must be selected with caution. The 
blue placed in contact with red loses the slightly 
violet tinge seen in indigo blues and becomes 
pure blue, while the red will become more vivid. 

For this reason I again repeat do not purchase 
trimmings unless a sample of the goods to be 
trimmed is on hand. What seems to be a very 
dark red in the store may be three times lighter 
when placed on the blue. Hence, a second word 
of caution. 

In addition to the true colors there is an 
infinite variety of tints formed by combining 
certain proportions of these colors. These are 
known as broken shades, of which olive green 
is an example. This is true green mixed with a 
tiny atom of yellow. Olive goes especially well 
with copper color, which is really green tinged 

76 



A Chapter on Combining Colors. 

with red. Soft old rose combines well with this 
shade of green and so does shell and coral pink. 

Tan, which is produced by mixing black and 
orange together, is effective when trimming any 
shade of blue. 

A green slightly tinged with yellow harmonizes 
with the pale purple, mauve and heliotrope 
shades, also with rose pinks. 

Dark green and dark red may be used together, 
and when the right tones and proportions are 
used pale blue and dark green is an artistic 
combination. 

Heliotrope and the pale straw shades harmo- 
nize. A true rose pink is red mixed with white 
and just a dash of violet, and nothing is more 
successful in trimming soft gray than this shade 
of rose pink. Yellow too, from lemon to burnt 
orange is especially effective used in small quan- 
tities upon gray. 

A pale gray frock trimmed with pale rose pink 
or pale lemon and coffee or deep ecru lace is a 
charming combination. 

Brown which is a mixture of red, yellow and 
black, the proportions varying according to the 
shade it is desired to produce, look well with 
tones of blue and green. The genuine colors of 
these two hues will, however, not always be suc- 
cessful, and when one is in doubt the broken 
colors should be experimented with. 

A good rule to remember is that when the 
colors do not go well together separate them with 
white. Most people have an idea that every effect 
that appears in doubtful taste may be toned 

77 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

down with black. This is a mistake. Black 
lowers the tones certainly when placed in contact 
with the colors, but it becomes dull in itself 
besides imparting a certain amount of dulness to 
the colors. White, on the contrary, takes on a 
tinge of the colors, it seeks to modify, making 
harmony rather than contrast, and with most 
artistic results. 

Another point it would be well to bear in mind 
in connection with color combinations is that 
quite often two colors will require a medium in 
order to make them agree perfectly. We have all 
of us seen colors that quarrel with each other at 
some time or another, and the reason is often for 
lack of a medium. The two colors cannot perhaps 
be said to go badly together but the contrast is too 
strong, they do not blend or melt into each other 
as they should do. An example of this may be 
seen sometimes in the matter of a yoke set into a 
waist. 

Supposing the material is a plaid or a figured 
goods and the 3^oke is of lace or a similar trans- 
parent nature, the two brought together will not 
be pleasing, but "connected" or "separated'^ by a 
proper medium, the effect is entirely changed. 
The medium chosen may harmonize or it may 
contrast, but it will be of a solid color. Say the 
gown is in greens, then the outline to the yoke 
may be black or any color that contrasts with 
green, or again, harmony will be the result if a 
shade of green is used. When the gown is of a 
solid hue then the medium employed will be of 
a figured nature. 



A Chapter on Combining Colors. 

Velvet softens all that it comes in contact with 
and one can seldom go wrong in making use of it. 

Black and white is always a safe combination, 
but if the solid black and the solid white can be 
separated, say with a black and white check or 
a stripe, the effect will be far more artistic, 
because the contrast will be less strong. 

It is, I know, generally put forth by color 
artists that women should study nature in regard 
to acquiring a color sense that may be helpful 
to them in choosing their costumes. This may 
be very well for those persons who possess a 
knowledge of the law of color contrasts and pro- 
portions, but I cannot think it is a safe rule to 
follow in the case of all women alike. One may, 
however, study the shades found combined in 
nature with much profit to themselves. For in- 
stance: They might notice the shade of green 
that forms the foliage of the rose and how it 
differs in the tone from the delicate green of the 
wild blue hyacinth. This will give an idea of the 
proper shades of green which will combine with 
pink, red and blue. 

Autumn tints are a lesson in color in them- 
selves, the variety is so great, and by close ob- 
servation of the fading leaves one can often find 
out what tint of green will harmonize with the 
copper colors and which shade of brown goes 
best with the pale yellow or maize tints seen in 
dying leaves. 



79 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTER X. 
HOW TO CHOOSE A BECOMING HAT. 

#ThOOSING a hat is by no means the joke the 
m/ comic papers represent it to be around 
^^ Easter tide. Indeed, to the majority of 
women it is a decidedly serious matter, and one 
that causes more anxiety perhaps than any other 
detail of the wardrobe, for, as every women knows 
who has studied effects in dress at all, it is the 
hat that makes or mars the toilet. 

We may make all kinds of plans beforehand, 
finally deciding that the hat shall be pretty, of 
course, but it must be practical and sensible as 
well. 

So armed with perfect confidence in our powers 
to resist sartorial temptations, we sally forth to 
buy ; but, alas ! such resolutions are apt to gradu- 
ally but surely vanish once we enter the portals 
of the seductive shops and find ourselves in the 
hands of the subtle saleswoman. 

Every time a new hat is to be bought new 
resolutions are made and as regularly broken, 
often to our lasting sorrow, for, with many of 
us a second purchase is out of the question, and 
so the disappointment has simply to be borne 
literally and mentally. 

Each season increases the demand upon strong 
resolutions and sober judgment, so fascinating 

80 



How TO Choose a Becoming Hat. 

are the confections that make their appearance, 
and it requires great force of character to pass 
by the lovely creations, even though we know in 
our heart of hearts that we could have really no 
practical use for such a piece of headwear. 

While most women are sufficiently versed in 
what is becoming to avoid eccentric modes; as 
a rule her tastes lie in an opposite direction as 
to what will suit her. Take the pert little turban, 
for instance. Worn by a girlish figure with a 
slender face and delicate features, the hair fluffed 
youthfully about the face, the effect is as winsome 
as possible, but how seldom she can be brought 
to think so! Her yearnings, speaking generally, 
are for the enormous black hat, in which she 
looks half buried, and which actually deprives 
her of her much needed height. 

The same i3erverse fate fills the Avoman who is 
more than decidedly inclined to embonpoint with 
an insatiable desire to don a decorated pill box. 
It must be so, or why do we see such exhibitions 
every day of our lives? 

I verily believe that the majority of women are 
possessed with desires for totally unbecoming 
styles and that it requires more strength of mind 
to resist such temptations than to withstand any 
other force, and that, when a woman is truly 
becomingly dressed, it is either by accident or 
strong will-power. 

I wonder whether it will be of any use at all to 
lay down certain rules and laws relating to millin- 
ery. This is not said with the feeling that women 
would refuse to follow them. Not at all. The 

81 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

question is, will not rules be scattered to the four 
winds just as soon as a pretty hat is in sight? 

I am afraid so, still, I offer a few general sug- 
gestions which may be listened to in saner 
moments if not at the psychological one. 

Shape. 

First. In buying a shape the height, build, 
age and general appearance of the wearer must 
be fully considered. Of course, youthful faces 
will be much easier to suit than those that have 
reached maturity; still, even youthful charms 
may be enhanced by the wise selection of mil- 
linery. 

Girls who are short must bear in mind that 
a wide brim will cut their height, and so, need- 
less to say, should avoid anything broader than 
the conventional sailor. 

In the same measure as a wide brim detracts 
from the height so a high crown will apparently 
increase it. This, however, when the crown tapers 
toward the top, not the large so-called bell or the 
equally large, square crown. These will only 
give her the appearance of top heaviness, and so 
destroy balance. 

A brim that is broken in outline is kinder to 
a short woman than a brim that is perfectly 
straight all around for obvious reasons. It is 
impossible to say just where this break shall 
appear. The woman with ever such a suspicion 
of snub nose will certainly not call attention to 
the fact by wearing a hat that flares upward 
above that feature. If she has a piquant face 

82 



How TO Choose a Becoming Hat. 

she will choose a demure-looking poke, while a 
saucy face will become the hat that flares de- 
cidedly at the side, not the front. Mushroom 
shapes are becoming to the nose retrousse type, 
but when the owner is short, this drooping brim 
is apt to be rather trying. When it is attempted 
at all, then both crown and trimming should be 
as high as is consistent with present fashions. 

The lines of the hat should be made to disguise 
imperfections of feature, and bring into prom- 
inence the best points of the face. 

Types of Faces. 

There are round faces, wedge-shaped faces, 
faces that are heavy as to jaw and narrow as to 
forehead, faces broad at the top, thin faces and 
fat faces. 

Equal in diversity are the features. These are 
rose-bud mouths and heavy, thick lips; veritable 
cupid's bow^ and mouths that resemble a slit in 
a poor box. 

Ej^es may be perfectly round and moon-like, 
or, they may be just narrow openings — the eyes 
half hidden in the head. Again, the eyes may 
be simply normal. 

Then there are long noses, short noses, thick 
noses and regular wedges, so thin are they. 

Hair is the next consideration. Some women 
wear it fluffed around the face, another takes it 
back as severely as she possibly can. A third 
builds up an aggressive looking top-knot, while 
the next one perhaps arranges her hair low in 
the back. 

83 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

So now it can be clearly seen that the choice of 
a hat is no light subject if it is to be all round 
becoming. 

It has been pointed out that the hat flaring in 
the front should not be worn Avhen it repeats the 
lines of the nose. For the same reason the woman 
with a long, downward drooping nose should not 
(*hoose her hat with a drooping brim. Let her 
bend the brim into becoming curves that will 
break the line of the long nose. When this 
feature is thin as well as long, the brim bent just 
above both eyes will be found becoming. The 
dents should be made so as to suggest a narrow 
inverted arch above the forehead and the brim 
at the back should be rather narrow. 

A long, thick nose may be rendered less ab- 
normal if the brim of the hat is bent just at the 
left side front. The curve seems to redeem the 
face from heaviness, often apparent with a nose 
of this type. 

Sometimes even skilled millinery fails to 
bring out good features; then its mission should 
be to conceal or modify bad ones. For instance : a 
perfectly round face will become a rather broad 
brim, but unless the wearer is quite tall the 
crown must be high, otherwise the result will be 
apt to suggest a pudding topped by a pie plate, 
so that not only must the outline of the brim be 
considered, but the shape of the crown as well. 

The short-back sailor with fairly high crown 
is a model generally becoming to this type. 

When the lower part of the face is broad, then 
the hat must be built out so as to be broader than 

84 



How TO Choose a Becoming Hat. 

the face. Anything narrow or high above the 
eyes will only emphasize such heaviness. The 
face and head will resemble a wedge held point 
upw^ards. 

Then there is the true w^edge-like face, the 
breadth coming at the upper portion. Hats that 
will suit this type of face are medium in size 
and preferably flat. 

When ties of chiffon or tulle are in fashion 
they should always be worn, because the airy 
fluffiness under the chin will provide the missing 
balance. 

Drooping Brim. 

A light-looking bow pinned to the collar w-ill 
act in the same kind manner — supposing strings 
are not worn. And so will any kind of neckw^ear, 
in fact, that is aiTanged with outstanding loops. 

A drooping brim will be becoming to the face 
that is too long and thin for symmetry, while a 
face with prominent cheek bones must be dressed 
with a hat that extends beyond the cheeks. 

A brim narrow at the sides will only serve 
to bring the broad cheeks into prominence, while 
the wider brim will apparently lessen the breadth. 

A very fat face requires a substantial though 
not overpowering style of headwear. An entirely 
airy piece of millinery is not becoming to a face 
that is too fat. At the same time it must not 
be too heavy. A compromise suggested apt to 
prove satisfactory would be a fairly firm founda- 
tion trimmed with light fluffy effects as wired 

85 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

net or lace, pompons or ostrich tips, but not 
large plumes. 

The very tall girl, no matter what the shape 
of her face may be, or the type of her features, 
must wear a large hat always. It should be fairly 
flat and never, by any chance really high. If un- 
usually tall, then an all black hat Avill suit her 
far better than a colored one. 

She may wear drooping plumes if she will, 
brims veiled with soft fabrics and large flowers. 

Middle Age Millinery. 

The elderly woman or she of middle age, of 
course, finds more difficulties in the way of select- 
ing becoming millinery than will younger women, 
not only because the variety of models to choose 
from is more limited, but also because the hair — 
such an important factor in the success of a hat — 
is probably the cause. The fluffy, frivolous coiffure 
that is such a help to a youthful face when 
choosing a hat is entirely out of the question 
when it comes to a woman of mature years, and 
very often a hat suited to her age mounted over 
plain, perhaps scanty locks and viewed for the 
first time well-nigh provokes despair. She must 
get used to it, she is told. Small comfort, is it 
not? In my opinion fluffy tulle should be made 
to do duty for the lack of hair. Little tuft 
rosettes can be set in here and there as found 
necessary without in any way changing the lines 
of the hat, or again, perhaps it may be that a 
pompon should be substituted for the stiffer 

86 



How TO Choose a Becoming Hat. 

trimming of wing or bird. A third means sug- 
gested is a ruching of tulle as an outline when 
found practicable. 

Not all elderly women require a softening in- 
fluence, however. Indeed there are any number of 
women now-a-days who can wear all kinds of 
angularities in shape and trimming and look 
smarter still for such lines. These are the well 
groomed, well set up women often met with in 
business or professional life. The tall, slender 
middle-aged woman may wear a fairly large and 
medium flat hat successfully. It may be black 
or colored, just as she prefers. 

Now, the short or the stout woman must choose 
her hat on directly opposite lines. It must not 
be too large, neither must it be too small, and 
black — that is, all black — should not be worn 
except from necessity. As has been before ex- 
plained, the broad brim and the sombre hue have 
both a tendency to reduce height. In combina- 
tion ill results are doubled and, of course, the 
short, stout woman needs every fraction of her 
inches. On the contrary, the over tall, thin 
woman will wish to reduce her height in order 
that she may suggest breadth, therefore it will 
be clearly seen that wide or drooping brims will 
meet her needs. If the face is quite thin and 
long, then this defect may be offset by using a 
trimming in a broad effect. 

This may be accomplished by allowing soft tips 
or fluffy plumes to fall over the brim forming 
a background for the face, or by the addition of 
a bow arranged in broad loops above the face. 

87 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

A lace veil draped around the brim is another 
suggestion. All such arrangements will suit her. 

The short woman of average build should 
adopt and stick to smart little turbans trimmed 
with upstanding bows or smart-looking wings; 
the continental shapes when they are worn and 
the hat with a fairly narrow brim rolling a little 
at both sides, after the style known as the Eng- 
lish walking hats. 

Short women who in their youth have been 
known as the baby-faced type will look well in 
draped toques, trimmed with ostrich tips or soft 
pompons. Fur turbans or a toque adorned with 
a bird of Paradise or a spray of flowers in pastel 
shades are hers also, the trimming always ar- 
ranged high. 

Any amount of sympathy is due the short, 
stout, elderly woman when she essays to choose 
a hat, for so many points must be borne in mind 
if the hat is to be a success. 

It must not be too large, or she loses height, 
and it must not be too small because if so, the 
plump face will change to a positively fat one 
beneath it. 

I should say that a broad, generous turban 
would suit this type of face better than any other, 
the trimming arranged high, a second choice be- 
ing the hat showing a narrow front brim, the 
sides fairly wide. 

A large draped toque is another recommended 
style. 

88 



How TO Choose a Becoming Hat. 

Trimmings. 

When it comes to the question of trimming 
materials there is quite as much variety as there 
are in shapes, each fabric or ornament being 
adapted to suit individual needs. Flowers are 
always pretty for girls' summer hats, but even 
these must be chosen with discretion, not only 
in regard to color but also to form. 

The maiden with round eyes, arched with 
brows following the same lines and dainty, round 
mouth, should not exaggerate these features- 
pretty as they may be— by trimming her hat with 
decorations round in shape, such as rosettes, 
round cabuchons, yellow daisies centred with 
brown or the flowers known as black-eyed Susans. 

What she needs are angular lines, as, for in- 
stance, a pert-looking wing, an upstanding bow, 
or loops of ribbon drawn through a long buckle. 

Roses may be used if combined with foliage but 
are seldom a success alone. 

Small flowers, as sweet peas, forget-me-nots, 
and bluets will be charming, if arranged in run- 
ning sprays, anything, in fact, that will modify 
the round effect of the features. 

For the girl whose face is long and thin there 
is nothing better in trimming than ostrich 
plumes, especially when the wearer is tall. 

These may droop over the brim, wave over the 
back, and indeed give the same service to youth- 
ful faces that need softening as tulle does for 
the elderly woman. 

89 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

Colors. 

Of colors it is of course only possible for ine 
to speak generally in a work of this kind. Some 
authorities claim that the hat should match the 
hair. This may be all right in theory, but how 
often can it be put into practice? Millinery 
shades seldom so closely follow nature, that a 
good contrast is certainly preferable to a bad 
match. I like yellow straw on golden hair and 
also on dark hair, but not when either is turning 
gray. It makes the hair look dull and murky, 
I fancy. 

Brown can seldom be found to match the hair 
while black hats on black hair generally result 
in one or the other looking dull and lifeless. 

Young people can, of course, choose the colors 
for hats to match their dresses, but elderly 
women will find the dainty genuine shades of 
youth rather trying at their period in life, and so, 
if wise, will avoid them, choosing instead colors 
more in keeping with their years. 

Burnt straw trimmed smartly with black rib- 
bon and wings are stylish-looking generally, but 
the question of flowers on millinery for elderly 
women is an open one. If stout, opulent or florid 
looking, then I should say don't. On the con- 
trary, the thin, refined looking, or the angular 
woman will, by their softening influence find 
flowers a decided improvement. Prim little 
bunches of violets tucked into a smart little 
turban is always becoming, and the flower toque 

90 



How TO Choose a Becoming Hat. 

of pansies or rose foliage is another charming bit 
of head wear for the elderly woman. 

Lace is in good taste whether white or black, 
and may be used at any time for toning down 
effects considered too pronounced to be becoming. 

Velvet, whether black or colored, is always 
becoming when draped above the face, and so are 
brims covered with the breasts of birds. Colors 
becoming to women who have been fair in their 
youth are pastel blues and greens, reseda, faded 
heliotrope, old pink, dark red and black. 

Brunettes whose hair is turning gray may 
wear cardinal, crimson, old rose, a touch of burnt 
orange, gray, pale blue in pastel tones, and any 
of the dahlia shades. 

Trying on Millinery. 

Having decided on color and shape there comes 
the trying-on process, and where is the woman 
who does not dread this ordeal? Hats have such 
a trick of looking exactly right when the wearer 
is seated before a mirror after having consigned 
herself to the obliging saleswoman; and being 
positively hideous perhaps only a couple of hours 
afterwards in the privacy of one's own room. 
One authority on such matters declares that hats 
have tempers and that when they refuse to adapt 
themselves and behave charmingly that there is 
nothing to do but to put them away in the box 
until they have come out of the sulks. Of the 
truth of this statement I am not prepared to say, 
but most women have found that hats do act 
^^contrary" quite frequently. 

91 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

iVt a reliable store the saleswoman may gener- 
ally be trusted to select a becoming style, but in 
my opinion, the choice should be left largely to 
the wearer. She will do well to solicit advice 
and seek opinions from those better informed in 
such matters and should certainly give any sug- 
gestions full weight, but the final decision should, 
I think, rest with the purchaser. It is she who 
will have to wear the hat, and if she likes it even 
if it is not actually becoming, she can generally 
by judicious coaxing bring it to suit her fairly 
well. She will fuss with it here, pat it there, give a 
little bend at a third point until in a short time 
it becomes actually a part of the wearer, condi- 
tions that should always exist, between hat and 
head. 

If, on the contrary, the purchaser does not like 
the hat personally, but has been persuaded by 
others that it suits her, she is apt to put it on 
and off as a ^^lateful old thing," and in the end 
find it less becoming than the hat she loves, even 
though its general lines may be less correct. 

So, given a measure of good sense and good 
taste, let the wearer to be decide the question, 
I say. 

I do not believe in buying a hat until it has 
been viewed from all points, back, front and 
sides, neither should it be decided upon until 
the effect has been tried of standing as well as 
sitting before the glass. 

A hat that is most attractive while the wearer 
sits may cut off her height unmercifully when 
she stands, or again it may be too small in pro- 

92 



How TO Choose a Becoming Hat. 

portion to the form it surmounts and so totally 
destroy a correct balance. 

Lastly, in buying a hat bear in mind the colors 
of the gowns that will be worn with it, selecting 
them with a view to harmony or contrast. 



93 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTER XI. 
A TALK ON CORSETS. 

T SUPPOSE it will be news to some women at 
least, to be told that the corset is the most 
important detail of a woman's toilet, but it 
is certainly true. That some women need this 
message is evident by the very slight attention 
they give to the selection of a proper corset, or 
is the apathy born of ignorance, the subject not 
having been brought to those interested with the 
prominence it merits? for, strange to say, there 
is very little written about corsets that may be 
regarded as instructive at all. 

It certainly is the desire of every normal 
woman to be attractive, so that when she fails it 
must be because she is ignorant of the means of 
becoming so. Will she not spend half a day 
choosing a material for a new gOAvn, search for 
trimmings perhaps till nerves and strength give 
way; consult fashion books by the score for days 
before she can decide upon a design, and endure 
perfect agonies until tlie gown is out of the hands 
of the dressmaker (afterwards, too, sometimes). 
This is the experience of most of us at some time 
or another in our life, I feel sure. 

And yet — the question of the frame work that 
will certainly decide whether the gown is to be 
a success or a failure — for few of us are so per- 

94 



Talks on Corsets. 

fectlj formed tliat we need no aid from art, and 
art in this case means correct corseting — is prob- 
ably settled in half an hour at the ontside. This 
is not unseldom done simply by selecting a corset 
displayed upon a form, the style or lines of which 
appeals to the purchaser. That the wooden form 
differs entirely from hers in the flesh never seems 
to occur to her. She desires to look like the figure 
and believes that wearing that particular style 
of corset furnishes the proper means. It may 
be that she could be made to look like the form, 
but it does not follow that the model selected 
will give such results. Nine times out of ten 
it will be a disappointment. The proper course 
would have been to have tried on corsets until 
the coveted figure was attained. 

As an instance. I was at a corsetiere's recently 
— a shop where semi-ready corsets are first fitted 
to the figure and then finished — when two women 
friends, who were of entirely different types, 
came in to buy. 

The first to be fitted was quite a large woman. 
Several models were tried on until the right one 
was found and then after the pinning and ad- 
justing were perfected the figure had apparently 
been so much improved, that the friend insisted 
upon getting the same corset. In vain the fitter 
pleaded. "I can give you that figure," said she, 
"but not with that corset. -Your lines are entirely 
different from those upon which the corset is 
built and you will not look like your friend." 

But the purchaser persisted, "Let me put on 

95 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

the corset and then have it fitted to my figure 
the same way as you fitted my friend.'^ 

After quite a lively discussion, the fitter gave 
in, but, as she remarked afterwards, '^Selling that 
corset is going to do me more harm than good, 
for it is entirely unfitted to the figure that will 
wear it." 

Buying the Corset. 

The first step in buying a corset is to decide 
whether it shall be made to order, be one of the 
semi-fitted styles, or of the ready-to-wear variety. 
If economy is not to be studied then there is no 
question but that the made to order is far and 
away the better choice, provided one goes to a 
thoroughly good corsetiere for it. Models ready to 
wear can often be found to fit the average well 
proportioned figure, but, for those who have 
developed irregularly — that is, — bust, hip and 
waist measurements not in proportion, and who 
cannot afford to pay a high price, will un- 
doubtedly get the greatest benefit from the semi- 
ready corsets, because these are built on lines 
fitting a perfect figure, and then finished to suit 
each and every figure. 

By these means comfort as well as fit is 
assured. 

Ready to wear corsets can now be bought in 
quite a number of excellent models and the ser- 
vices of a competent fitter are usually provided 
at the best stores. 

She will try different styles until both fitter 
and fitted are pleased and very often the trans- 

9'J 



Talks on Corsets. 

action is entirely satisfactory. Time lias been 
saved, anyway, and, another advantage in buying 
this way, one can see exactly how one looks, and, 
more important still, tell how the corset feels 
on the body. Years ago, a corset that gave one 
a stylish figure was apt to produce pain in like 
measure. 

I remember once seeing a woman being fitted 
to a corset, Avho, when asked after the final fitting, 
if she felt comfortable, replied: ''Comfortable? 
I look stunning, but I never expected to feel 
comfortable; don't worry yourself about my 
comfort." 

Such a reply would certainly not be ignored 
to-day, for the best corsetieres are able to give 
the perfection of style with the acme of comfort, 
so far has their art progressed. 

In advocating the semi-ready corset for the 
large army of imperfect figures I have the ques- 
tion of comfort as well as appearance in my mind. 

The ready to wear corset is moulded on the 
lines of a proportionate figure, which according 
to a dressmaker's standard is — bust measure ten 
inches larger, and hip measure about seventeen 
inches larger than the Avaist measure. 

Few forms so develop. For instance the abdo- 
men may grow out of i)roportion to waist and bust 
or, it may be that flesh has gathered between the 
bust and the waist line, or again, the bust meas- 
ure may have increased only. It is obvious, then, 
that a corset moulded on perfect lines must in- 
terfere with the comfort if worn by an imper- 
fect figure. Here is where the skill of the corset- 

97 



I'ALKS ON Successful Gowning. 

iere comes in. She puts on the unfinished model 
and then distributes the flesh in a way that 
gives the impression of a perfectly proportionate 
figure, and then the corset is finished to con- 
form to the new made lines. The result is style 
with comfort. 

But there are thousands of women in this broad 
land of ours living under conditions that ex- 
clude them from the privilege of having the opin- 
ion of a competent fitter, or, perhaps, the opin- 
ion of any person who is better informed on the 
subject than themselves, yet they are quite as 
anxious to appear attractive as those situated 
more favorably. 

This large army must depend upon the small 
stores for their supply or else call in the aid of 
the post office, for a very large amount of 
shopping now-a-days is conducted through the 
mail. 

The buyer should have a knowledge of what she 
wishes to purchase, and she generally has — quite 
decided views in fact — except when it comes to 
the choice of a corset. Indeed as a rule, this detail 
of the toilet, she believes is decided by Dame 
Fashion and that she herself has nothing to do 
with the matter beyond stating the size, the price 
she wishes to pay and possibly the kind of 
material or color she prefers. 

Now while, as I said before, manufacturers 
build these corsets on the lines of a perfect figure, 
this does not mean that there is only one model. 
On the contrary, there are dozens to choose from, 
each designed to suit the varied types of women, 

98 



Talks on Corsets. 

which include the tall, the short, the slender, the 
stout, those long-waisted and those unduly short. 

There are models to suit the high bust and 
models to suit those who possess a prominent ab- 
domen or protruding hips, designed, too, with a 
view to concealing defects and bringing out the 
best points of the wearer. 

Clearly, then, it is possible, for any woman, 
living, however remote, to get a corset that will 
give satisfaction in comfort and style if she 
only knows what to ask for. 

Very often she does not, for, as I said before, 
it is a subject that has claimed very little of her 
attention. 

I will, therefore, try to teach her. 

The Stout Figure. 

Beginning with the stout figure — the type in 
special need of help — I should say, first find out 
to which class you belong, the flabby fat, or are 
you among those whose flesh is hard and firm? 

Flabby women, as a rule, require stiffer corsets 
than those w^hose flesh is firm. The latter type 
will often be able to wear a corset of thin batiste 
only lightly boned during the summer or for 
evening dress, while a flalDby person would find 
such a corset uncomfortable, as the flesh would 
not resist the soft material, and the bones would 
press into the skin, almost cutting it. Coutille 
with medium bones w^ill be better, because it pro- 
vides some of the firmness the flesh lacks. 

A good, well shaped back is the first essential. 
Thanks to the comfortable and hygienic straight 

' 99 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

front corset this is not difficult to achieve, for 
undue flesh can be moulded toward the front, and 
lie comfortably between the waist line and the 
bust without the least detriment to the figure. 

Another class of the stout women are those 
who are very full under the arms, but only medi- 
um across the chest, a ^'spread'' figure, as it is 
called. These women require a corset that is 
quite trig and trim at the top, but to prevent the 
flesh from drooping over under the arms three 
short cross bones should be sewn in. The corset 
should also be cut as high under the arms as 
possible, and if, after the corset is adjusted, 
there is an ugly ridge in the back at the top, this 
can be obviated by adding suspenders. If the 
shoulders are very fat these suspenders are an 
actual necessity. Any woman can make them for 
herself. Strips of material are sewn to the top 
of the corset in the back, and taken over the 
shoulders to the top of the corset in front and 
secured there. The strips should graduate in 
width, fitting the corset in the back and measur- 
ing an inch or so in the front. 

In the case of tlie full abdomen a corset larger 
in the waist line than usually worn should be 
bought. The flesh can then be raised and dis- 
tributed about the waist line and above it to the 
great improvement of the figure. Many persons 
have an idea that by lacing in at the waist line 
an impression of slenderness is given. Yet never 
was there a greater mistake. Indeed such a 
practice acts in the opposite direction forcing the 
bust and hips into prominence and making the 

100 



Talks on Corsets. 

figure look stouter than it really is, and, then 
again, tight lacing at that point is injurious. 

Lacing below the waist line is perfectly harm- 
less; but there should always be plenty of room 
over the diaphragm to allow of proper breathing. 

Once this part feels comfortable the corset may 
be laced as tight as one pleases over the hips 
without doing harm. 

Full Bust. 

For a full bust a corset should be cut low re- 
gardless of prevailing styles. A high cut corset 
will make the wearer look stouter than she really 
is, while, if she is short as well as stout the effect 
is apt to be grotesque. She will look not unlike 
a pouter pigeon parading. 

While the bust should be cut low there is no 
necessity for the gores running down to the act- 
ual waist line as is seen in some exaggerated 
models. To my thinking, ^^sloppy" is the only 
word that can describe the figure wearing this 
style of corset. 

When high busts are worn the corset shoukl 
still be cut low and the bust supporters be at- 
tached at the top from the sides. 

These will hold the figure perfectly, and give all 
the effect of a high corset without its discomfort. 

The average figure can take care of itself but 
the very thin women often finds the question of 
a suitable corset a trying one. In her case, the 
bones will probably hurt her if the corset is laced 
tight, while if the strings are left loose her figure 
is apt to suggest a bean pole. Corsetieres claim 

101 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

that the best thing to do in such a case is to leave 
the strings fairly loose and then call in the aid 
of art to represent nature by means of frills and 
judicious padding. 

Stocking suspenders play an important part 
in the set of the corset. Three pairs are neces- 
sar}^ Two are sewn on each side of the front 
and one at each side over the hips. 

Those in front must be sewn to tabs that are 
curved to fit the corset, unless the material of the 
corset runs down below the bones when the tabs 
are unnecessary. 

The proper adjustment to the stockings is an- 
other detail. Small, I know, but quite important. 
The inner ones should be clasped a little to the 
inside of the knee and the others directly in front. 

Those on the hips will follow a straight line to 
the stocking. 

If the inner elastics of the front suspenders 
are cut an inch longer than the outer ones, much 
of the discomfort often experienced in walking 
when the garters are tight may be avoided. 

There is a proper way of putting on a corset also, 
and this has not only to do with its appearance 
but also its wear. I know a corsetiere who al- 
ways laces the figure into the corset for the first 
time claiming that the fit and wear will be much 
better because put on properly at the first. 

Her method is to have the strings very loose. 
She then places the corset around the figure and 
closes the bottom hook first, working upwards. 
If it is necessary to raise the abdomen or distri- 
bute any flesh it is done now. Then the strings 

103 



Talks on Corsets. 

are drawn in at the waist line and loosely tied. 
Next the wearer wrio^$:les and works herself into 
the corset until she feels comfortable. Then she 
sits down and allows the bust to fall into posi- 
tion. If satisfactory, lacing is commenced from 
the bottom of the corset upward to the waist 
line, and then downward from the top. Finally 
the strings are pulled snug at the waist line, 
crossed in the back and brought around under 
the hook and tied there. The ends may be tucked 
into the top of the corset or under the suspenders 
as preferred. 

These small matters appear very trivial, but 
it should be borne in mind that perfect success 
depends entirely upon strict attention to details. 

The rules for arranging the corset may be fol- 
lowed when wishing to find out whether the cor- 
set is suited to one's figure or not. If when the 
figure is seated the bones stick in at the lower 
edge and the bust rises then the corset is too long. 
If only the bones are in fault these can easily be 
shortened, but it is better to try a shorter corset 
when the bust becomes misplaced. 

The material of the corset is cut very long at 
present so that in trying on, one should always 
sit as well as stand. In this way one can tell 
whether the material left free below the bones 
is sufficiently loose to allow sitting in comfort. 

Sometimes it is so tight as to actually prevent 
sitting, hence the necessity of sitting as well as 
standing when trying on a corset. 

It is generally supposed, I know, that any kind 
of a corset may be worn by girls in their teens, 

103 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

but this, I am told, by experienced corsetieres is 
a mistake. An expensive corset is by no means 
necessary, but it should suit the figure. Indeed 
it is claimed that if girls and young matrons 
were properly corseted, say up to the age of thirty 
the number of poor figures beyond that age would 
be greatly reduced. As a rule, the corset ques- 
tion only becomes a serious one to a woman after 
she has passed licr first youth, while, had she 
given it her attention earlier it may have been a 
most simple one all her life. 

Mothers of growing girls should take care to 
see that the first corset they wear is the right one, 
for there are quite as many types of undeveloped 
figures as there are of those fully grown. 

If it is impossible to visit the corset iere, then 
the next best thing is to write to her, stating the 
needs in detail and if she is a conscientious 
woman there need be no fear of the result. 



104 



CHAPTER XII. 
CORRECT GOWNING. 

TT I E hear it said time and again, and we see 
£ § I it written perhaps oftener that "an ap- 
^^^^ propriately gowned woman is a well 
dressed woman/' but, as a rule, the information 
stops at this point unless it be a tirade against 
the exceedingly bad taste displayed by women 
generally in choosing their costumes regardless 
of the occasion. 

Instances will be quoted describing a toilet 
seen in a car by day that was only fitted for 
a dinner frock, and another, met on the streets, 
could only be correct when w^orn to grace a 
formal reception. 

Any average woman of common sense recog- 
nizes this in quite the same degree as those who 
preach against it. What she would be glad to 
know is not what should not be worn, but what 
will be sartorially correct. 

One cannot educate taste by railing against 
blunders any more than children's faults can be 
corrected by constant nagging. Guidance and a 
showing of better things are the means to be 
employed, and, in this chapter, I hope to describe 
in detail the kind of costumes that will be ab- 
solutely correct for the different hours and oc- 
casions, — and not only correct but practical as 

105 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

well, so that any woman lacking confidence 
in her own taste has only to consult these pages 
and find out what they have to tell her, feeling 
assured that any information is absolutely author- 
itative. 

Morning Costume. 

Beginning with a morning costume for winter 
wear I should suggest a suit of tweed, serge or 
cheviot, the skirt made to clear the ground all 
around and the coat semi or close fitting, the 
length depending upon present modes and the 
build of the wearer. Coat sleeves and a man's 
collar never go out of fashion and are always 
the correct finish to a tailored coat. 

Black is always in good taste, while navy blue 
— a staple color — is very generally becoming. In 
fact, there is nothing to equal a nice navy blue 
serge for appearance and wear if one is willing 
to keep it in good order by means of brushing 
and pressing. 

For very rough, knockabout wear the tweeds 
are excellent. They are also fabrics that do not 
readily show^ stains or soil. 

The hat for wear with a tailored suit should 
be on the stiff, ready to wear order in a medium 
size, not necessarily the same color as the dress. 

Black may be worn when the wearer is tall 
and will be found practical also, as a black hat 
goes well with any gown. Navy with a navy 
suit and brown with brown is always good, but 
there are a few other colors that are more at- 
tractive when combined with contrasting colors. 

106 



Correct Gowning. 

Gray, for instance, is seldom a success as a hat 
unless the face underneath it is dainty and pinky, 
or worn on the tresses of a dashing brunette of 
the cream and cherry complexion type. A dark 
red hat will harmonize with a gray dress and be 
found becoming to almost every type of woman, 
and a hat of golden brown worn with a suit of 
gray is often effective especially when a little 
brown trimming has been employed upon the 
suit. 

Gloves should be of heavy, substantial kid, 
preferably tan color, and neat, well fitting high 
shoes should be worn. Paper soles and low cuts 
are not in good taste worn with a morning street 
costume. A veil is always a pretty finish to any 
toilet and a fairly fine mesh with small unob- 
trusive dots should be chosen. 

Black is a safe choice, although brown is nicer 
than black when the hat is brown. Chiffon is 
lady-like looking over the face and is oftentimes 
a charity. It softens and refines the features 
more than any other kind of weave. There should 
be no free, flowing ends, but every effort must be 
put forth toward creating a trim, trig, neat toilet, 
smart and becoming to the wearer. 

A white underskirt worn under a tailored suit 
on a winter's morning is incorrect. If taffeta 
is too expensive, then brilliantine, sateen or any 
of the substitutes for silk may be used. 

The waist will be of French flannel in striped 
or small figured design or of heavy wash goods 
—plainly tailored in any case— and finished at 

107 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

the neck with a stiff white linen collar and a 
neat tie. 

The belt will be of kid or elastic closing with 
a small buckle. Furs may be worn, but all such 
accessories as chiffon boas and fancy muffs must 
be set religiously aside for wear with other than 
a morning toilet. 
Afternoon Toilet. 

For afternoon street, church or calling the suit 
may be of broadcloth or any of the novelty cloths. 
Velveteen is another suitable material. This will 
be made up on tailored lines, but in what are 
known as dressy styles for want of a better name, 
that is, the skirt may be longer and the coat given 
a fussy treatment, always, of course, bearing in 
mind the build of the woman who is to wear it. 

The hat may be larger, and be more lavishly 
trimmed than that worn for morning. Plumes 
will be in good taste, and so will velvet, ribbon, 
wings, birds and handsome flowers. 

The waist may be of silk matching the shade of 
the gown or even white, and the neck dressing 
will be as dainty as one pleases. Gloves will be 
either white, black or a shade matching the suit, 
and the shoes will be of fine kid or patent leather. 
The kind of foot-wear will, of course, depend a 
very great deal upon whether the wearer walks 
or rides. Patent leather is always in good taste 
in a carriage. The veil may be of lace, if con- 
sidered becoming to the wearer, or of net, in 
black and white effects, black or all white, as 
preferred. 

Such jewelry as a bracelet, a lavalliere or other 

108 



Correct Gowning. 

simple necklace may be worn, also a pretty 
jeweled clasp to the belt and small earrings. As 
a rule, the question of wearing much or little 
jewelry is decided by the occasion upon which it 
is to be worn. 

A handsome tailored gown will be appropriate 
for attending church services, while the same 
toilet, adding jewels, furs, or dainty accessories, 
will be quite suitable for wear at a day reception 
or a morning wedding in church. 

By the same rule may the underskirt be gov- 
erned. There are occasions when a fluffy lingerie 
petticoat will be quite correct, while again the 
taffeta skirt will be in much better taste another 
time. Any woman of ordinary intelligence will, 
I am sure, be able to decide the question for 
herself. 

For women's luncheons and afternoon teas, 
when a cloth suit is not worn, then a dressy frock 
of taffeta, foulard, voile or any suitable fabric 
will be in good taste. It will be made in the 
latest style, modified, if necessary, to suit the 
proportions of the wea'rer, but it must be smart. 
It may be light or dark in color, as the wearer 
wishes, but it must not be heavy in texture. 
There should, of course, be a dainty relief about 
the neck. 

A separate wrap will be necessary if the dress 
is quite light. This will be removed before 
entering the reception room, but the hat will be 
retained. Any daint}^, becoming piece of head- 
wear harmonizing with the rest of the toilet 
should be worn. A flower toque is pretty, at the 

109 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

same time a large, much beplumed hat will be 
in equally good taste, provided, of course, it suits 
the style and age of the wearer. 

Gloves will be white and jewelry in moderation 
will be quite correct. If belts or sashes are worn, 
make a point of having these strictly up to date, 
and, in fact, make quite sure that every accessory 
of the toilet is of the latest mode. This is much 
more important really than the cut or material 
of your gown. 

Dinner Gowns. 

Coming to the dinner gowns (perhaps the most 
formal toilet of all), there is this to be said: 
If invited out to dinner at a private house, a 
handsome gown of silk, velvet or satin cut 
decollete and sleeves conspicuous only by their 
brevity will be quite correct. 

The petticoat may be of lingerie or soft satin, 
but the agreeable frou-frou of the stiffer silks 
is banished from the list of petticoat materials 
for evening wear. There are lovely brocades 
worn under dinner gowns that are flounced with 
lingerie ruffles, a pretty and an economical fash- 
ion, for the flounce can be cleansed at any time 
and be re-attached. 

Velvet is an ideal fabric far the gown of a 
matron who is inclined or more to plumpness. As 
a rule, this type has extremely good shoulders 
and nothing sets them off so well as velvet, the 
relief coming from a flat band of ivory lace. It 
goes without saying that the model should be 
perfectly plain, both on account of the build of 

110 



Correct Gowning. 

the wearer and the material. Much trimming 
cheapens velvet, to my thinking, and certainly a 
fussy model would be exceedingly unbecoming 
to other than a slender figure. 

Glossy, glistening satins should be favored by 
women who would prefer, if they could have it, 
just a little more flesh, and a fluffy arrange- 
ment of tulle or something equally soft about the 
bust will be better than a flat trimming. Tuckers 
are the most charitable little affairs to the 
woman whose neck is thin and scrawny, for a 
pretty tucker of white illusion will disguise all 
such deficiencies, yet the effect at only a very 
short distance will be of a decollete waist. 

The hostess when giving a dinner will wear 
a very handsome gown, but it should not be so 
elaborate as to out-shine a toilet that may be 
worn by any of her guests. 

Jewels may be displayed as one pleases, and 
special attention will be given to the coiffure. 
Matrons will prefer the high arrangement of the 
hair and no comb or diamond will be too rich 
or elaborate to be used as a decoration. Younger 
women will adopt the low nape of the neck twist 
or the Psyche knot, any style in fact that suggests 
youth or girlishness, as the case may be. A young 
married woman will seek a slightly more digni- 
fied coiffure than that selected by her girl friend. 

Dining at a Restaurant. 

In dining at a restaurant or hotel such gowns 
as might be worn at home would be decidedly 
in bad taste here. A pretty light frock is of 

111 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

course essential, but it must be high-necked even 
though the yoke may be ever so deep or so trans- 
parent. A black or a white lace or net gown of 
the simple order is quite appropriate for such an 
occasion, the former lighted up by flashes of jet 
trimming or soft white effects about the bust and 
neck. 

Jewels not too profuse may be indulged in 
and a pretty dainty fan is a charming accessory 
that can be made to give a touch of color to a 
toilet in a monotone. 

The hat should be as smart as the purse will 
allow and gloves, of course, must be immaculate. 

The feet will be shod with patent leather 
pumps and silk stockings, which may be black, 
white or match the color of the gown worn. 

The evening wrap should be of cloth, made in 
a loose, graceful fashion, the color light or dark, 
as preferred. The neutral tones, as fawn, mode 
and putty colors go well with almost any kind 
of a gown and, of course, black is always prac- 
tical. Unless relieved, however, with handsome 
embroideries, black is apt to be rather sombre 
looking for evening wear. 

The toilet that is correct for a dinner in a 
public place is one that is also entirely appropri- 
ate for theatre wear. For the opera the most 
elaborate costume may be launched, silks, satins, 
jewels and gee-gaws are all admissible. 

For the matinee one can wear an afternoon 
tailored suit with a dainty fluffy waist and one's 
best hat. Gloves should be white and a pretty 
feather boa may complete the toilet. Again, a 

112 



CoEEECT Gowning. 

frock of voile, messaline or other soft silk is in 
perfect taste, a little lace arranged as a yoke or 
bertha and worn under a separate wrap which 
will be very easy to remove. Many articles of 
jewelry should be dispensed with, in fact, unless 
upon a very ceremonious occasion, jewels should 
not be worn in the day time to any great extent. 
To do so is a sign of ill breeding and an absence 
of the knowledge of the fitness of things. 

There will, however, be no objection whatever 
to a few dainty trinkets. 

Summer Frocks. 

A summer morning street gown may consist of 
a linen skirt and coat suit, white or a color, 
simply tailored, carrying out the lines suggested 
for the woolen suit. The kind of hat will depend 
upon the age of the wearer. For quite a young 
woman the conventional straw sailor neatly 
banded with a ribbon is the best possible choice. 
An older woman might prefer a straw toque or 
a medium sized hat of fine braid. In any case 
flowers should not be used as a trimming on a 
hat to be worn with a linen gown. Ribbon is 
always in good taste and so are stiff wings. An 
all black hat is stylish looking with a white or 
colored linen suit, and in that case the gloves 
should be black also. Hose and neat fitting kid 
shoes will be both of the same sombre hue. The 
shirt waist will be of lawn brought into a linen 
belt and a linen collar and natty tie will finish 
the neck. The prettiest kind of a veil for morning 
wear is the fine wash net with a tiny design or 
dot or else one of chiffon. 

113 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

A white linen parasol may be carried with 
almost any morning toilet, while a bright taffeta 
in vivid coloring will be in perfect taste suppos- 
ing the rest of the toilet is white. For seaside 
or country wear bright red or vivid green is 
immensely attractive as a color for a parasol. 

The plain, neat shirt waist suit is another 
costume that is in good taste for morning wear, 
made of percale, lawn, linen or chambray on sim- 
ple lines relieved with a little white at the throat. 
The stout or short woman should choose her belt 
to match her dress, a slim one may wear a white 
linen belt and look all the daintier for it. 

White silk or lisle thread gloves will be in good 
taste and when the dress is white the shoes of 
canvas may be white also. In the case of a 
colored gOAvn then tan footwear will be more 
harmonious than white. 

Afternoon Gown. 

An afternoon toilet may be as dainty as the 
wearer chooses, due attention being given to a 
becoming color and the age of the woman it will 
adorn. 

A young woman may choose among the organ- 
dies, dimities, cliallis and kindred simple fabrics, 
and have them developed into smart prevailing 
styles with trimmings of lace and ribbon. Necks 
Avill be high, though among quite young girls 
the Dutch mode is pretty. This stjde for street 
wear, however, is not as good as the really close 
to the throat. 

An older woman will select from the list that 

114 



Correct Gowning. 

includes voile, the silk and wool mixtures, poplin 
crepy goods, or a simple grenadine, made up 
tastefully and becomingly. 

Hats may be on the "pretty'' order without 
being elaborate. Lace, both black and white, ecru 
net, and fine straw are appropriate with trim- 
mings of flowers, tips or plumes, as suits the 
pocketbook and the age of the wearer. Small 
flowers are entirely suitable for elderly women's 
wear, but tips will be in better taste than large, 
"giddy" looking blossoms. 

Girls generally may indulge in flowers as a 
hat decoration to their hearts' content, and often 
a filmy scarf tying down a hat will be an added 
attraction. An afternoon hat may carry this 
addition, but headwear for morning will be per- 
haps in better taste when these ties are dispensed 
with. The daintiest of under-skirts will be 
pressed into service all befrilled and ruffled, while 
for morning wear, the white petticoat should be 
fairly plain. A flounce of blind embroidery hem- 
stitched is a pretty finish and so is a scalloped 
frill worked with large dots. 

Patent leather pumps and black silk stockings 
belong to the afternoon toilet and white gloves 
are always in the best possible taste. 



115 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

A CHAPTER ON FURS. 

TT I Hx\T a fascination furs have for women 
ft& I generally! Indeed, the possession of a 
^^^ liandsome set of furs oftentimes rep- 
resents 3'ears of careful saving and actual self- 
denial. 

Women who would never dream of saving up 
money to buy jew^els or costly gow^ns, will do 
so to invest in expensive furs, and consider it in 
no way extravagant. Neither is it, in fact, for 
furs of good quality should last a life-time, but 
to buy them with this end in view demands a 
knowledge that the average woman cannot be 
expected to possess, for so perfectly are genuine 
furs imitated that sometimes even an expert may 
be deceived. In the present chapter, however, I 
hope to be able to give such practical advice to 
would-be purchasers as will enable them to be 
on their guard against traps and pitfalls and 
to offer valuable information in detail on the 
care and treatment of furs, once they have be- 
come a possession. 

The first word of advice I have to give is : "Go 
to a good reliable furrier.'^ Trust no dealer in 
promiscuous wares when it comes to buying furs 
and do not believe in sacrificial prices. Furs may 
be slightly reduced at the end of the season, but 

116 



A Chapter on Furs. 

really good furs hold their own price throughout 
the year and are as staple as precious stones. 

Both have their own market value which varies 
only with the demand for them. 

The most expensive furs are the black fox and 
the Russian sable, though there are dozens of 
furs masquerading as sable. 

For instance dark mink is often labelled sable 
and unless the skin of the fur is examined one 
is apt to be victimized. Compared on the sur- 
face sable will be finer and softer than mink. 
The difference in the skins is more noticeable, 
the mink being much heavier and stronger than 
the sable. 

A test that an expert claims is infallible is to 
double the skin over with the fur outwards, and 
then to look at the ridge of fur that stands up 
in a very bright light. If the fur is genuine the 
tips will be darker than that coming next to the 
skin. If, however, the darker tone shows a 
regular line, then the fur has been "doctored," 
for nature produces this darkening irregularly. 

A person still doubtful should pull out a few 
of the darkest hairs and dip them in a very strong 
acid. If they are genuine they will simply 
bleach to a lighter tone, but if the fur has been 
dyed they are apt to turn almost any shade, 
green or plum color, for instance. 

Black fox is so very expensive that only very 
wealthy women can afford to buy this fur 
and with this class these pages have little or 
nothing to do, so I will begin the list with ermine, 

117 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

which, by the way, is by no means a cheap fur, 
either. 

White rabbit and coney is the substitute for 
this delicate fur. If purchased at a reliable 
furriers the price will tell whether it is genuine 
or an imitation, for a good house will mark both 
at their proper value, and no attempt Avill be 
made to palm off the inferior fur as real ermine. 

The little black tails can be so skillfully in- 
serted that white rabbit becomes an exceedingly 
good imitation, and for children's wear will an- 
sw^er the purpose quite as well as the genuine 
article. 

Minever much resembles ermine, but the white 
fur is spotted with tips of black instead of tails. 
The prices of minever and ermine are about the 
same. 

Next on the list is chinchilla, a most beautiful 
fur indeed, extremely soft and exquisite in color- 
ing, running all the way from a delicate silver, 
through pearl and steel gra^^s to deep blue gray. 

The chinchilla is quite a small animal, and, 
as one skin costs about $25, this may be classed 
among the costly furs. It is also said to be the 
most difficult pelt to imitate. 

White hare has been clipped, then artistically 
colored, but no amount of skill seems to have 
been capable of defying detection. 

Mink is a favorite fur and a good quality may 
be always quickly recognized. The fur is brown 
with a darker stripe distinctly marked. In life, 
this stripe runs the length of the little animaFs 
back. The cutting of mink skins is said to be the 

118 



A Chapter on Furs. 

very acme of the furrier's art. Indeed, very few 
practical men attempt to include the cutting in 
their ordinary work, but prefer to leave it to a 
specialist among fur workers. 

The mink skin measures about fourteen inches 
long before it is dressed, yet, when ready for 
making up it will measure eight inches longer. 
This is accomplished by cutting slants in the fur 
from the dark line to the edges. Then the skin 
is stretched and tiny scraps of fur are inserted, 
like wedges, blending perfectly, while the stripe 
is entirely preserved. As the work must be done 
with the skin side upwards it can easily be seen 
very great skill is required. It is, in fact, a most 
wonderful piece of work, viewed by the eyes of 
an amateur furrier. 

Persian lamb, too, is a general favorite, and is 
a pelt that cannot well be imitated. It will be 
found that the prices vary quite a good deal, 
but this is really owing to the difference in the 
quality of the fur, some skins being handsomer 
than the others, in just the same way as broad- 
cloth may be made from genuine wool or just 
shoddy. 

The buyer will know which kind she is getting 
by the price she pays. 

Persian lamb in a good quality is expensive, 
but a poor quality is dear at any price. A cheap 
coat is certainly hardly worth the buying, for it 
very soon loses its gloss, quickly becomes shabby 
and ragged looking, while unfortunately there 
are no means of restoring its beauty permanently, 
80 that unless one is prepared to pay a good price, 

119 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

it will be better to invest the money in a less 
costly fur. 

Caracul is a good investment and the price is 
modest. It is a skin, too, that wears well and 
so may be depended upon for all around genuine 
use. Pony skin has much to recommend it, and 
it is quite an easy matter to judge whether this 
fur is genuine or not as it is only imitated in 
fabrics. 

Brown fox is dyed, of course. This is a fur 
that looks well and may be said to wear fairly 
well, for the price paid. 

Pointed fox is black, showing white hairs. 
These are all put in by hand and so pointed fox 
is termed a made fur. 

Black lynx is usually genuine and may be 
classed among the less expensive furs. Of course 
there are imitations, but, if bought at a reliable 
house, one may be sure of getting the real thing. 

Beaver and opossum are easily distinguished. 
The former, however, is much more expensive 
than the latter. Squirrel, too, is another cheap 
fur and can be bought in its natural color or 
dyed brown. Squirrel ^4ock'' is the fur under- 
neath the little animaFs body and is cheaper 
than the black fur. For this reason it is often 
used as a lining for coats, etc. 

Sealskin to-day ranks among the most ex- 
pensive pelts and it may be said, no other fur has 
so many substitutes. The most perfect imitation 
is the musquash and so clever is the counterfeit, 
that it is often necessary to view the back of the 
skins in order to determine whether or not it 

120 



A Chapter on Furs. 

is genuine. If made from musquash there will 
be many seams, because the animal is small. The 
seal, on the contrary, is quite large, consequently 
there will be less joining of pieces. At the same 
time, however, there are furriers who use up 
small scraps of real sealskin in the making of 
garments; but these will cost less than those 
fashioned from full skins, because the beauty of 
the finished article will be less and the wear will 
not be as good. 

Another substitute for sealskin is dyed rabbit. 
This is called electric seal and for the price 
asked for it gives as good service as can be ex- 
pected. 

Fur Market. 

London is the fur market of the world and 
thither the dealers from all parts resort, both 
for buying and selling. It is said that there is 
something in the air and the water of England 
that works better in the curing and dyeing of 
skins than any other place upon the globe. 

Sealskins in just the raw salted condition are 
dispatched to London, where experts convert 
them from dirty, pale, tan looking hides into the 
beautiful deep glossy pelt we see on sale. 

The dye is applied by means of brushes, coat 
after coat, each being allowed to dry before 
adding the next, until the desired richness of 
tone is obtained. 

In addition to' the sealskin we are accustomed 
to see there is a hair seal that is made up fur side 
out for travelling or auto coats. It is exceedingly 

121 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

warm and needs only a light kind of a lining. 

Skunk (Alaska sable) is really a beautiful fux', 
while for practical wear it has few equals; but 
on account of a certain disagreeable odor this 
pelt does not find much favor. Furriers say that 
there is a fortune awaiting the man w^ho can 
eliminate this unpleasant feature of the fur for 
good and all. 

Blended Furs 

One often sees furs marked ^'shaded'' or 
"blended." This does not imply that they are not 
genuine, but only that they are less valuable, 
being of an inferior grade. Again, they have been 
subjected to the furrier's art by way of a touch 
of coloring, therefore will not keep their beauty 
as long as those furs that have been left in their 
natural state. 

White fox is lovely, but requires a good deal 
of care in buying. It will often turn yellow 
after a little wear, sometimes in spots and some* 
times all over. This is said to be due to imperfect 
bleaching, and there is nothing, I believe, that 
will restore the whiteness. 

Prices. 

In regard to the wearing qualities of furs, 
mink should, I think, rank first among the furs 
whose prices are not prohibitive. A short coat 
covering the hips well, will perhaps cost from 
$500 upwards but will last a lifetime. It will, 
too, stand remodelling, and every scrap of mink 
can be utilized now-a-days, even a wee bit that 

122 



A Chapter on Furs. 

will only just cover a button. A handsome muff 
and scarf will cost |125 — and more if one wishes 
to pay it — a hat of mink will fetch |20, while 
heads and tails may be bought from 50 cents 
upAvards. Any sum less than those named should 
not be paid if satisfactory wear is to be expected. 

Persian lamb does not vary much in price from 
season to season. A coat costing $250 should 
certainly wear well. A muff and scarf priced at 
|50 is none too much to give for accessories that 
will give service for a long time. 

A set of brown fox will cost about |50. This 
should include a handsome scarf and a large 
muff, which, with care, will last through three 
or four seasons. 

A caracul or a Russian pony coat full length, 
may cost from |50 to flOO, according to quality. 
Shorter lengths will, of course, be proportion- 
ately less. Muffs and boas of these furs are, 
on the whole, quite inexpensive, their price, how- 
ever, depending entirely upon the size of the 
respective articles and the quality of their skins. 

When it comes to the question of the price of 
sealskin it is almost impossible to name definitely 
any particular sum that shall be paid. The real 
article is, however, very expensive, and, unless 
one is prepared to pay a good sum, the purchase 
should certainly not be attempted. 

There is one thing to be said in favor of seal- 
skin, and the same remark will apply to Persian 
lamb, they are furs that lend themselves well to 
renovations and alterations. Long garments 
may be made into shorter ones; small pieces can 

123 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

be cut up into trimmings or accessories while 
larger pieces can be made into a hat, muff or boa. 

Skunk is a very strong fur, but, as I said 
before, is not especially popular. Lynx is pre- 
ferred as a black fur to skunk, but this is a very 
soft fur and does not wear well unless very 
carefully handled. 

Beaver, otter and opossum are very strong 
pelts which renders them adaptable for children's 
wear, or for adults when a good deal of service 
is expected. 

To Preserve Furs. 

Few women really understand the preserva- 
tion of furs. When it is possible furs should 
always be sent to a cold storage, not so much 
from the fear of moths as that the pelts should 
be kept as cold as possible. Each hair of any 
fur is supplied with a very small quantity of oil. 
This furnishes the lustre. Now, of course, if 
this is dried up naturally the fur takes on a dull 
lifeless appearance. Thus it will be seen that it 
is not only necessary to protect furs from the 
ravages of moths, but from the heat as well. 

The cedar chest placed in the cellar during 
the summer will be a better place than the attic, 
supposing there is no cold storage within a con- 
v^enient distance. 

For the same reason furs should never be 
placed near a stove in the case of their getting 
wet, but should be thoroughly shaken, then hung 
up in a draught if placing in the open air is im- 
possible. 

124 



A Chapter on Furs. 

To keep furs free from dust they should be 
thoroughly shaken and then beaten on the inside 
of the garment with a cane. Dust harbors moths, 
and by keeping furs free from dust there is, of 
course, less danger of moths taking up their 
abode there. In putting away it should be seen 
that no moth eggs lurk within, for if they do, no 
amount of camphor, naptha balls, or other moth 
destroyers will be of any use whatever. 

These agents will keep the pests away, but has 
no influence whatever upon any already in 
residence. 

Furs can be cleaned at home (if not allowed 
to become too much soiled) by rubbing in hot 
bran or flour, according as the fur is light or 
dark. Chinchilla will usually respond to the flour 
treatment and so will ermine. If quite dirty, 
however, they should be sent to a furrier, 
because the means at hand at home are insuf- 
ficient. 

The furrier first removes the lining, then 
places the fur in a drumlike apparatus. Fine 
sawdust and sand, both very hot, are added, and 
then the drum is set revolving. 

This cleans the pelt perfectly, making it look 
like new. 

Dark places for storing furs are better than 
light ones, always making quite sure that no 
moths lurk within. They just love dark corners 
in closets. 

After motoring it is imperative that the fur 
coat shall be subjected to a good caning in order 

125 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

to discharge the dust, for sanitary reasons, as 
well as for those of preservation. 

Becoming Furs. 

It is, I know, a popular belief that all furs 
are becoming to all Avomen. I beg to differ. 
There are certain furs that will become certain 
t^'pes of women, and there are other^s that will 
change a beauty into a positively plain woman. 
P^or this reason, I think furs should not be given 
as presents, especially when they are very costly. 
Being expensive tliey must be worn certainly for 
a number of years, and the furs, instead of being 
a pleasure, will be looked upon as an infliction. 

Take, for instance, sealskin, a pelt that is 
supposed to suit every woman alive, and place 
it on a dark- haired, dark-ej^ed woman with sal- 
low or colorless skin. She will look her very 
worst in it, because of the contrast between the 
glossy hue of the dark sealskin and the lustreless 
black hair added to the yellow white of the 
complexion. Yet the same woman in mink or 
rich brown fox would be charming, for the sallow 
skin warms and clears, tints of pink creep into 
the pale waxy skin, while the hair will actually 
seem to have taken on new life. 

Another mistake is often made by the brunette 
of vivid coloring, the red and cream skinned 
woman. She will often choose ermine, with the 
view, she says, ''of bringing out her rich color- 
ing." This is accomplished, certainly, but so 
strong is the contrast as to be inartistic. The 
contrast between the wearer's coloring and the 

126 



A Chapter on Furs. 

dead white fur is so vivid that the dark brown 
hair becomes actually black, while the tints of 
the skin are so intensified as to give the effect of 
coarseness. Her toilet may be striking, but she 
does not present a harmonious whole. The furs 
she should have selected are chinchilla, silver fox, 
or any of the gray furs if they must be light in 
color. 

An old lady is lovely in mink when the eyes 
are dark, and another good fur for this type, no 
matter Avhat the color of the eyes, is chinchilla. 
In fact, the last named pelt has been termed the 
fur of childhood and old age. 

The ash blonde and the red-haired blonde must 
exercise the greatest care in the selection of furs. 
As a rule very dark and very light furs are 
becoming to both types. The darker shades of 
sealskin are admirable and so is ermine, also all 
the genuine black furs. White and creamy furs 
may be worn successfully by both classes. Blue- 
gray furs ma}^ also be chosen, unless there is a 
tinge of green in the eyes, then steel gray tones 
will be the better choice. 

If tastes incline toward brown furs these types 
must be careful to select the very darkest shades. 

Light mink is one of the most unbecoming 
furs the red-headed blonde can choose, and the 
same may be said of red or undyed fox. The 
deep rich brown furs and the gray shades are 
hers, however. 

Age, too, is something to be reckoned with in 
the successful wearing of furs, — much more so, 
in fact, than may be at first imagined, especially 

127 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

middle-age, that most difficult stage to fight in 
a woman's life. 

Take the average woman of fifty or more. With 
iron gray locks and skin bereft of its freshness, 
and let her wear caracul, seal or ermine, it will 
add ten years to her appearance, yet, strangely 
enough, when the white or silvery haired old lady 
dons such furs ten years seem to have been taken 
from her age. 

The fair skin that usually accompanies pretty 
white hair becomes fresher and daintier still by 
the contrast. 

Mink or any of the rich brown furs are the 
best choice for the woman past her first youth- 
Baum marten is a good fur for this type of 
women and is, moreover, a pelt that wears well. 

The very fair brunette, dark-haired with blue- 
gray eyes and fair complexion, can wear the 
lighter shades of sealskin,, also the white and 
creamy furs, mink, sable and marten. The gen- 
uine brunette, dark-eyed and brown-haired, pos- 
sessing a good color, can wear with success every 
shade of brown fur, also gray or gray-blue. 
Mink, marten, chinchilla, red and yellow fox 
are hers as well as caracul. Brown is, however, 
first choice. The brunette of the olive or sallow 
skin can wear rich sable, mink, red fox and silver 
gray but not the blue-gray skins. 

The genuine blonde will look her best in furs 
that are either very dark or directly opposite in 
hue. She can wear caracul, black lynx, dark 
sealskin, pointed fox, ermine and white fox. 
When the eyes and eye brows are dark, chinchilla 

128 



A Chapter on Furs. 

and blue fox are becoming, but wben the eyes 
are blue and eye brows and lashes pale in shade, 
these gray furs by reason of their lack of contrast 
are apt to suggest insipidity. 

The red-haired blonde will also become any 
fur chosen from the above list, and dark brown 
fox may be added to the peltry that will suit her. 

The woman of the nondescript type may adopt 
most of the shades of sealskin, also chinchilla, 
caracul, sable, marten, and the white and creamy 
furs, that is, when the complexion is clear and 
she has a touch of color. If she is sallow, how- 
ever, it will be better to omit white and the 
creamy furs. 

Even in buying children's furs due attention 
should be given to the natural coloring of the 
small wearer to be. The dainty little blonde will 
look lovely in the white and cream furs and they 
will be equally becoming to the pink and white 
skinned brunette. If, however, either is sallow 
or very dark complexioned, then chinchilla, 
beaver or golden otter will be a far better choice. 



129 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTEK XIV. 
VEILS THAT WILL PKOVE BECOMING. 

CHOUGH only a very small detail, the veil 
is a most important one in a woman's 
toilet, for not only must it be chosen with 
a view to its becomingness over the face, but it 
must also be selected with due regard to the 
height and build of the wearer as well. 

Her age, too, must be taken into consideration, 
also the hour and the occasion upon which the 
veil is to be worn, therefore, it will be seen that 
the choice of a veil is not one that can be made 
without due consideration, if the best results are 
to be obtained. 

Speaking first then in regard to choosing the 
veil to suit the time and occasion, when in doubt 
I should say that a fine mesh or one showing an 
inconspicuous dot, will be the best possible choice. 
Chiffon, plain or dotted, will be in equally good 
taste. 

Black or brown net always looks well for 
morning wear, although a veil matching the hat 
will be quite correct. 

For afternoons, calling, church and better 
wear, lace and net either black or white or a com- 
bination of the two may be worn. Veils are 
seldom worn with an evening hat. If it is 
necessary to keep unruly locks in place, a net of 

130 



Veils That Will Prove Becoming. 

human hair is used, as a rule, which may be 
removed, if desired, with the hat. 

The question of selecting a becoming veil is not 
so easily disposed of. 

Selection. 

Beginning with the short girl or woman, she 
will appear to much better advantage if she will 
entirely dispense with a veil, because, strangely 
enough, veils have a tendency to cut the height of 
the wearer. When however, she does attempt it 
the arrangement will have a great deal to do with 
its success or failure. First, a simple mesh or a 
small dot should be chosen, nothing heavy in 
effect, while a border should be avoided like the 
plague. It will arrest the height of the wearer at 
the chin, a decidedly unnecessary step, for every 
inch of height is needed. 

The veil should be taken well up over the hat 
and trimming just as high as possible and all 
ends be firmly secured. The flowing lines of a 
veil are not for the short woman. 

To a tall figure the elaborate veil of lace or 
chiffon with or without a border will be in- 
finitely becoming because the fluffy accessory 
tends to broaden the figure. If allowed to fall 
gracefully upon the shoulders the effect will be 
extremely good. A border should not be so deep 
that it crosses the mouth, or the wearer will 
give the impression of being muzzled. In the 
case of a deep border edging a lace veil it will 
be better to arrange the border edge over the 
hat, reversing the order of things. 

131 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

When a net veil is worn by a tall woman it 
should be of a very generous size. It may be as 
wide, in fact, as it is long, for folds of veiling on 
hat and about the chin will be found very be- 
coming. 

Such a veil should be taken back gracefully, 
not stiffly or firmly as the veil of the short woman 
should be. At the same time there must be no 
protruding ends. 

In choosing a mesh the type of face should be 
considered. A baby face displaying small delicate 
features should never choose either large dots or 
a coarse mesh. The one exception, however, is 
the Russian net, which seems to become almost 
every type of face and feature. Small hair-like 
threads in an even mesh dotted with small spots, 
or the threads arranged in groups and without 
the dots are both favorable to this type of woman. 
Black and white effects will suit her in a fancy 
mesh or small dots. When she is short as well; 
the veil should not be black unless absolutely 
necessary. The veil of the little woman should 
suggest an accessory only in every sense of the 
word. 

Going to the other extreme — the tall, large- 
featured woman — her veil may be actually strik- 
ing, and no more a detail of the toilet than the 
coat or the hat. She can stand pronounced effects 
and may choose dots as large as she pleases. 
When the face is vei^ fat large chenille dots 
(raised) should be avoided, and those of velvet 
selected instead. When the nose is large a plain 
mesh or one with small dots is certainly the 
better choice. 

132 



Veils That Will Prove Becoming. 

Freak veils either in color or design, it goes 
without saying, are not in good taste. There can 
be no objection to colored chiffon veils, but nets 
in vivid colorings the well dressed woman will 
let severely alone. 

One of the most trying designs is that showing 
a surface strewn with dots in various sizes. 
There will be a ver^^ few large dots, a sprinkling 
of smaller ones and not a few very small indeed. 
Viewed from a short distance, a face so covered 
gives the impression of the owner having just 
arrived from a journe}^, but not on the train 
patronized by Miss Phoebe Snow. Only a pro- 
fessional beauty should attempt such a design, 
and another pattern which ordinary mortals will 
do well to avoid is the group of dots. Usually 
four of these groups are scattered over the face, 
and unless it is a pretty one the result is cer- 
tainly far from being attractive. 

When the eyes are small, a veil with large 
dots will not look well for obvious reasons. The 
safest choice by way of design is a fairly fine 
mesh with small dots less than an inch apart. 
It should be seen, however, that these dots are in 
the form of diamonds, and not in straight rows. 
This makes all the difference in the Avorld. When 
the latter is adjusted quite right the effect is far 
from pleasing, as the face appears striped ; while, 
when the ends are taken up on the hat in the back", 
it makes one look really grotesque, so, though a 
small matter, the dot arrangement is an import- 
ant one. Indeed, attention to detail proclaims the 
well dressed woman always. Though it has been 

133 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

pointed out what will be most becoming, still 
youthful faces and figures may, if they wi^h, 
allow themselves certain liberties in veils Avith- 
out any very dire results; for youth is always 
charming, and flowing chiffons, odd looking, even 
grotesque designs, call forth no more than a 
passing glance, but when a woman reaches 
middle age she realizes that the veil like the rest 
of her toilet must be chosen with care. 

Choice for Middle-aged Women. 

While there can be no hard and fast rule laid 
down, a few general rules may be helpful. For 
women Avho are just leaving their youth behind, 
in the transition stage, as it may be called, there, 
is nothing more charitable bv wav of a face cov- 
ering than the Russian net. Brown is preferable 
to black, and white is often quite becoming when 
the complexion is good. 

Women in middle life who possess small fea- 
tures, should never wear dots at all, a fine mesh in 
all black or black and white threads will be the 
best possible choice. 

Gray veils are not becoming to elderly women 
generally, though some authorities claim they are 
by reason of their harmonizing so well with gray 
hair. Personally, I prefer the same effect brought 
about b}^ the threads of black and white. Such 
a combination is more becoming over the face, 
and the lines of the black are just a contrast and 
not as characterless as all gray. 

A face showing the slightest trace of sallowness 
becomes hideous under a gray veil, and even a 

134 



Veils That Will Prove Hecoming. 

fresh, pink and white complexion is not improved 
by a protection of this color. 

The silver-gray haired woman with pink cheeks 
looks pretty in a gray hat and a perfectly chosen 
all white veil. This may be a bit of fine Brussels 
net with a tiny ring or dot. She, too, can wear 
the black and white effects, but unless her toilet 
is all black, she should not don a black veil. It 
will make her look dowdy. 

Large raised chenille dots are seldom becoming 
to middle-aged women of any type whatever. 
They suggest a coarseness and are especially un- 
kind to large features. The too florid woman, 
generally the one who has found this kind of 
veil becoming in her 3^outh, must make up her 
mind to give it up now and choose something 
more refining in its effect. This type, too, has 
probably looked extremely well in a veil sprinkled 
with velvet dots in the past. She must be pre- 
pared to also relinquish this strikingly coquettish 
design, because if worn, it will by its dashing 
effect only serve to betray the past youth. On the 
contrary, the woman of the between color type is 
apt to be improved by wearing it. You see, her 
coloring is so neutral that there has been no very 
decided visible change with the passing years as 
in the case of the handsome woman, and very of- 
ten the striking veil will give just the tone and 
character necessary to the success of her toilet. 

Only the woman with a long neck should at- 
tempt the lace veil. The dumpy woman with 
a short, fat throat will look ridiculous in such a 
heavy accessory. 

135 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

Chiffon veils are becoming to elderly women 
generally, and in fact it may be said to every type 
of womankind. 

A decided blonde will look well in a black veil, 
the brunette will be improved by wearing brown, 
white, or black and white. 

It is very poor economy to buy a cheap veil, 
for with care a good veil will outwear four cheap 
ones. One of the very best ways of prolonging 
the life of a veil is to run a thread of sewing silk 
along the edges, both top and bottom, neither 
fulling nor stretching the veil but just making 
it perfectly flat. It must be done before the veil 
is put on for the first time and then it will never 
lose its shape unless the thread breaks, when it 
can easily be renewed. 

Most women know how to take care of veils 
without being told, it is the disinclination to do 
it that is generally at fault, so I think it unneces- 
sary to go into details of keeping veils fresh. 

Not every woman, however, may know that in 
buying a white chiffon veil that is dotted, chenille 
dots should be preferred to those of velvet. The 
former are wired on, the latter attached with 
a gummy substance that dissolves when the veil 
is washed in warm water. 

A white chiffon veil dotted with chenille can 
be made to look like new by washing in white 
soap suds, rinsing thoroughly in warm water and 
then pinned out flat on a pillow or the bed. No 
ironing will be necessary and the dots will stand 
out full and fluffy. 



136 



CHAPTER XV. 
THE JEWELS I SHOULD WEAK. 

T7 1 HAT a fascination jewels have for the 
ft ft I majority of women ! Indeed the love of 
%^^ these valuables as personal adornments 
has often led women into making the mistake of 
wearing ornaments that were entirely unbecom- 
ing to their individual style of beauty, simply 
because the temptation to do so proved irresist- 
able. Others again make the same mistake 
through ignorance, believing, as many persons 
do, that jewels cannot be unbecoming no matter 
of what color, style or design, but may be worn 
with success by any type of woman; yet never 
Avas there a greater fallacy. 

The proper choice of jewels is quite as im- 
portant a matter as selecting the correct color 
for one's gown, possibly more so, for jewelry has 
a way of asserting itself more than any other 
accessory of the toilet. 

It stands out and seems to challenge compar- 
ison, and how often do we see this decided in 
favor of the wearer? Kot often, I am sorry to 
say, for hard, glittering diamonds worn in close 
proximity with wrinkled or withered looking 
skin and faded eyes are sights we see every day, 
and certainly they cannot be said to be pleasing 
by any means. 

137 



Talks on Successb^ul Gowning. 

Diamonds. 

Taking the queen of stones first, the diamond, 
I should say that it may be worn by almost any 
type of women, provided it is placed in the right 
position. 

When the skin is perfectly fresh and youthful 
— by this I mean not withered or shriveled at 
all — diamonds may be placed directly on the skin, 
as a necklace or a bracelet, and when the eyes 
are bright, diamond earrings will only enhance 
their brightness. When, however, the eyes are 
dull looking — ^and this does not always imply 
that the possessor is old in years at all, for some 
skins are muddier looking in youth than others 
are in middle age — then one must forego the 
pleasure of wearing diamonds in the ears, no 
matter how great the temptation, that is, if the 
best results are made the aim. 

While I say diamonds are becoming to every 
type, there are certain classes of women who can 
wear them better than others. For instance a 
genuine brunette with bright, healthy coloring, 
dark-eyed and brown-haired, can wear this cold 
looking stone with the greatest success, while only 
the exceptional blonde could produce the same 
effect. Pearls, as a rule, may be worn by brunette 
or blonde with equal success, provided the skin of 
the brunette is clear and perfectly free from 
any trace of sallowness. 

Rubies belong exclusively to the brunette type, 
not so particularly on account of their color, for 
many blondes look extremely well in red, but 
rather because they are apt to be overpowering 

138 



The Jewels I Should Wear. 

in their effect, worn by women whose coloring 
is not characteristically strong. The brunette 
coloring would harmonize with stones of such 
warmth, while the cold tones of the blonde would 
only serve as a contrast, and not an agreeable one, 
for the jewels would become of first importance, 
not the wearer, as the case should be. 

The blonde will look well in sapphires, tur- 
quoise, emeralds and amethysts, while the red- 
haired type of blonde will be perfectly lovely in 
emeralds or pearls. As a rule, this class has a 
milk-white skin which forms a delicious back- 
ground for a string of pearls, while there is no 
stone that will bring out the delicate tints in 
cheeks and lips as will the emerald, or tend to 
subdue the too fiery (perhaps) red glints in the 
liair. Deck her in turquoise and see how the red 
is intensified, and how "commonplace'' the whole 
effect is compared to the result of dressing her 
with emeralds. Diamonds and emeralds in com- 
bination will be apt to suit this type unless she 
is actually colorless, "matte," as the French call 
it. In that case, the diamonds alone will be the 
better choice. 

The amethyst is another stone that is becoming 
to the red-haired blonde, especially when the 
eyes are dark. In fact, I think I should allow 
the color of the eyes to decide the choice in jewels. 
A red-haired blonde with blue eyes would be ex- 
quisite in an evening frock of some soft milky 
white crepy stuff mounted over palest green, 
showing through only in glints with the wearer's 
movements, her jewels emeralds; while a brown- 

139 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

eyed red-haired woman would be a perfect beauty 
in the crepy frock not backed with a color, and 
her decorations amethysts or amethysts and 
pearls. 

The genuine blonde will become turquoise per- 
haps better than any other stone, and when she 
is pale and very fair, the turquoise and diamond 
in combination will brighten and seem to give 
her life. Only a small proportion of the diamond, 
however, should be attempted, just enough to 
effect the purpose of its being there, namely to 
add life and sparkle. A pink and white or rosy 
blonde whose hair is perhaps aggressively golden 
should choose pearls for the same reason as the 
lifeless blonde chose diamonds, except that the 
results are opposite. The pearls will subdue un- 
due exuberance of color just in the same degree 
as the diamond intensifies it. Hence the reason 
for the respective selections. 

A sallow blonde must never attempt diamonds, 
although brunettes whose skin is dark may wear 
them, provided it is also perfectly clear as well. 

Semi-precious Stones. 

Among the less expensive jewels that will be 
found becoming to the average brunette are am- 
ber and coral. Amber has the effect of whitening 
the skin, therefore it is suited to those inclined 
to sallowness. A deep red coral will do the same 
service, and a string of pale pink coral beads 
around the neck of a fair brunette will often suit 
her better than the most costly ornament. The 
delicate tints of her skin, brought into proximity 

140 



The Jewels I Should Wear. 

with palest pink coral gives the suggestion of a 
dainty wild rose. 

The most difficult class of women to suit in 
the choice of jewels is the between color type, 
those who are neither dark nor fair; pretty in 
their own way, but requiring the utmost care in 
adornment. Diamonds alone, on account of tbeir 
brilliancy, are out of the question, for their bright- 
ness will entirely eclipse any beauty the wearer 
may possess. Pearls, going to the opposite degree, 
fail to answer, both jewels and woman sinking 
into insignificance by the combination, while such 
stones as emeralds, sapphires and rubies are as 
impossible as diamonds on account of their im- 
portance. It would appear then perhaps better 
to rely upon the semi-precious stones for the 
adornment of the nondescript or between color 
type. These have a soft brilliancy of their own 
that seems to harmonize with the class in ques- 
tion, a glistening in a lesser degree than the 
precious stones and therefore infinitely more be- 
coming. The lustre of the topaz will bring out 
any brightness in eyes that are perhaps pale 
brown, while jade will emphasize any glints in 
hair neither light nor dark, something the more 
costly emerald will fail to do. 

Turquoise will often be becoming when used 
in small quantities and the soft blue of the moon- 
stone will be especially kind to the woman of 
delicate coloring. 

Coral too, she may wear, and amethysts should 
not be unbecoming. 

There is still another class, often distinguished 

141 



I'Ai.Ks ON Successful Gowning. 

looking in a way, to whom stones of all sorts and 
conditions seem to be entirely unsuitable. 

This type should choose their ornaments among 
the metals. Oftentimes a string of gold beads, 
or a necklace of dull silver will be just the very 
thing, or perhaps an odd looking pendant, a 
quaint necklet of coins or a dull oriental looking 
necklace will add a charm that would be simply 
impossible were colored stones substituted. 

Briefly, then, the pure blonde type may success- 
fully wear turquoise, diamonds, sapphires, ame- 
thysts, emeralds, opals, pearls, very pale coral, 
jade, lapis lazuli and onyx. AVhen sallow, the 
green stones must be omitted from the list and 
when quite pale and colorless, diamonds should 
be used in combination only. 

The brunette may don diamonds, rubies, pearls, 
amber, coral, turquoise in moderation, and jade. 
The latter only when she has color in lips and 
cheeks, while turquoise should not be worn if 
there is a trace of sallowness in the skin. 

The very dark brunette will look her best dec- 
orated with the rich red of the ruby brightened 
by a sprinkling of diamonds. 

The red-haired blonde will become green 
stones, opals and pearls, better than any others. 
Sapphires she may wear, but turquoise will be 
trying. 

Those between colors, as I said before, must 
choose jewels that are in keeping with their own 
particular style, which, while perhaps not exactly 
nondescript, is certainly not pronounced to any 
degree. A medium course will be the safer. Just 

142 



The Jewels i Should Wear. 

as the wearer is neither dark nor fair, so should 
her ornaments be neither too brilliant — so as to 
overpower her — nor too insignificant that they 
make her look like a dowdy. 

When the skin by nature is too dull to form a 
becoming background to a diamond necklace, the 
same effect may be obtained but with better 
results if the diamonds are distributed about 
the corsage, caught upon a light lace, say around 
the decollete but not on the actual skin. 

Worn as a tiara or other hair ornament 
diamonds will be generally becoming, no matter 
what the age of the wearer. 

It will be well to consider the question of 
wearing diamond earrings or not thoroughly 
before deciding. If the eyes are decidedly dull 
I should say "don't." If, however, a woman suc- 
cumbs to temptation against her better judgment, 
there is a partial way of getting over the difficul- 
ties in the way. Nowadays, when ears are seldom 
pierced, it is possible to screw the earring at any 
point of the lobe of the ear, as preferred, and 
when the becomingness of earrings is in doubt, 
they should be screwed as closely to the face as 
possible, so that they cannot be seen when viewed 
from the front. In this way the brilliant stones 
and the dull eyes cannot be taken in at the same 
glance, which will be a decided advantage to the 
owner. 

Selecting Jewels. 

Another point to be remembered in selecting 
jewels is their form or design. Persons who have 

143 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

a very long narrow face will only increase this 
defect by surmounting it with a centre ornament, 
be it a butterfly or a short tiara. What should 
be worn would be the bands in filet style, two 
or three in dull gold set with stones. These will 
lie flat on the head and possibly extend from ear 
to ear. 

The round fat face will become a tall hair 
ornament, as a jewel, aigrette, or a butterfly 
wriggling on a spring attached to a hair pin and 
set in at a becoming angle. 

A slender, girlish face can wear strings of 
pearls .twisted in and out of locks that may be 
either dark or fair. 

In regard to neck ornaments, a collar of pearls 
is the prettiest decoration for a thin or scrawny 
neck, the waist brought up to almost meet the 
collar. It is obvious that a fat, short neck 
should not be so dressed, but must choose in 
the opposite direction. The lavallieres afford 
a very wide choice for this type of woman, and 
almost any design will be found becoming from 
a slender gold chain and locket to an elaborate 
or a barbarous-looking fringe attached to a 
narrow collar. 

When the face is round and the chin a veritable 
cushion, the most becoming ornament is a chain 
just falling away from the neck and supporting 
a pendant, broad as it meets the chain and taper- 
ing to almost a point. 

A square face may be made to appear better 
balanced if the neck dressing below takes the 
form of an ornament deeper in the centre than 

144 



The Jewels I Should Wear. 

at the sides, as a chain hung with coins or other 
pendants arranged as a lace work deep in the 
centre and graduated as to width as it reaches the 
back. 

The dainty little Dresden China woman may 
wear the band of black velvet tight around the 
throat studded with jewels. When the neck is 
too full to make the velvet becoming, and it is 
desired to wear a diamond ornament as a brooch 
or a pendant it can be secured to the flesh by 
means of court plaster. A strip of the plaster 
is passed under the pin or loop of the ornament 
as the case may be, and the ends are fastened to 
the neck. 

Earrings. 

Earrings fell into disfavor some years ago, 
chiefly, probably, because women in general 
found them so unbecoming. For they certainly 
were in the majority of cases in the days when 
the ears were pierced. This was always done at 
the broadest part of the lobe in order to support, 
if necessary, quite heavy ornaments. This point 
was often seen to be quite away from the face 
therefore earrings were really only becoming to 
those possessing slender faces. 

When the face was broad the earrings only 
served to emphasize its breadth and when short, 
the decoration broke the lengthwise line and con- 
sequently the face appeared to be shorter than it 
really was. 

Now that screw earrings are the more popular, 
there is not so much objection to these adorn- 

145 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

ments, because the earrings can be adjusted quite 
close to the cheeks, which brings them more 
adaptable for wear in general. 

A short face may wear pendant drops. A broad 
face must have the earrings set in to the face as 
closely as possible and preferably the jewels 
should be small. Large hoops or rings must be 
left to the girlish figure or the matron of tall 
and rather unusual style. The ^^stud'' earrings 
will be found generally becoming. 

In the matter of brooches a large medallion 
should not be made the reclining spot for a nice 
double chin; a long brooch in pendant form will 
be better. A square chin may be seen to better 
advantage above an oval setting, but a sharp 
pointed chin should not have its lines intensified 
by adding a brooch in a lengthwise form, but 
apparently reduced by using a broad pin. 

Bracelets make pretty ornaments to wrists that 
are neither too fat nor too thin. The over-plump 
wrist and the one all too bony should be dressed 
with bracelets on the bangle order, just defining 
but not caressing the arm, while the normal 
wrist may be decorated in any preferred style. 
The bracelet may be a tight close-fitting band or 
it may be quite loose in bangle style. 

It is useless for me to say that rings should 
not be seen on fat short fingers, for every type 
of woman is going to wear rings if she has them, 
regardless of all consequences. 

Chains around the neck are decorative when 
not carried to excess. A large florid woman would 
do well to confine herself to a long slender design 

146 



The Jewels I Should Wear. 

— a gold chain unset with colored stones is a 
good choice. Slender women or those of the more 
refined looking type may indulge in chains more 
elaborate in design and setting. 

Strings of beads are becoming as a rule, 
whether for day or evening wear ; and neat sets 
of studs in gold or mounted with the semi- 
precious stones are always a nice finish to a 
blouse. 



147 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

CHAPTER XVI. 
HINTS ON BEING PHOTOGRAPHED. 

771 HAT to wear when being pliotographed 
A ft I is a problem that the average woman 
^^^^ often finds extremely puzzling. The 
solution is not a difficult one if being photo- 
graphed is an every-day affair, for, given a fash- 
ionable gown, an up-to-date coiffure and the 
^'latest thing" in accessories, she is correctly 
equipped sartorially for the occasion. 

But there are a number of women who have a 
positive dread of posing before a camera, and 
claim that (to them) a visit to the dentist's chair 
has no greater terrors. 

As a consequence, these persons give as few 
sittings as possible, — probably not more than 
three or four in a life-time, — and therefore the 
toilet must be w^ell and wisely chosen, otherwise 
the picture will only too readily "date" itself. 

Color, of course, plays an important part in 
the success or failure of a photograph, some 
"taking" better than others. Many a picture is 
a failure for the simple reason that the color 
worn is not one that comes out well in a photo- 
graph and every reason but the right one is often 
given as an excuse. 

Another requisite is perfect ease of manner. 

This is something that cannot be bought and 

148 



Hints on Being Photographed. 

not always acquired, yet it is absolutely necessary 
to the success of the picture. 

Now, a woman never feels perfectly "at home" 
in a gown she is wearing for the first time, there- 
fore it is obvious she should at least become 
thoroughly acquainted with the dress she wishes 
to wear in her photograph before she presents 
herself to the artist. 

She can only do this by wearing it. The gown 
will then take on the lines of the wearer, con- 
sequently the picture will be more natural-look- 
ing than it w^ould be w^ere she wearing a toilet 
strange to her. 

From an artistic as well as a natural viewpoint 
a new dress should not be worn, for the stiffness 
of the average textures prevents them from 
falling into graceful lines. 

Another most important point to remember 
when dressing for a photograph that is to be 
preserved, is the necessity for care in the selection 
of the small details or accessories of the toilet. 

These are the trifles that "date" the picture. 
For instance, if long earrings are in style, or 
large round ones a passing fad, it will be better 
to wear none at all than either style. 

Ornaments for the ears are not staple like 
rings or brooches, therefore it is wise to discard 
them wiien sitting for a photograph, even though 
the sitter wears them every day. 

The fashionable millinery of the moment will 
come under the same edict, no matter how 
fascinating or even becoming such headwear 
may be. 

149 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

The reason is obvious. 

Nothing changes so quickly as millinery styles, 
and the '4ove of a hat'' of this season is apt to be 
voted a ^'fright" the next. Hence the good reason 
why it should be excluded from the toilet. Not 
all hats, be it said, but the fashionable one. 

In choosing the gown it is safe to assert that 
a simple style will come out much better than 
an elaborate one, apart from the fact that the 
latter will also probably be a fashionable one 
which makes it doubly objectionable. 

When other than an every day photograph is 
desired, it will be better to choose a frock on the 
picturesque or historical order, as these models 
are not subjected to the same change as are 
modern fashions. 

By this I do not intend anything bordering on 
the fancy costume as it is understood, but there 
are a number of pictures of women of an earlier 
day whose toilets might be copied with good 
results, making adaptations to the needs of the 
present. It will be seldom necessary to carry out 
each detail. Probably it may be only a trick of 
the coiffure or the arrangement of a drapery 
that has to be borrowed. 

Again, the whole picture may offer suggestions 
to the sitter that may be carried out to her ad- 
vantage. 

A dress that is cut out at the neck is always 
better than one finished with a high collar artist- 
ically considered, because this style never goes 
out of fashion. Some women imagine a low neck 
is unbecoming to them. This may be so "in the 

150 



Hints on Being Photographed. 

flesh/' but it may be said that a decollete waist 
correctly planned is the most becoming style a 
woman can wear when she goes to be photo- 
graphed, no matter whether the neck is plump, 
skinny, fat, slender or bony. 

Plump, bare necks are always pretty and when 
the throat is thin or scrawny or the shoulders 
bony, then such defects may be concealed by 
means of a soft tulle tucker, a lace fichu or a 
feather boa thrown carelessly around the figure. 
The result will be both pleasing and graceful. 

A positively fat neck should never be pictured 
wearing a high collar, for it will only call at- 
tention to the circumference, and, as a fat neck 
is usually a short one also, the effect will be as 
of a head set into a band, for no neck at all will 
be visible. How much more graceful then will be 
the slightly low bodice exposing what will appear 
in the picture as a very pretty neck! A locket 
suspended from a slender chain may be worn if 
the chin is extremely plump or too round, because 
this ornament will break the line of the chin 
and lengthen it. 

For the same reason a V-shaped outline at 
the neck is preferable to the round or square 
cut. 

After saying this it seems unnecessary to 
add that a necklace fitting the plump neck closely 
should not be worn because it will only serve to 
emphasize the round line of the chin. 

On the contrary, when the neck is long and 
slender, the wide dog collar style of necklace is 
the very best possible choice. 

151 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

Such an ornament not only breaks the length 
of the neck, but it also apparently adds to its 
circumference, both most desirable features. 

Strangely enough a long neck looks longer 
than it really is and a plump one fatter when 
photographed than in the flesh, so that anything 
that tends to modify such an effect should be 
adopted. 

When the neck and shoulders are pretty the 
dress may be cut lower and the edge be trimmed 
with anything that is soft and fluffy, as a thin 
scarf or a feather boa. 

Fat shoulders should be defined by a flat trim- 
ming. If a softening of any kind is thought 
necessary it may be given by means of a narrow 
tucker of tulle. 

An out-door costume is not desirable, when the 
picture is to be preserved, otherwise there is no 
objection to it, provided each detail is in keeping. 

For instance — a picture hat will not look well 
with a tailored suit, neither will a fancy parasol 
or a pair of dainty slippers. The hat must be 
on the stiff order, the parasol a plain one of 
taffeta or linen and the shoes adaptable for street 
wear. 

On the same principle, a shopping or hand bag, 
no matter how costly or elaborate out of the pic- 
ture, should not be carried with a handsome after- 
noon toilet. Persons of taste do not go shopping 
in elaborate gowns. 

The picture hat will be correct, while a fluffy 
parasol or a dainty card case may be carried. 

Unless the sitter is youthful and a beauty as 

152 



Hints on Being Photographed. 

well a veil should not be worn. It looks patchy 
at best, although perhaps it is only just to admit 
that it is also coquettish in a few cases, a very 
few, however, and again, the photographer's art 
cannot be brought to bear upon the picture. 

When the face is veiled it is impossible to 
touch it up at all without ruining the effect, 
and most of us stand in a little need of art. 

Gloves will make the hands look larger than 
they really are, and a very tightly fitting garment 
is to be avoided on general principles whether it 
be gown, waist or wrap. Few of us possess forms 
so perfect that they may be clearly defined in a 
picture. 

Coiffure. 

The question of a coiffure is an important one. 
While the picture will be much more natural- 
looking if the sitter appears with hair arranged 
in her usual way it will probably be found that 
a little fluffing is necessary. This may seem to 
the possessor, probably will be, nothing short of 
untidy, but the picture will undoubtedly be much 
improved by such treatment. Most women after 
reaching maturity are apt to w^ear the hair too 
flat and strained looking. 

Full fat faces will become the hair dressed high 
on the head and brought toward the front, while 
the oval type of face will find the low dressing 
in the nape of the neck graceful and becoming. 

While too much forehead exposed is not agree- 
able, the lack of it is a greater fault. Hair 
must not be brought down too far or too heavily 

153 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

on the forehead, because the effect will be in- 
tensified in the photograph. Just a few fluffy 
hairs framing the face will give the best effect. 
A number of hair ornaments should be avoided. 
They add nothing to the beauty of the picture, 
A single high comb will often add dignity to a 
coiffure, but small ornaments, as they are under- 
stood, are apt to look tawdry in a photograph. 

Some people have an idea that by making up 
for a photograph the picture will reflect these 
borroAved plumes. So it does, but not in the way 
imagined. There is no objection to a little powder 
but rouge applied will result in two black spots 
on the cheeks and black lips. 

Dark people, as a rule, take better than those 
of fair complexion, on account of their more de- 
cided coloring. 

When eye brows and lashes are very faint — 
often the case when the person is extremely fair 
— then they may be accentuated by using a dark 
pencil. The picture will be improved thereby 
and no one will suspect the ruse. Sometimes 
eyebrows are so very light that they fail to show 
at all in a photograph, although plainly visible 
to the eye upon the face. Such faint lines then 
really need a touch of art. 

Coming to the length of a photograph, unless 
the sitter is very tall or dressed in sweeping 
draperies a full length should be avoided. The 
three-quarter length is becoming to the average 
figure, and just the head and shoulders is the 
safest of all if the form is of doubtful propor- 
tions. No one then can tell whether the waist 

154 



Hints on Being Photographed. 

is thick or the abdomen unduly large, or in fact 
discover any other defect. As long as the photo- 
graph is attractive the rest may be left to the 
imagination. Wearing a good deal of jewelry is 
a mistake and the same remark will apply to a 
profusion of flowers. These accessories tend to 
attract the e^^e and so take it from the sitter. 

Colors. 

In regard to colors that take well, it has long 
been a popular belief that black comes out better 
than a color or than white. A celebrated photo- 
grapher differs from this general opinion. He 
says, "The soft pastel shades are to be preferred 
to any others, as mauve, rose, and pretty greens, 
because, while they come out white, they do not 
impart the ghastly effect that pure white is apt 
to do, but add very much to the artistic effect of 
the picture." 

He adds, "If, however, a person habitually 
wears black and a perfectly natural picture is 
desired, then black should be worn in the photo- 
graph, relieved with a little Avhite about the face.'' 

All shades of red, from cherry color to crimson, 
come out black. In fact, almost all dark colors, 
such as seal brown, dark heliotrope, purple, dark 
green and navy blue, all come out black in a 
photograph. 

Plain materials are to be preferred to figured, 
striped or plaid fabrics. In the first place the 
design has a tendency to cut the figure, and one 
needs all possible length when being photo- 
graphed, for even a tall person appears to be 

155 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

only of average height in a picture, and again, 
the features are not so clearly defined or brought 
out when the face appears above a figured dress. 
There is not sufficient contrast betAveen the face 
and clothing. A gown of a plain fabric will be 
a much more effective setting. 

It goes Avithout saying that one should not be 
in a hurry Avhen preparing for a visit to the photo- 
grapher's. There should be ample time allowed 
for dressing, and no detail should be overlooked. 

Form rather than color should be considered 
when making the toilet. It will not make the 
slightest bit of difference in the finished black 
and white picture whether the gown was red and 
the accessories flaming orange as long as the 
balance is perfect, or whether the fichu that 
drapes the bust be folds of mosquito netting or 
beautiful silk illusion. The main thing is to 
get a good silhouette. 

Posing. 

In the matter of posing it is impossible to give 
any hard and fast rule, and anyway a good artist 
will not welcome any suggestion from his sitter 
as a rule. He understands his art (or should) 
better than she does. 

Speaking generally, an awkward figure Avill 
appear more graceful when sitting than standing 
and will not be so apt to lose the pose once the 
artist arranges it. 

It is much more difficult to stand than to sit 
in a position which for the time being seems to 
be unnatural, and ever so slight a deviation from 

156 



Hints on Being Photographed. 

a correct standing pose is emphasized ten-fold 
in the finished picture. 

A person should not sit for a photograph unless 
feeling in the best of health and spirits, for mel- 
ancholy and sickness will surely be revealed there 
by haggard features and drawn looks. 

If the sitter can forget herself for a moment 
and the photographer take advantage of it, then 
it is that the most natural picture is produced. 
This is seldom possible to achieve, however, and 
so, the next best thing is to try and feel perfect!}^ 
satisfied with yourself and the world in general 
and hope for the best results. 

To go back to the preparation for the visit. 
When the toilet is quite complete I should con- 
sider the hire of a private conveyance a good 
investment. The studio can then be reached 
without hustle or bustle, tear or wear, and surely 
the tranquility of mind gained is Avell worth the 
money expended. 

Let there not be trace of anxiety apparent, just 
be simply natural (easy to say this isn't it?) 
looking as animated and bright as possible, 
ueither grinning nor frowning, the body appar- 
ently at ease and a successful protrait may 
reasonably be expected. 



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Talks on Successful Gowning. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

WHAT STYLE OP COIFFURE SHALL I 
ADOPT? 

CHERE is no detail of greater importance in 
a woman's toilet than the coiffure. 
This is a broad statement, I know, but 
it is nevertheless a true one. 

A woman may wear an expensive gown, costly 
jewels and a veritable Paris creation of a hat, but 
if the hair is unbecomingly dressed the toilet is 
bound to be a dead failure. 

By this I do not mean that the hair should be 
dressed in the latest or most fashionable style. 
This should only be done when it is found to suit 
the wearer. Fashion's demands are, however, so 
elastic nowadays, that, as a rule, prevailing styles 
can be always so adapted as to suit individual 
needs. 

It is always a good plan when a new coiffure is 
launched to try it in its true form, then, without 
entirely releasing the hair and dressing all over 
again, to make slight changes as suggested to 
one's mind from viewing the present effect sup- 
posing the mode is found to be only "half 
becoming." Oftentimes a little puffing here or a 
slight raise there will make all the difference in 
the world. It may be only the question of hair 
drawn too tightly either up or back, or the point 

158 



What Style of Coiffure Shall I Adopt? 

of the head upon which the back hair is arranged 
that is in fault, but whatever it may be it will be 
brought to light by doing a little experimenting, 
and incidently take plenty of time for the process. 
Lots of patience, too, is a valuable asset when 
wrestling with a new coiffure. 

Hair that has been trained in one direction 
for many months or perhaps years does not take 
kindly to changes but needs lots of coaxing and 
fussing to make it take on the desired lines. So 
one should not be discouraged if success does not 
crown first efforts but go on trying until perfect 
satisfaction is the result, as it will be if persisted 
in long enough. 
Types of Faces. 

Strictly speaking, there are two types of faces, 
the round and the oval, and, if all womenkind 
were included in these two classes a successful 
coiffure would be a very simple matter, because 
standard rules could then be made for their 
guidance which, if followed, must make for suc- 
cess. But to lay down any hard and fast rules 
that would be practical is well nigh impossible, 
because there are so many variations of the oval 
and the round face, each requiring a different 
treatment. 

There are, however, certain directions which 
may be followed with both pleasure and profit 
by those willing to experiment. 

As a rule, a new style of hair dressing is 
launched by a popular actress or perhaps the 
latest professional beauty. Now it stands to 
reason that what will be suitable for the stage, 

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Talks on Successful Gowning. 

or becoming to a perfect beauty, is not going to 
be the same success when adopted by all sorts 
and conditions of women. When it is becoming 
then by all means wear it, but unless it is, pass 
it by at any cost, for, as I said before, sartorial 
success begins — and I may add Avith equal truth 
— ends with the coiffure. Taking the types of 
faces in their order there is the oval face, the 
square face, the hatched shaped, the thin face, 
the round face, the short face, the face too broad 
and the face too fat. Then there is a kind of 
oblong shaped face and another that is almost 
pointed. Features, too, must be considered. The 
forehead may be high or low, broad or narrow. 
The nose may be only a snub, or, again, it may 
go to the other extreme and be on the acquiline 
or the Roman order. The cheek bones may be 
all too prominent or the chin receding. The jaws 
may be heavy or the ears too large. Dear me ! I 
had no idea there could be so many flaws in our 
faces until I began to write about them, but I 
am afraid it is true all the same, and I suppose it 
is better for us to recognize them as such — be- 
cause then we shall look around us for a remedy 
— than never to have discovered them, unless, 
perhaps, "where ignorance is bliss." Still I 
fancy we all Avant to look our best, I know all 
nice women do anyway. 

The perfect oval and the perfect round face 
can carry successfully any style of coiffure. The 
hair may be dressed high or low, or be coiled 
midway in the back between the crown of the 
head and the nape of the neck with equal suc- 

160 



What Style of Coiffuee Shall I Adopt? 

cess. The Grecian coil is especially becoming to 
the oval type of face. 

When, however, the oval is inclined to slender- 
ness— speaking more plainly perhaps— boniness 
—then a softening effect becomes necessary. 

The hair must be fluffed about the face. If it 
will not do this naturally, artificial means 
must be resorted to. Then the hair should be 
parted in the centre and taken back from the 
face as softly as possible to the nape of the neck 
in a broad rather than a long effect. This treat- 
ment of breadth will modify the length of the 
face. A thin face looks longer than it really is, 
and this length will be further emphasized by 
arranging the hair lengthwise, while breadth will 
cut the length. A broad bow of ribbon in the 
nape of the neck is often very charitable to the 
thin face. And so, in fact, is anything fluffy that 
will serve as a background for the lower half 
of the face. 

There will be no trouble, as I said before, about 
dressing the hair to suit the perfectly round face, 
provided the features are regular; but when the 
round face is inclined to be fat, certain modifica- 
tions become necessary. In the first place there 
must be no straining of the hair from any point 
on the head of a woman possessing a round, fat 
face, or it will take on the appearance of a 
beautiful, clear full moon or perhaps a nice pud- 
ding of a generous size. Both are pleasing sights, 
of course, in their own way, but nobody wants to 
look like either. 

The most becoming coiffure for this type of 

161 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

face is to fluff the hair all around the face and 
dress high upon the head. This arrangeiaent 
gives the necessary height and the requisite soft- 
ening erfect respectively. 

When the face is oblong the hair should be 
dressed low in the back, never higher than mid- 
way between the crown of the head and the nape 
of the neck. In the front the hair may be parted 
if the forehead is unduly high and taken back 
from the sides of the face as softly as possible. 
If the forehead is Ioav then a small pompadour 
effect Avill prove becoming. 

When the face is actually square the hair 
should be dressed as high as possible. This will 
suggest length, and, incidentl}^, take away the 
square effect of the face, creating instead a modi- 
fied oval. 

When the face is a long square, that is, about 
the length of the oblong but differing in contour, 
the square corners, as it Avere, being absent from 
the true oblong, then the hair should be dressed 
low in the back and puffed at the sides. A high 
arrangement would only serve to increase the 
length. 

The thin, hatchet shaped face must have the 
hair dressed as low as possible always. 

When the face is short as well as round, the 
hair should be arranged high upon the head. 
There is no better style for this type of face than 
the pompadour, the back hair brought up to the 
crown of tlie head and pinned down there in 
coils. 

A broad face or one unusually fat should have 

162 



What Style of Coiffure Shall I Adopt? 

the hair dressed as high as possible over the 
forehead and only very slightly puffed at the 
sides, just sufficient to form a background to the 
full cheeks. The same rule will apply to high 
cheek bones. The hair should be made to extend 
quite beyond the prominent bony structure, but 
should be dressed fairly high over the forehead 
in order to preserve a proper balance and so 
save the face from appearing too broad. 

Women with small noses may have the hair 
dressed in Grecian style, the soft knot arranged 
In the back, midway between the crown of the 
head and the nape of the neck, but any person 
with a receding chin or a prominent nose cannot 
choose a coiffure more unbecoming. Just imagine 
for yourself an outstanding coil of hair arranged 
in tiie back of the head on a line with a large or 
hooked nose. Not only is the line from the nose 
to the twist of hair out of all proportion to the 
length of the face when viewed from the side, 
but the arrangement of the hair actually calls 
attention to the size of the nose. Whenever the 
nose is out of proportion to the face or the rest 
of the features, the hair should lie as flat as 
possible on the head. It may be arranged on 
the top of the head or in the nape of the neck 
as found becoming, but the coil, twist or braid 
7niist be laid perfectly flat. 

With a receding chin it is quite clear that it 
will be a mistake to draw the hair tightly back 
or away from the lower part of the face, because 
this will only bring the defective feature into 
bold relief. The hair should be arranged as 

163 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

loosely as possible and quite low on the head, 
not outstanding in the least, be it understood, 
but pinned down to the head perfectly flat. 

Here again, a proper balance of feature is re- 
stored or achieved. 

In selecting a becoming style of hairdressing, 
height has to be considered. A very tall, slender 
girl or woman will apparently reduce her inches 
if she will effect a very low coiffure, while the 
girl who lacks height will do well, of course, to 
take exactly opposite measures and dress her hair 
as high on the head as possible, always provided 
such arrangements suit the style of features. 

Elderly Women. 

Elderly women naturally find more difficulty 
in the way of obtaining a successful coiffure than 
do younger matrons or girls, because locks have 
become thinner and faces grown fatter as a rule, 
unless, as sometimes happens, the latter have lost 
their roundness and the pretty plumpness has 
given place to scrawniness. 

Both conditions are equally disagreeable, and 
when nature ceases to be kind there is certainly 
no reason why artificial aids may not be resorted 
to. 

A few years ago few women could be found 
who cared to acknowledge they carried false 
locks upon their head, while nowadays it is well 
known that decidedly more tlian half of women- 
kind do not depend upon their own hair for 
good effects. 

Again, false hair can be dyed so perfectly, 

164 



What Style of Coiffure Shall I Adopt? 

that no woman need hesitate about wearing it 
for fear of its not matching her own, and indeed, 
those whose locks are scanty should be thankful 
that such an aid is theirs to command. 

The Pompadour^ 

While it is impossible to suggest in a book of 
this kind any particular style of hairdressing, 
still the pompadour, I fancy, will never go out 
of fashion as long as there are elderly women 
to wear it, for there is no arrangement so gen- 
erally becoming to this type, and again, it is a 
mode that allows of so many modifications that 
one can always be found to suit any type almost 
without exception. 

When the forehead is too high to make the 
brushed up and back pompadour becoming then 
the hair may be parted at little to one side and 
be dropped slightly over the forehead before tak- 
ing it back. This dropping, however, should be 
approached cautiously. To certain features it 
will impart a coarseness to the face, while to 
others it gives just a softening effect. So one 
should make quite sure of the result before 
adopting it. 

It will be better to display too much forehead 
by raising the hair than to make the face look 
coarse by trying to conceal a certain portion of it. 
The hair dressed high always suggests dignity 
even though it may not always be becoming. 

A woman possessing a fat round face should 
not emphasize its lines by wearing a perfectly 
round pompadour. She should divide the front 

X65 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

hair into three strands taking one back over a 
small cushion above the forehead and putnng 
those strands at the sides before pinning them 
back. A very broad face or one that has high 
cheek bones will need a little more puffing than 
the normal face. 

An arrangement becoming elderly Avomen of 
the slender t^^pe whose faces are long and thin 
is to part the hair and then roll it back from the 
face, taking it to the back of the head over the 
tips of the ears, and coiling in coronet fashion on 
the crown of the head. AYhen the hair is not 
becoming rolled back the result will often be 
satisfactory if the hair, after being parted, is 
waved, then brought down the sides of the face. 
The ^'grande dame" style of Avoman Avill carry 
the rolled back coiffure Avell, while the motherly 
face Avill probably be improved if the pretty 
waved hair frames it. 

A style becoming to middle-aged Avomen gener- 
ally is the entire head of hair all taken softly 
back from the face and up from the neck to the 
crown of the head and there coiled, the hair 
afterAvards being pulled here and there until the 
effect is entirely becoming tO' the owner. There 
must be no drawn look about this coiffure, for 
the locks should be a loose mass from the nape 
of the neck and from over the forehead to the 
top of the head Avliere it is secured. 

Combs and fancy hair pins are ahvays an im- 
proA^ement to the coiffure of an elderly woman 
and may be used at discretion. 



166 



CHAPTER XVIII. 
WEDDING ETTIQUETTE. 

TT I HAT a delightful buzz of interest is 
£11 always evident around the preparations 
^^^ for a wedding, and what a most ex- 
acting, difficult to please young person the 
prospective bride is! 

She will plan certain details to-day and change 
them to-morrow — should it please her sweet will 
— refuse professional advice and later on prob- 
ably accept it — consult this friend and that 
authority, change her mind a dozen times in as 
many hours, so that really, by the time the happy 
day arrives, the poor little woman often finds 
herself so utterly worn out and fatigued that she 
is inclined to give thanks that a wedding comes 
only once in a life-time. 

These conditions will be the rule, I suppose, 
while there are maidens to marry, but in this 
chapter I want to offer such advice and guidance 
as will save as much as possible the inevitable 
mental strain such a function involves. 

It goes without saying that each bride will 
wish to introduce some little individuality into 
the ceremony. That is perfectly natural and it 
will be quite an easy matter to work out her 
idea. It is the conventional rules that are often 
so puzzling unless one goes out into society a 
good deal and can see how things are done, 

167 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

Both the bride and her family are anxious to 
do the "correct thing," but are not always certain 
how to carry it out, and then the opinion of 
relatives or friends are sought. 

Perhaps it is a cousin who brings her view of 
the question, and should it differ from that held 
by the bridesmaid or the maid of honor, then the 
subject is discussed, weighed and reviewed and 
perhaps after all no real decision arrived at. 

It may be only the detail of the bride's veil, 
or the seating of the guests, but to the bride and 
her family these are mighty matters indeed. 

Coming, however, as they do, under the head 
on "conventionalities," the solution to these and 
many other puzzling questions may be solved by 
a perusal of this chapter. 

The Invitation. 

The very first detail of the wedding is sending 
out the invitations. These are engraved, are 
folded once into an envelope to fit and enclosed 
in a second envelope which is addressed to the 
guest and sent through the mail. 

The wording is as follows: 

3IR. AND MRS. CHARLES BLANK 

request your presence at the 

marriage of their daughter 

MARGARET ANNE 

to 

MR. EDWARD BROWN. 

Tuesday afternoon, Septeniher tenth, 

at 2 o'clock. 

St John's Episcopal Church, 

Albany^ New York, 

168 



Wedding Etiquette. 

In addition to the above a card which reads, 
^Tresent this card to the usher," should be placed- 
in the envelope. 

When the invitation to the reception as well 
as the church is given the hours will be stated 
on the card. 

Invitations to the wedding should be sent out 
three weeks ahead, in order that invited guests 
may have plenty of time to prepare for the func- 
tion. 

In the case of an invitation to the church only 
no reply to it is to be expected, but when guests 
are asked to the house a response should be made 
as soon as possible, and only under exceptional 
circumstances should such an invitation be 
declined. 

As soon as the cards are out the wedding 
presents will begin to be sent in. Those attend- 
ing the reception will, of course, pay tribute to 
the bride's popularity, being, of course, intimate 
friends, but a church invitation does not call for 
such a response unless the invited guest feels so 
disposed. 

Acknowledging Gifts. 

Each gift received must be promptly acknowl- 
edged by the bride herself in a neat little note 
written in the following tone : 

Dear So and So : 

Your lovely gift came this morning and I am 
so delighted with it, I want to thank you at 
once. It was indeed kind of you and nothing 
you could have chosen could have given me 

169 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

greater pleasure than the beautiful (here men- 
tion article) you have sent me. How well you 
know my tastes! 

Sincerely yours, 

Margaret A. Blank. 

Of course, the wording will differ a little in 
acknowledging presents but mention should 
always be made of the particular gift one wishes 
to thank the donor for, otherwise the acknowl- 
edgement is apt to appear a little stereotyped, 
and as every one connected with a Avedding is 
always more or less a little irresponsible at the 
time it is well to have a calmer person around 
who may be depended upon to see that the letters 
are addressed to the right persons. It is rather 
awkward to receive thanks for a most delightful 
book Avhen the offering was perhaps a costly 
piece of silver. 

The Caterer. 

As soon as the invitations for the reception 
have been responded to, the consultation with the 
caterer takes place. If it is desired to place the 
serving of refreshments entirely in his hands, 
then, of course, the labor of the bride's mother 
is greatly lessened, for it is scarcely necessary to 
mention, the family of the bride always provides 
the weddino- feast. When a caterer undertakes 
this, he does it at so much per head, probably 
a dollar. For this he will provide bouillon, a 
salad, fancy cakes, ices in individual forms, 
coffee, tea, chocolate and perhaps sandwiches, 

170 



Wedding Etiquette. 

He furnishes dishes and silver and brings his 
*nvn assistants. 

The wedding cake is a separate item. Some 
people prefer a large cake ^yhich the bride cuts, 
and sends around in small pieces to the guests. 
Others prefer a small cake placed on the bride's 
table, which she cuts, and is eaten by the oc- 
cupants of that table (tiny portions of course), 
while a box of satin or a satin paper neatly 
packed with wedding cake is passed to each 
guest as they depart, by some person stationed 
in the hall for the purpose. 

The remainder of the actual w^edding cake is 
put away until the time the new-made bride 
herself receives. 

If the refreshments are to be prepared at home 
the menu for an afternoon or evening reception 
will include chicken salad, all kinds of dainty 
sandwiches, small iced cakes, ices, tea, coffee, 
chocolate, lemonade and a simple punch. The 
guests are served while sitting around the rooms, 
by hired help or friends of the bride's family. 

The Maid of Honor. 

The busy time before the event is shared by the 
maid of honor. She is generally the most in- 
timate friend of the bride and therefore will fit 
into the confidential position assigned to her. 
It will devolve upon her to spare the bride all 
needless trouble. She should be prepared to 
write notes (except acknowledge presents), do 
errands, shop, decide any small detail, and other- 
wise assist as circumstances present themselves, 

17X 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

The Bridesmaids. 

The bridesmaids chosen will be expected to 
be constantly on hand (when this is possible, of 
course), so as to attend conferences on costumes, 
wedding etiquette and the hundred and one 
details incidental to such an important event. 

The bride usually decides upon the color and 
style of the gowns worn by her attendants, but 
only after consultation with her maids. In this 
way she learns the personal tastes of each and 
decides accordingly. 

What the maid of honor does for the bride the 
best man does for the bridegroom. He is usually 
an intimate friend and advises in all matters 
relating to the gToom's outfit, takes charge of 
the wedding ring until the bridegroom enters 
the church, looks after the ordering of the bride- 
groom's carriage, fees the clergyman, sees that 
the order is given for the carriage to be quite 
ready to bear away the happy pair upon their 
honeymoon and in fact, usually buys the tickets 
and prepares the way for the going away in 
every detail. 

The Decorations. 

The decorations for the house may be arranged 
by the family, or be given into the hands of a 
florist, depending upon the wealth and inclina- 
tions of the family. Persons living in the country 
have quite a good deal of flora at their disposal 
and often only for the gathering, with which a 
friend possessing artistic instincts may work 
wonders. Country churches, too, are often decor- 

172 



Wedding Etiquette. 

ated by friends, but, of course, in the city a florist 
must be engaged. 

The carriages for the wedding party, that is, 
the bride, her maids and her immediate family, 
are provided by the bride's parents. The bride- 
groom pays for his own. 

That the procession be effective the better plan 
is to have the bridesmaids and the ushers in equal 
numbers, four, six or eight as has been decided 
upon. The ushers are selected by the bridegroom 
from among his intimate friends exactly as the 
bride has chosen her maids. 

The guests should reach the church in good 
time, because after the bride's mother arrives and 
is seated only the bridal party may enter. This 
lady is always escorted to her pew by the chief 
usher. The relatives of the bride occupy the 
seats on the left of the church as the clergyman 
faces the congregation and the bridegroom's 
family sit on the right. 

The Ushers. 

The ushers lead the procession in twos, and 
the bridesmaids follow in the same form. The 
maid of honor walks alone leaving a space be- 
tween herself and the bridesmaids. The bride 
follows, her right arm through that of her father 
or the man who takes his place that day in giving 
her away. As soon as the ushers lead the 
way the wedding march is played. At this signal 
the bridegroom will leave the vestry with his best 
man and take up his position on the chancel 
steps awaiting the bride. As the chancel is 

173 



1?ALKS ON Successful Gowning. 

approached the procession divides itself, the 
bridesmaids forming a group on the left while 
the ushers stand on the right. The maid of honor 
takes her place a little in advance of the brides- 
maids in order to be nearer the bride. She holds 
the bride's bouquet, glove or prayer book as 
called upon, when the betrothed couple go to the 
altar, and after the ceremony throws back the 
bridal veil and restores the bouquet. 

On the return march the order of procession 
is changed. The new^ly married couple lead, 
followed by the maid of honor escorted by the 
best man, each usher doing like duty for a 
bridesmaid. 

The ushers take the maids to their carriages 
and then return for the relatives of the married 
couple. The guests then begin to disperse, 
carriages conveying those who are invited to 
the reception to the house w^here they are met 
by the bride's mother. After greeting her they 
pass on to the place where the bridal party 
is seated and offer their good wishes. After 
this ceremony, the guests mingle, chatting to- 
gether, and in a short time refreshments are 
served. 

The bride usually takes advantage of any spe- 
cial bit of merry making to slip away and change 
her Avedding frock for her travelling costume. In 
a short time the mother will probably be missing 
and then it is time to watch for the bride's de- 
parture. When she appears it is the signal for 
the rice and slipper throwing to begin. 

174 



Wedding Etiquette. 

Brides Outfit. 

And now in regard to the bride's outfit. While 
the man is expected to buy the furniture, the 
bride must provide the house linen which will be 
marked with her maiden name or initials. 
If wedding gifts are to bear monograms the order 
must still be given for the bride's maiden name. 
Her trunk, if lettered will give the initials of her 
single, not married name, as will also all the 
articles included in the trousseau that bear any, 
mark at all. 

In planning a trousseau the linen is usually 
bought first. The number of each set will depend 
entirely upon the means of the bride. Twelve 
each of drawers, vests, night dresses, corset 
covers and stockings are not too many, at the 
same time, six of each will be sufficient for a 
bride of modest means. There will be what is 
known as a bridal set of underwear provided in 
addition to the set of six, also one pair of stock- 
ings of very fine thread or silk for the wedding 
and one pair for best afternoon or evening wear. 
Six pairs of common stockings should then be 
sufficient. Two pairs of corsets will be necessary, 
two gingham or chambray petticoats for morning 
or house wear, two white petticoats; one of 
sateen or moreen and if means will allow a silk 
petticoat may be included. As foot covering 
there will be two pairs of walking shoes or one 
pair of shoes and one pair of ties, the wedding 
slippers and one pair for ordinary wear. One 
long wrapper and a couple of short ones may be 
classed as necessities, and a pretty negligee may 

175 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

be added to the list without seeming at all 
extravagant. Quite a number of these articles 
may be made at home, if there is time, with the 
result that the cost will be less and the wear 
much better than if the garments are bought 
ready to wear. 

For underlinen that will give good service 
there is no better fabric than the English long- 
cloth. It is soft, washes extremely well and 
keeps a good color. These come in twelve yard 
lengths varying in price from |1.50, to |3.00, the 
piece. 

Nainsook and cambric make dainty under- 
garments suitable for best wear, and a little good 
lace will be found to be the prettiest trimming. 
Underwear for common use may be trimmed 
with narrow embroidery as being more service- 
able than lace. 

I do not think there is any economy in making 
white petticoats at home, unless it be the one to 
go with the bridal toilet. Very pretty petticoats 
can be bought quite as cheap as they can be made 
at home but when it comes to a really good 
quality then there is a great saving if one has 
time for making. 

It is a good plan to have a plain white well 
fitting petticoat of fine but substantial material 
and make two separate flounces knee depth that 
can be made to button off and on. One ruffle 
could be of a very fluffy nature — finest lawn and 
lace — the other of nainsook inlaid with pretty 
embroidery. Then there would always be a 
choice of two petticoats on hand. 

176 



Wedding Etiquette. 

In marking linen — chemises and corset covers 
bear the initials over the left breast. Drawers 
are marked at the left knee ; night dresses direct- 
ly in center front or a little to the left side, and 
stockings just above the knee. Flannel petti- 
coats, if they are worn are embroidered with the 
initials ten inches below the band a little to the 
left front. 

When it comes to outer garments, of course 
the size of the purse will determine largely the 
extent of the wardro^be, but, as I am talking to 
those of moderate means my idea of a sufficiency 
of which any girl may be proud would be the 
wedding gown, a travelling suit that would come 
in for best afterwards, a separate wrap, which 
might be worn on the street, also to any evening 
affair, a pretty between dress, a simple afternoon 
frock, and a couple of gingham morning dresses 
for wear when doing the housework. 

The materials selected would be decided by 
the time of year at which they will be worn. 

The Wedding Gown. 

The wedding gown will be white, of course. 
Suitable materials are voile, crepe de chine, net, 
point d'esprit, lingerie, lansdowne, any of the 
silk and wool mixtures and India silk. A very 
youthful bride may choose among the more 
fragile fabrics, as net lingerie and the soft silks ; 
while one more matured would become voile, 
lansdowne or crepe de chine. If the gown must 
be worn a good deal afterwards then it will be 
better to select a durable material and have it 

177 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

made up without too much fussiness or in any 
extreme style, that, more likely than not, will 
go out of fashion quickly and thus date the 
gown. 

A wedding dress should never be short, unless 
of course in the case of a travelling suit being 
worn, but I am speaking of the conventional 
frock. Moreover, it must be high-necked always ; 
the sleeves long or elbow length as may be fash- 
ionable at the time. Gloves will, of course, meet 
short sleeves. The dress may shoAV a transparent 
yoke but a decollette effect will be in very bad 
taste. Hose and slippers will be white and very 
few jcAvels should be worn. As a rule only the 
gift of the groom is displayed upon such an occa- 
sion. The wedding veil will be a simple square 
of white tulle finished with a hem on all sides, 
and the wreath a spray of orange blossoms. The 
bouquet is composed ol white flowers. 

The maid of honor usually wears a pretty net 
or lace frock over a delicate color and a hat 
wreathed with roses, or any preferred trimming. 

The bridesmaids may all be gowned alike or 
they may be dressed in twos representing a rain- 
bow, two in yellow, two in blue, two in mauve, 
two in pale green, and two in pale pink. Let 
pink lead, followed by those in blue, next in order 
the yellows then the greens and lastly the 
mauves. Pale pink is not strictly a rainbow 
color of course, it should be either indigo or red. 
The last named color is, however, too harsh and 
violets do not show up Avell in artificial light, so 
I suggest pink. This bright coloring makes an 

178 



Wedding Etiquette. 

excellent setting for the pure white of the bride's 
toilet. Lingerie or straw shepherdess hats are 
always in good taste for head- wear, in fact, any- 
thing bordering on the picturesque may be at- 
tempted. 

Bridesmaids carry bouquets of colored flowers, 
usually pink roses, and wear as decorations the 
gift of the bride, supposing they can be worn. 
Their gloves should be white. Hose and slippers 
may match the color of the toilets or be entirely 
w^hite. 

Cost of Tkousseau. 

Supposing $100 must provide the trousseau 
I should apportion it thus : 

For wedding gown, 8 yards of ma- 
terial at $1.00 a yard f 8.00 

Lace for trimming 1.50 

Gloves for wedding 1.50 

Slippers 1.50 

Stockings 50 

Petticoat 3.00 

Making dress 10.00 

Separate wrap (material) 10.00 

Suit ready made 20.00 

Best hat 6.00 

Stiff ready to wear hat 3.00 

Gloves 1.00 

Silk for pretty blouse to wear with 

suit, 4 yards at 69c. a 3^ard. . . * 2.76 
Afternoon frock made at home. . 5.00 

179 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

18 yards of gingham for two work- 
ing dresses at 10c. a yard 1.80 

Shoes will cost inclusive 6.00 

Corsets fl.50 and |3.0O respec- 
tively 4.50 

Four pairs of stockings at 25c. 
per pair 1.00 

Four pairs of drawers at 50c per 
pair 2.00 

Four vests at 25c. each 1.00 

Four night dresses at 75c. each. . 3.00 

Material for short and long kim- 
onas 1.00 

Two corset covers at 50c. each, 
two at 25c. each 1.50 

Gingham for petticoats, 10 yards 
at 10c. a yard 1.00 

Moreen or brilliantine petticoat. 3.50 

This is by no means an elaborate wardrobe, of 
course, but the list includes every article that is 
necessary to meet the needs of the average busi- 
ness or home girl who is marrying. There will 
be, no doubt, half worn clothing that will be 
taken to the new home, for instance the tailored 
suit. This should not be discarded, it will come 
in for knockabout or bad weather wear and save 
the new suit for church, calling, matinee or in- 
formal affairs. The Avedding gown will be worn 
for evening receptions, concerts, etc., an impor- 
tant lunch or a formal tea. The skirt of the 
suit and a pretty silk blouse provides an ap- 
propriate toilet for receiving callers informally, 

ISO 



Wedding Etiquette. 

supposing weather conditions alloAv and the 
light afternoon frock will answer for general 
wear. The evening coat should be of light weight 
broadcloth if for winter wear and of pongee or 
rajah if for warm weather. So it can be clearly 
seen that a toilet is provided for every ordinary 
occasion. 

House Linen. 

The bride's mother usually presents the house 
linen, and a modest outfit will be four everyday 
table cloths and two of the better quality for 
company use. 

From two to three dozen napkins may be in- 
cluded, while in regard to sideboard or buffet 
covers, carving cloths and fancy linen doylies, a 
bride can never have too many. 

At least three pairs of sheets should be pro- 
vided for each bed if the linen is to give good 
service and six pillow slips will be none too 
many. One pair of woolen blankets and one pair 
of cotton and wool mixed are necessary. Two 
nice spreads for every bed complete the bed 
furnishings. Two dozen bedroom towels and one 
dozen bath towels are necessary, one dozen 
kitchen towels, six glass cloths, three roller 
towels, with pudding cloths, dusters and dish 
cloths will furnish the kitchen towel drawer. 

Marking. 

Sheets are marked in the middle of the upper 
edge about four inches from the hem. The 

181 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

pillowslips are lettered in about the same posi- 
tion and so are bedroom towels. 

Table and side board cloths are marked so 
that the letters appear at one corner resting on 
the table about three inches from its edge. 
Napkins have the monogram placed in one 
corner. 

Kitchen towels display a single letter worked 
in red at one corner, either the initial of the 
owner, or the department to which they belong, 
as dish, glass, dust and so on. 

Bride at Home. 

After the honey moon the bride announces by 
card that she is at home on the days specified or 
evenings as the case may be. 

Cards are sent to all those who attended the 
wedding and indeed to all those persons whom 
the bride desires to retain as acquaintances. 

The wedding frock will be worn and light re- 
freshments should be served. The bridesmaids 
will assist the newly made matron in her duties, 
making the guests feel at ease, introducing peo- 
ple when necessary, and performing any little 
acts of courtesy that lie in their power. 

Guests come and go at these informal affairs 
and are not expected to stay very long unless 
very intimately acquainted with the bride. Heavy 
wraps may be removed but hats and gloves are 
retained. 



182 



CHAPTER XIX. 
DRESS FOR THE SCHOOL GIRL. 

TORTUNATELY for those concerned — 
mother and daughter alike, and, inci- 
dently, observers as well — it is considered 
very bad taste now-a-days for a school girl to 
appear abroad elaborately dressed. 

This being the rule, not only are expenses 
lessened, also the trouble of planning the ward- 
robe for the mother, but there is far less of 
heart-burnings and longings on the part of the 
girl who cannot afford to dress herself as hand- 
somely as some of her companions compared with 
conditions existing a few years ago. At one time 
— quite within the memory of youthful matrons 
too — a girl whose parents were in modest cir- 
cumstances and who could only provide a simple 
wardrobe for her was apt to be subjected to un- 
kind criticism and sundry humiliations by those 
who were more bountifully provided with this 
world's goods during school life. 

But all this is changed and simplicity is the 
keynote of the up-to-date school girl's toilets of 
to-day, whether required for the school room, 
street, home or entertainments. Indeed, so much 
has taste improved that an overdressed school 
girl or debutante is really an exception. This is 
certainly well, for youth decked out as a dowager 
is not a pleasing sight. 

183 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

While it is acknowledged that the average 
girl with fresh face, sunny hair and youthful 
figure may choose almost any color and style and 
look well in it, still, it must not be forgO'tten that 
there are plain girls, sallow girls, and girls of a 
nondescript type as well as pretty ones, and 
awkward, lanky, or over-fat forms as well as 
graceful, symmetrical figures. Dress can do a 
very great deal toward disguising such imperfec- 
tions, and even a beauty may be improved upon 
or suffer according to the way she dresses. 

Becomingly gowned, her beauty is enhanced, 
while in the wrong frock she may lose half her 
charms. 

However, pretty girls can, as a rule, take care 
of themselves sartorially, so special attention 
will be given to those types, which, by reason of 
any deficiencies make a special demand for help. 

School Frocks. 

Beginning with the school toilet there is really 
no smarter or more practical dress than the 
Peter Thompson sailor suit made up with pleated 
skirt and loose, eas}^ blouse. 

At the same time this jaunty looking toilet is 
not becoming to every type of school girl. The 
too plump girl is apt to look sloppy about the 
waist line, while to a thin girl of the bean pole 
type this sagging fullness will be a charity. 

The blouse cannot be too broad and floppy to 
suit her. Again, not all figures alike can stand 
the long shoulder seam usually seen in the sailor 
suit. The tall, thin girl can, however, wear it 
any length she pleases. Still, with modification 

184 



Dress for The School Girl. 

even this model can be made to suit all but the 
exceptional figure. The decidedly fat girl, especi- 
ally if she is short as well, should never attempt 
the sailor suit, but the normal plump girl may 
wear it if she will bring the blouse into a belt 
instead of allowing it to fall loose. Then she 
must take care that the collar is not too wide 
at the back and that it finishes in very sharp 
points in the front; and that the chemisette 
suggests length rather than breadth. The shoul- 
der seam must not be too long or the wearer will 
appear to be too broad in proportion. 

Another style of school frock better suited to 
the plump girl is that known as the shirt waist 
suit. 

Beginning with the skirt, when pleats are 
worn, then it should show pleats in some form 
or another. A pleated skirt will give twice the 
service of a plain one for school-room wear. 

There should be a plain, narrow width down 
the front and the waist should be built on long 
lines. Tucks tapering from shoulders to belt 
are always becoming to this typa Unless the 
wearer is quite slender only a narrow belt should 
be worn and preferably of the goods. Leather or 
kid belts are good for school-room wear but an 
elaborate waist ribbon is entirely out of place 
there. A neat collar or a small chemisette will be 
a pretty finish at the neck. 

During cold weather a separate wrap is a 
necessity, and there is nothing better for all 
around wear than a long, semi-fitting tourist coat 
of mixed tweed, built on plainly tailored lines 

185 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

and furnished with commodious pockets. It 
should be fairly loose so that it may be con- 
veniently slipped off and on. 

The school hat should be substantial but at 
the same time becoming. There is one style of 
girl, notably she of saucy features and fluffy hair, 
that never looks more attractive than when she 
is crowned with a woolly Tam o' Slianter, but this 
kind of hat placed above a demure looking face 
will be more than trying. A girl of this type 
should choose head wear on a more conventional 
order. Probably a simple little sailor hat for 
school will suit her. 

The girl with a breezy manner will carry off 
a cowboy shape Avith flaring brim exceedingly 
well. In choosing a school hat simplicity and 
becomingness are the only requisites. 

The next on the list is the tailored suit that 
must come in for quite a number of occasions. 
This will be of serge or broadcloth, light or 
dark in color but of a shade becoming to the 
wearer. The plump girl will adopt long straight 
up and down lines and if she is short as well, 
care must be taken that these lines are allowed 
to remain unbroken. The tall, thin, angular girl 
will select her models on entirely opposite lines 
and will try to break her height as much as 
possible by horizontal effects and trimmings. 

In a work of this kind it is, of course, im- 
possible to suggest any definite style, those pre- 
vailing at the time, if not entirely becoming, 
will be in good taste if modified, as I suggested 
before, to suit the needs of the wearer. 

186 



Dress for The School Girl. 

The best hat should be chosen with the same 
discretion. Tall girls may indulge in large 
shapes, but shorter girls should wear brims no 
wider than medium. 

Suitable trimmings are ribbons, plumes, wings, 
flowers and velvet, the selection depending en- 
tirely upon the season, of course. 

For summer street wear there is nothing better 
than the skirt and coat suit of linen, white and a 
color being in equally good taste. A straw sailor 
hat goes well with such a costume. The suit of 
cream serge is always in good taste for street or 
day occasions, as calling or a matinee, worn with 
a hat to suit the time and function. Tan kid or 
Mocha gloves are correct for winter wear, silk 
and lisle thread for summer. Footwear should 
be stockings of lisle thread or cotton, and sub- 
stantial shoes, high or low cut depending upon 
weather conditions. 

Furs becoming to girls are squirrel, krimmer 
and blue and white fox. Extreme styles or sizes 
should be avoided. The same may be said of the 
sunshade or parasol. It may be as dainty as the 
wearer pleases, but never elaborate. 

Materials for simple house frocks are cotton 
voile, challi, henrietta, serge, poplin and cash- 
mere, chosen in becoming colors (see foregoing 
chapters when making a choice), and made up 
prettily and modishly. 

The tailored suit will answer for church, call- 
ing, matinee, lunch or tea, worn with the best hat 
and white gloves, and then there must be a smart 
practical frock that will be suitable for best 

187 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

afternoon, informal evening entertainments, and 
similar functions. A chiffon broadcloth or any 
light-weight fabric may be chosen for this, made 
up in the prevailing style. 

Then there is the party frock. While still a 
school girl she may, if she will, wear any of the 
girlish silks: net, lawn, organdy, voile, Swiss 
dotted or plain and point d'esprit. 

White is so generally becoming that one is apt 
to think that every girl can wear it successfully. 
True, most of them can, but there is a type to 
Avhom a color would be more becoming. 

There is the scrawny, sallow skinned, often 
plain faced girl to whom it would be no less than 
cruel to deck out in dainty, airy looking white 
fabrics belonging to the list of materials suitable 
for evening frocks. 

No matter how tempting the white may be it 
must be set aside in favor of something more 
striking, more suited to the needs of the wearer. 
A rich cardinal, a pale orange, or a pretty prim- 
rose yellow will be much more harmonious than 
white. 

Neither must she indulge in low necks or short 
sleeves. The average girl will become the Dutch 
neck and babyfied puff sleeves, but not so when 
there are prominent collar bones to be concealed, 
or a flat hollow chest to be reckoned with. A 
deep ivory-toned lace yoke topping a frock of 
rich, deep red will be found extremely becoming 
to the sallow-faced thin girl. 

Sleeves should always be long, picturesque if 
you will (such styles never go out of fashion), 

188 



Deess for The School Girl. 

but thin, ofteatimes red arms, must necessarily 
be covered in some form or fashion. 

Attention should be given to the coiffure of 
this type of girl. It is not kind to draw atten- 
tion to a plain face by decking the head with 
dainty, fresh-looking ribbon garnitures. The hair 
should be dressed as smartly as possible, and by 
way of ornaments use the dull gold filet bands, 
a few pretty pins, or a bow of rich, dark colored 
velvet, setting in as found becoming to the 
wearer. 

An evening wrap of some description is a 
necessity. Broadcloth is a desirable material 
for the purpose, and loose graceful lines should 
be carried out in the development. 

White gloves, dainty hose and slippers, pretty 
fans, scarfs and belts will all be included in a 
girPs wardrobe. Veils will not be required, un- 
less, perhaps, a chiffon protection. 

A school girl's lingerie should be of good qual- 
ity and daintily made, but there should be an 
absence of all fussiness and over-abundance of 
trimming. She may wear pretty white petti- 
coats, during the summer, with fine chambray 
for mornings. 

An underskirt of mohair or moreen should be 
provided for colder weather, and, if her purse 
will allow, a silk petticoat may be added to the 
list. 

Bloomers are most comfortable, as well as 
convenient, taking the place of any underskirt; 
and may be made from sateen, nun's veiling, 
silk or albatross. 

189 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

It is sometimes puzzling to mothers who are 
sending their daughters away to school for the 
first time to know just how to prepare a suitable 
wardrobe. 

Some schools furnish a list of what is required, 
and, of course, this is a help. Very often the 
girls are asked to wear a uniform during school 
hours. This is a simple one-piece frock of black 
serge relieved at neck and wrists with white. 
When a uniform is not demanded then a couple 
of school frocks will be necessary ; the same num- 
ber of dresses for afternoon, a nice skirt and 
some pretty blouses, a street suit, a best dress 
and a dancing frock. Then there will be a rain 
or storm coat, a wrap for evenings, two hats at 
least, six pairs of gloves, three pairs of shoes, two 
high and one pair of oxfords, patent leather 
pumps and a pair of kid slippers. A woolen 
bath robe will be provided, and a pretty loung- 
ing gown will be found a comfort quite often. 
A couple of short kimonas that will stand a tub- 
bing is a necessity, and white will be the better 
choice when selecting the material for them. 
Delicate colors will not stand the average laun- 
dry ing, and dark fabrics for combing jackets, 
etc., are not to be recommended. 

Tlie list of accessories, as collars, belts and 
ribbons, may only be limited to the depth of the 
purse, for girls never seem to have too many of 
these dainty trifles. 

The underwear should consist of six pieces of 
each article. Girls grow so fast, that this num- 
ber will last as long as it is large enough to be 

190 



Dress for The School Girl. 

worn. The plainer the trimming, the better, 
unless the owner is fond of mending, for the 
average laundress is none too careful. 

In addition to six pairs of stockings for gen- 
eral wear, there should be two or three pairs of 
a daintier character for best. 

Two pairs of corsets will be sufiacient, and two 
dark petticoats should be included when entering 
upon the winter term. 

It is a mistake to have too many dresses for 
they cannot be worn out if too many changes are 
provided, and consequently it often happens that 
they must be brought back to school again, and 
this girls generally dislike doing, preferring to 
display new toilets the following term. 

And, in speaking of displaying, I should like 
to warn the girl going to school for the first time 
not to show off all her pretty possessions at 
once. As a rule she is so anxious to have them 
admired that she will make a different toilet 
every day. But this is a mistake. She must 
wait. I have known cases where girls not being 
wise, have run through their entire list of pretty 
things in a week, while more sensible girls will 
spring surprises during the entire term, in the 
way of some fresh accessory, or perhaps a dainty 
blouse seeing the light for the first time. Again, 
it may be only a set of ribbons, or a pair of new 
rosettes for slippers kept in reserve till occasion 
required. Then the girl who has been too hasty 
in parading her frocks will be apt to feel a little 
chagrined and perhaps humiliated. 

When attending boarding school for the first 

191 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

time, girls will do well to take particular notice 
of what is done by pupils who have been longer 
in school rather than follow their own inclin- 
ations. By doing so they will seldom go wrong. 

The correct length of skirts is often a puzzling 
question to girls over fourteen. As young people 
vary so much in height and build it is impossible 
to lay down any hard and fast rule, but the fol- 
lowing will apply to girls in general. 

When the wearer is very tall for her age, the 
skirts may be as short as modesty will allow. 
On the contrary, the girl who is short for her age, 
should wear them as long as is consistent with 
good taste. 

Very fat legs, also those unduly thin, should 
be covered with the skirts more fully than in the 
case of limbs of normal proportions. 



1U2 



CHAPTER XX. 
RULES FOR CORRECT MOURNING. 

TTIhILE it must be acknowledged that the 
^^ ■ rules in regard to mourning are far 
^^^ more lax than formerly, still the con- 
ventionalities are still observed, if not quite 
so rigidly — except perhaps by the very few 
— and the question of correct apparel to suit 
the occasion is more or less a difficult one 
to the average woman when brought to face 
it suddenly, as is usually the case and always 
at a time when the mind is not in a condi- 
tion to discuss matters sartorial. Consequently, 
mistakes in selections are often the result, and 
the mourner has either to endure the mortifica- 
tion of feeling herself incorrectly gowned or 
make new purchases. As mourning fabrics are 
always more costly than colors, a second pur- 
chase is often out of the question, therefore, I 
hope within the pages of this chapter to cover 
every detail of the mourning wardrobe in such a 
plain and direct way that any woman in time 
of sorrow may — ^and with confidence — turn to 
them and find there the help and assistance she 
needs with as little effort as possible. 

The Widow. 

To begin — it goes without saying that the 
deepest mourning is worn by a widow. She will 

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Talks on Successful (jOwnin(J. 

be expected to wear crepe for at least six montlis. 
This means crepe trimmings for gowns or wraps, 
for the covering of hats or bonnets and for the 
veil. The last named may not necessarily be 
worn over the face unless the wearer so desires. 
It will be quite correct to drape it over the bon- 
net, falling in folds down the back, adding a 
short face veil of black net bordered with a 
crepe fold. 

The conventional toilet to be worn by the 
widow during the first six months of mourning 
consists of a gown of dull, black soft woolen 
material as crepe cloth, armure, henrietta and 
cashmere. This list, however, does not include 
all mourning fabrics, for new weaves are con- 
stantly being added. 

The skirt will be trimmed with crepe in a fold 
knee depth or bands in a narrower width. No 
other form of application will be in good taste, 
such as shirring or a fussy design. 

The waist will be simply fashioned and may 
be almost covered with crepe. The neck band is 
finished with a narrow turnover folded lawn 
collar. A small, dull, jet brooch is admissible, 
also a jet watch chain, and, if necessary, a black 
belt buckle, but, aside from these articles jewelry 
should not be worn, excepting the wedding ring, 
of course. A widoAV wears long sleeves in her 
dresses, white lawn bands buttoning at the 
wrists. 

For street wear a walking suit of dull cheviot 
will be correct, if the widow is still youthful, 
together with a hat of crepe draped with a veil 

194 



Rules for Correct Mourning. 

of the same fabric and a short net face veil 
edged with a deep band of crepe. Suede gloves 
and dull black kid shoes will complete her toilet. 
In the case of a middle-aged or elderly woman 
she will wear a plainly tailored suit of dull black 
broadcloth, a small bonnet showing a strip of 
white resting upon the hair, the back draped 
with a crepe veil. If preferred the long veil may 
be worn over the face for a short time after don- 
ning mourning. This is a matter that may be 
governed entirely by one's feelings. When the 
veil falls over the back of the bonnet a short face 
veil is, of course, necessary. This may be of net 
or grenadine edged with a fold of crepe. 

When it is desired to go to the extreme in 
mourning, the widow's veil may reach to the 
knees in front while a second — also of crepe — 
may be draped over the bonnet falling to the 
waist line in the back. 

Dresses for house wear may be lavishly trimmed 
with crepe, providing straight, flat lines are ad- 
hered to, as folds, either in horizontal or perpen- 
dicular effects, as considered becoming to the 
wearer. A cap is seldom seen now-a-days. When 
worn, however, it is composed of white lisse and 
crepe, and, on the whole, may be described as a 
coquettish bit of head-wear. 

Dinner gowns will be of dull voile relieved with 
a transparent yoke of black mousseline de soie. 
The sleeves will be long, regardless of any pre- 
vailing fashion, and wliite should be entirely 
dispensed with in this toilet. 

After a period of six months a widow may dis- 

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Talks on Successful Gowning. 

card crepe if she chooses. Twelve months, how- 
ever, is the conventional length of time for wear- 
ing crepe. 

She may now wear mourning silks, as dull 
India weaves, dull chiffon broadcloths, Panama, 
and similar mourning fabrics. Gowns should be 
self-trimmed only and preferably with folds. The 
white lawn bands may now be hemmed instead 
of just folded on the edges, and the crepe veil will 
be replaced by one of grenadine or Brussels net 
finished with a band of crepe. 

Crepe de chine may be responsible for dinner 
gowns or house frocks made on simple lines and 
only slightly trimmed. 

Dull finished voile or Panama will be a good 
choice for afternoon gowns, the selection depend- 
ing upon the time of year. 

The street suit may be of broadcloth, dull 
chiffon taffeta or henrietta, depending upon the 
season. A plain morning dress of black India silk 
relieved by the white lawn bands will be charm- 
ing for summer wear and if the bonnet and long 
veil are considered too warm a flat, fairly wide- 
brimmed hat made of dull silk and trimmed with 
net edged with crepe may be adopted. 

After the first year of mourning, a widow wears 
plain black for the next nine months. AVhile the 
fabrics will be preferably dull, relief may be 
given with trimmings of a glossy nature, as silk, 
ribbon and silky braid. She will wear a black 
hat, but it may be trimmed with black wings or 
mourning flowers. If a veil is worn at all, it 
should be of Brussels net or any plain weave, 
but a dotted veil will not be in good taste. 

196 



Rules for Correct Mourning. 

The last three months half mourning is worn. 
The costume may be in black and white, gray, 
gray and black combined or all white. 

In the case of the last named the accessories 
may be black, differing from the white toilet that 
is preferred by some persons to black for very 
deep mourning. After wearing mourning for a 
period of two years a widow may resume colors. 

Son or Daughter. 

A mother mourning a son or a daughter will, 
if following strictly conventional rules, wear 
crepe for six months, plain black for three months 
and half mourning for three. In many cases 
crepe is not worn at all, a most sensible plan 
when there are young children in the family. It 
is not kind to them to let them see mother clad 
in crepe and looking so sombre. Indeed, if she 
could bring herself to do so, it would be very 
much nicer to wear white instead. ^Yh.en this is 
impracticable, she could com^^romise by cutting 
out the necks of her black frocks, filling in with 
tucked mousseline de soie. White or black lace 
is of course out of the question, but plain black 
net, chiffon and mousseline de soie are all per- 
fectly correct by Avay of relief, whether white or 
black. 

Parents. 

A daughter mourning a parent wears crepe for 
six months, black for three months and half 
mourning for three. After the first three months 
she may discard the face veil she wears if she 

197 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

wishes and substitute any ordinary net, provided 
it is without dots. 

Linen collars may be worn but not those em- 
broidered or lace trimmed, and for morning wear 
plain white lawn blouses finished with tie and 
belt of black may be worn with a black skirt after 
the first six months without provoking comment, 
especially when the weather is warm. Voile, hen- 
rietta and Panama are suitable materials for 
afternoon frocks and simple evening dresses may 
be of plain Brussels net, India silk, crepe de chine 
and fabrics of like nature. 

Net, chiffon or mousseline de sole, either white 
or black, may be used for relieving gowns of 
sombre materials. 

A sister mourning for a brother or a sister 
wears crepe for three months, plain black for 
three months and half mourning for two months. 
After that period colors may be resumed. 

Headwear. 

Only a widow wears a bonnet, except in the 
case of a very old lady, who would wear a bonnet 
any way were she not in mourning. All other 
women wear hats. Still there are certain rules 
in regard to shape, materials, etc., that must be 
observed. Needless to say that nothing approach- 
ing the "picture" hat is appropriate. Round 
hats and sailor shapes are suitable and correct 
for young women's wear, older ones will wear 
medium sized hats, toques and turbans, choosing 
the model for its becomingness. Dull black chip, 
dull silk, net and chiffon-covered hats are alike in 
good taste; while correct fabrics for trimmings 

198 



Rules for Correct Mourning. 

are dull weaves of ribbon, black flowers (no 
yellow or white centres), birds, net, wings, and 
crepe. Some authorities claim that ostrich feathers 
may be included in the list of mourning millinery, 
but, to my thinking they are not in good taste. 
Other trimmings that are excluded are velvet, 
satin, satin ribbon, lace, also stripes or dots in 
either silk or ribbon. The weave must be per- 
fectly plain. 

Jewelry. 

Jewelry worn to any extent while in mourning 
is not in good taste. An engagement ring will, 
of course, not be removed from the finger and 
any rings set with pearls, the mountings gold, 
will be entirely unobjectionable. The same rule 
will apply to plain gold rings. Those, however, 
that are mounted with colored stones should be 
locked away for a time. There is no reason why 
advantage may not be taken of the beautiful jet 
jewelry lately introduced, and some of it made 
use of as decoration, not profusely, of course, but 
small earrings, a medium-sized brooch, a necklet, 
watch chain and belt buckle may all be worn at 
the same time when the mourning begins to be 
lightened. 

Jet combs must be used, if any, in the hair, and 
black ball hairpins are exceedingly effective as 
well as correct. 

A set of black studs should be worn in a white 
shirt waist for half mourning and dull black jet 
buckles will decorate the toes of dull kid slippers 
for evening wear. 

X99 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

Hat pins in dull and cut jet are to be had for 
securing mourning hats. There are als^ very 
beautiful black bracelets, but these had better be 
reserved until the later stages of mourning. 

Accessories. 

Coming to the question of accessories it is 
generally agreed that handsome furs, regardless 
of color, may be considered mourning, except in 
the case of a widow. She must adopt black furs 
or else dispense with them altogether. Dark 
brown furs, as dyed fox, marten and mink, are 
correct for general mourning. Gray furs, as 
squirrel and chinchilla, may be donned with a 
plain mourning costume but not with one crepe- 
trimmed. Persian lamb or black fox, lynx, etc., 
should be chosen for very deep mourning. 

A boa of silk chiffon or plain net are correct, 
and many people believe ostrich feather boas may 
also be included. In my opinion, however, mar- 
abou as a substitute will be in better taste. The 
kind of veils that are considered correct have 
already been mentioned and as an extra precau- 
tion I should like to advise against the use of 
collars, cuffs, yokes and fichus of lace, whether 
in black or white. Lace can never be regarded as 
mourning and neither can velvet. A gown may 
be trimmed with rows of ribbon but not with 
velvet. 

Black gloves will be worn unless the toilet is 
entirely white, when, of course, the gloves will be 
white. Shoes should be of dull finished black kid, 
when in first mourning. Gun metal may be worn 
when in half mourning. 

200 



Rules for Correct Mourning. 

Belts will either be of the dress material or else 
of dull kid, or ribbon without gloss. Plain black 
elastic belting closing with a dull jet buckle is 
also admissible. 

Hose will, of course, be black and the handker- 
chief will show a black border the width of which 
will be reduced as the mourning stage advances. 
Embroidery and in fact any decoration should be 
entirely absent from the mourning handkerchief. 

Parasols and umbrellas will be of perfectly 
plain black silk. The hand-bag should be of dull 
black leather mounted in black or gun metal, and 
the pocket book should correspond. If liked, 
these necessities may be entirely in gun metal 
shades. The fan, including mountings, should be 
black and preferably quite plain. 

Ties should be either all white or all black, and 
collars should be of lawn, handkerchief linen or 
the stiff linen collar according to the period of the 
mourning and the occasion. 

Black-bordered cards will be used until mourn- 
ing is entirely discarded. When crepe is set aside 
then the "Italian'' width of black edge will be 
correct ; and when half mourning begins the line 
of black will be the very narrowest, scarcely more 
than a hair's breadth. 

Evening dress has only received a passing men- 
tion, for obvious reasons. Persons in mourning 
do not receive formally, neither do they accept in- 
vitations w^liile wearing crepe except in the case 
of near relatives. These dine with and entertain 
each other in a quiet way. A widow is not seen 
at public affairs for at least a year. After that 

201 



Talks on Successful Gowning. 

period there is no reason why an informal after- 
noon function, a concert (evening) or a matinee 
may not be attended. 

After the death of a x)arent a 3'Oung woman 
may accept invitations for simple functions, con- 
certs, quiet games or even athletic sports at the 
end of six months if she feels so disposed. Dinner 
parties may be attended when wearing half 
mourning, and a gown of all white or transparent 
black will suggest mourning better than a com- 
bination of the two tones. A girl or young 
matron may appear in a simple frock of white 
crepe with trimmings of narrow white ribbon 
and net or faggoting, wearing white hose and slip- 
pers, white gloves and fan of the same hue. 

An older woman may wish to wear a gown of 
black net, or, if something more important is 
desired, it may be of rich silk relieved with tucker 
or yoke of tucked mousseline de soie, which in 
this case may be white on account of the dress 
material being so heavy. She will add a stiff 
aigrette, white or black, to her coiffure, wear 
black silk hose and slippers and carry a black 
fan. Her gloves, however, will be white. 

The wrap for evening wear should be of black 
broadcloth, trimmed with dull black silk or fur 
suiting weather conditions, and be lined with 
white. The handkerchief may be pure white 
finished on the edges with a narrow hemstitching. 
Some persons prefer the narrow black border, 
but, to my thinking, the use of the all white 
suggests superior taste. It is not kind to others 
to bring any emblem of mourning into public 
notice unnecessarily. 

202 



Rules for Correct Mourning. 

Mourning garments for girls who are still in 
the schoolroom should be of the most simple 
character. Crepe will not be worn at all, and 
for street wear a suit of dull cheviot or any dull 
cloth that will be seasonable will be quite correct. 
For first mourning there Avill be an absence of 
trimming save for tailor stitchings. Afterwards 
braid and silk facings may be employed as a 
relief. 

School frocks will be of black serge and house 
gowns may be developed from Panama, henrietta, 
any of the crepy goods, and voile, relieved with 
white about the throat. 

Plain white linen collars finished with a black 
tie will be correct for morning wear, and simple 
tuckers of net or chiffon will complete afternoon 
toilets. Plain white turn-over collars may be 
worn but not those embroidered. 

For general wear a black felt hat trimmed with 
dull black taffeta will be both correct and prac- 
tical, while for better wear the hat may be cov- 
ered with silk and be trimmed with mourning 
flowers or wings as preferred. 

Gloves are black, of course, and footwear will 
be of the same hue in a dull finish. Patent 
leather is not in good taste for mourning. 

Girls of this age should not be debarred from all 
pleasures. They may attend school friends' homes 
at informal gatherings which include others of 
the same years and receive them occasionally 
also. After three months they may be seen at a 
matinee now and then or any other place (except 

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Talks on Successful Gowning. 

a dance) frequented by school girls. When a 
girl is out, even though she be no older thaa the 
one still in the schoolroom, she is expected to 
observe more closely the rules of conventional 
mourning, and will not be seen (except in a very 
quiet way) to any extent until after six months 
of mourning. 

Only the barest amount of jewelry may be 
worn by the school girl, and when a veil is worn 
it will be of plain black chiffon and be for pro- 
tection only — not effect. Handkerchiefs may 
show a thin line of black, at first, afterwards a 
plain white hemstitched mouchoir may be carried 
even before mourning is discarded. 

Girls under twelve 3'ears of age are seldom put 
into mourning at all, except in the case of the 
loss of a parent, and then just simple black gar- 
ments are provided, or, as some people prefer, 
entirely white toilets. In summer the dresses 
will be of fine plain white lawn untrimmed save 
for tucks for afternoon wear, heavier plain linen 
or cotton for mornings and white wash silk or 
any of the crepy goods for best. 

A lingerie hat fashioned from lawn frills may 
be worn and a white chip trimmed with dead 
white ribbon will be in good taste for better 
wear. 

For winter wear tliere is white serge (which 
must be white, not cream) and a white felt hat. 
Little house frocks can be made from white 
wool batiste, henrietta, cashmere and like ma- 
terials. 

When black is worn the guimpe model is per- 

.204 



Rules for Correct Mourning. 

haps the best to adopt because then yoke and 
sleeves may be of white lawn. Tucks, as a decora- 
tion, are allowable, but there must be neither 
lace nor embroidery in evidence. No child should 
be put into solid black unrelieved by white. 

Of course, these little people may take part in 
any childish affairs after the first few weeks of 
mourning, exception being made to a children's 
ball or masquerade. At the same time, there are 
some who think even these festivities should not 
be denied those of an age of whom it cannot be 
expected to have a knowledge of mourning be- 
yond the outward and visible sign. 



205 



